f^asl^et 


Of  all    i 


HANDICRAFT  SERIES. 

A  Series  of  Practical  Manuals. 

Edited    by    PAUL    N.    HASLUCK,    Editor    of   "Work." 
Price  56cts.  each,  post  paid. 

House     Decoration.      Comprising    WHITEWASHING,     PAPERHANGING, 

PAINTING,  etc.     With  79  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.— Colour  and  Paints.    Pigments,  Oils,  Driers,  Varnishes,  etc.   Tools 
used  by  Painters.     How  to  Mix  Oil  Paints.     Distemper  or  Tempera  Painting. 
Whitewashing  and  Decorating  a  Ceiling.    Painting  a  Room.    Papering  a  Room. 
Embellishment  of  Walls  and  Ceilings. 
Boot  Making  and  Mending.     Including  REPAIRING,  LASTING,  and 

FINISHING.    With  179  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.—  Repairing  Heels  and  Half-Soling.     Patching  Boots  and  Shoes. 
Re- Welting  and  Re-Soling.     Boot  Making.     Lasting  the  Upper.      Sewing  and 
Stitching.     Making  the  Heel.     Knifing  and  Finishing.     Making  Riveted  Boots 
and  Shoes. 
Mow  to  Write  Signs,  Tickets,  and  Posters.     With  170  Engravings 

and  Diagrams. 

Contents.— The  Formation  of  Letters,  Stops,  and    Numerals.      Ihe    Sign- 
writer's  Outfit.    Making  Signbaards  and  Laying  Ground  Colours.    The  .Simpler 
Forms  of   Lettering.      Shaded  and  Fancy  Lettering.     Painting  a  Signboard. 
Ticket-Writing.     Poster-  Painting.     Lettering  with  Gold,  etc. 
Wood   Finishing:.    Comprising  STAINING,  VARNISHING,  and  POLISHING. 

With  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Processes  of  Finishing  Wood.  Processes  of  Staining  Wood. 
French  Polishing.  Fillers  for  Wood  and  Filling  In.  Bodying  In  and  Spiriting 
Off.  Glazing  and  Wax  Finishing.  Oil  Polishing  and  Dry  Shining.  Re-polishing 
and  Reviving.  Hard  Stopping  or  Beaumontage.  Treatment  of  Floors  Stains. 
Processes  of  Vanishing  Wood  Varnishes.  Re-polishing  Shop  Fronts. 
Dynamos  and  Electric  Motors.  With  142  Engravings  and  Diagrams 
Contents. — Introduction.  Siemens  Dynamo.  Gramme  Dynamo.  Manchester 
Dynamo.  Simplex  Dynamo.  Calculating  the  Size  and  Amount  of  Wire  for 
Small  Dynamos.  Ailments  of  Small  Dynamo  Electric  Machines  :  their  Causes 
and  Cures.  Small  Electro-motors  without  Castings.  How  to  Determine  the 
Direction  of  Rotation  of  a  Motor.  How  to  Make  a  Shutt'e-Armature  Motor. 
Undertype  50- Watt  Dynamo.  Manchester  Type  440- Watt  Dynamo. 
Cycle  Building  and  Repairing.  With  142  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 
Contents.-- Introductory,  and  Tools  Used.  How  to  Build  a  Front  Driver. 
Building  a  Rear-driving  Safety.  Building  Tandem  Safeties.  Building  Front- 
driver  Tricycle.  Building  a  Hand  Tricycle.  Brazing.  How  to  Make  and  Fit 
Gear  Cases.  Fittings  and  Accessories.  Wheel  Making.  Tyres  and  Methods 
of  Fixing  them.  Enamelling.  Repairing. 
Decorative  Designs  of  All  Ages  for  All  Purposes.  With  277 

Engravings  and  Diagrams. ' 

Conttnls. — Savage  Ornament.  Egyptian  Ornament.  Assyrian  Ornament. 
Greek  Ornament.  Roman  Ornament.  Early  Christian  Ornament.  Arabic 
Ornament.  Celtic  and  Scandinavian  Ornaments.  Mediaeval  Ornament. 
Renascence  and  Modern  Ornaments.  Chinese  Ornament.  Persian  Ornament. 
Indian  Ornament.  Japanese  Ornament. 
Mounting  and  framing  Pictures.  With  240  Engravings,  etc. 

Contents. — Making  Picture  Frames.     Notes  on  Art  Frames.     Picture  Frame 
Cramps.      Making   Oxford    Frames.     Gilding    Picture    Frames.     Methods   of 
Mounting  Pictures.     Making  Photograph  Frames.     Frames  covered  with  Plush 
and  Cork.     Hanging  and  Packing  Pictures. 
Smiths'  Work.    With  211  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.  —  Forges  and  Appliances.  Hand  Tools.  Drawing  Down  and  Up- 
setting Welding  and  Punching.  Conditions  of  Work  :  Principles  of  Forma- 
tion, lit.idin^  and  Ring  Making.  Miscellaneous  Examples  of  Forged  Work. 
Cranks,  Model  Work,  and  Die  Forging.  Home-made  Forges.  The  Manipula- 
tion of  Steel  at  the  Forge.  (Continued  on  next  paee.) 

DAVID  McKAY,  Publisher,  604-608  South  Washington  Square,  Philadelphia. 


HANDICRAFT  SERIES   (continued). 

Glass  Working  by  Heat  and  Abrasion.  With  300  Engravings 
and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Appliances  used  in  Glass  Blowing.  Manipulating  Glass  Tubing. 
Blowing  Bulbs  and  Flasks.  Jointing  Tubes  to  Bulbs  forming  Thistle  Funnels, 
etc.  Blowing  and  Etching  Glass  Fancy  Articles  ;  Embossing  and  Gilding  Flat 
Surfaces.  Utilising  Broken  Glass  Apparatus  ;  Boring  Holes  in,  and  Riveting 
Glass.  Hand-working  of  Telescope  Specula.  Turning,  Chipping,  and  Grinding 
Glass.  The  Manufacture  of  Glass. 
Building  Model  Boats.  With  168  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.  —  Building  Model  Yachts.  Rigging  and  Sailing  Model  Yachts. 
Making  and  Fitting  Simple  Model  Boats.  Building  a  Model  Atlantic  Liner. 
Vertical  Engine  for  a  Model  Launch.  Model  Launch  Engine  with  Reversing 
Gear.  Making  a  Show  Case  for  a  Model  Boat. 

Electric  Bells,  How  to  Make  and  Fit  Them.  With  162  En. 
gravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — The  Electr  c  Current  and  the  Laws  that  Govern  it.  Current 
Conductors  used  in  Electric-Bell  Work.  Wiring  for  Electric  Bells.  Elaborated 
Systems  of  Wiring  ;  Burglar  Alarms.  Batteries  for  Electric  Bells.  The  Con- 
struction of  Electric  Bells,  Pushes,  and  Switches.  Indicators  for  Electric- Bell 
Systems. 
Bamboo  Work.  With  177  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Bamboo  I  Its  Sources  and  Uses.  How  to  Work  Bamboo.  Bamboo 
Table?.  Bamboo  Chairs  and  Seats.  Bamboo  Bedroom  Furniture.  Bamboo 
Hall  Racks  and  Stands.  Bamboo  Music  Racks.  Bamboo  Cabinets  and  Book- 
cases. Bamboo  Window  Blinds.  Miscellaneous  Ankles  of  Bamboo.  Bamboo 
Mail  Cart. 
Taxidermy.  With  108  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Skinning  Birds.  Staffing  and  Mounting  Birds.  Skinning  and 
Stuffing  Mammals.  Mounting  Animals'  Horned  Heads  :  Polishing  and  Mount- 
ing Horns.  Skinning,  Stuffing,  and  Casting^  Fish.  Pieserving,  Cleaning,  and 
Dyeing  Skins.  Preserving  Insects,  and  Birds'  Eggs.  Cases  for  Mounting 
Specimens. 
Tailoring.  With  180  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Tailors'  Requisites  and   Methods  of  Stitching.     Simple  Repairs 
and   Pressing.      Relining,   Repocketing,  and  Recollaring.      How  to  Cut  and 
Make  Trousers.     How  to  Cut  and  Make  Vests.      Cutting  and  Making  Lounge 
and  Reefer  Jackets.     Cutting  and  Making  Morning  and  Frock  Coats. 
Photographic  Cameras  and  Accessories.    Comprising  How  TO 
MAKE  CAMERAS,   DARK   SLIDES,   SHUTTERS,   and  STANDS.     With  160 
Illustrations. 

Contents. — Photographic  Lenses  and  How  to  Test  them.  Modern  Half-plate 
Cameras.  Hand  and  Pocket  Cameras.  Ferrotype  Cameras.  Stereoscopic 
Cameras.  Enlarging  Cameras.  Dark  Slides.  Cinematograph  Management. 

Optical  Lanterns.  Comprising  THE  CONSTRUCTION  AND  MANAGEMENT 
OR  OPTICAL  LANTERNS  AND  THE  MAKING  OF  SLIDES.  With  160 
Illustrations. 

Contents. — Single  Lanterns.  Dissolving  View  Lanterns.  Illuminant  for 
Optical  Lanterns.  Optical  Lantern  Accessories.  Conducting  a  Limelight 
Lantern  Exhibition.  Experiments  with  Optical  Lanterns.  Painting  Lantern 
Slides.  Photographic  Lantern  Slides.  Mechanical  Lantern  Slides.  Cinemato- 
graph Management. 

Engraving  Metals.     With  Numerous  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Introduction  and  Terms  used.  Engravers'  Tools  and  their  Uses. 
Elementary  Exercises  in  Engraving.  Engraving  Plate  and  Precious  Metals. 
Engraving  Monograms.  Transfer  Processes  of  Engraving  Metals.  Engraving 
Name  Plates.  Engraving  Coffin  Plates.  Engraving  Steel  Plates.  Chasing 
and  Embossing  Metals.  Etching  Metals. 

Basket  Work.     With  189  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Tools  and  Materials.  Simple  Baskets.  Grocer's  Square  Baskets. 
Round  Baskets.  Oval  Baskets.  Flat  Fruit  Baskets.  Wicker  Elbow  Chairs. 
Baskf  oottle-casings.  Doctors'  and  Chemists'  Baskets.  Fancy  Basket  Work. 
Sussex  'f  rug  Basket.  Miscellaneous  Basket  Work.  Index 

DAVID  McKAY,  Publisher,  604-608  South  Washington  Square,  Philadelphia. 


HANDICRAFT  SERIES   (continued). 

Bookbinding.     With  125  Engravings  and  Diagrams 

Contents.— Bookbinders'  Appliances.  Folding  Printed  Book  Sheets.  Beat- 
ing and  Sewing.  Rounding,  Backing,  and  Cover  Cutting.  Cutting  Book  Edges. 
Covering  Books.  Cloth-bound  Books,  Pamphlets,  etc.  Account  Books, 
Ledgers,  etc.  Coloring,  Sprinkling,  and  Marbling  Book  Edges.  Marbling 
Book  Papers.  Gilding  Book  Edges.  Sprinkling  and  Tree  Marbling  Book 
Covers.  Lettering,  Gilding,  and  Finishing  Book  Covers.  Index. 
Bent  Iron  Work.  Including  ELEMENTARY  ART  METAL  WORK.  With 
269  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Tools  and  Materials.  Bending  and  Working  Strip  Iron.  Simple 
Exercises  in  Bent  Iron.  Floral  Ornaments  for  Bent  Iron  Work.  Candlesticks. 
Hall  Lanterns.  Screens,  Grilles,  etc.  Table  Lamps.  Suspended  Lamps  and 
Flower  Bowls.  Photograph  Frames.  Newspaper  Rack.  Floor  Lamps. 
Miscellaneous  Examples.  Index. 

Photography.     With  70  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — The  Camera  and  its  Accessories.  The  Studio  and  Darkroom. 
Plates.  Exposure.  Developing  and  Fixing  Negatives.  Intensification  and 
Reduction  of  Negatives.  Portraiture  and  Picture  Composition.  Flashlight 
Photography.  Retouching  Negatives.  Processes  of  Printing  from  Negatives. 
Mounting  and  Finishing  Prints.  Copying  and  Enlarging.  Stereoscopic 
Photography.  Ferrotype  Photography.  Index. 

Upholstery.    With  162  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.— Upholsterers'  Materials.  Upholsterers'  Tools  and  Appliances. 
Webbing,  Springing,  Stuffing,  and  Tufting.  Making  Seat  Cushions  and  Squabs. 
Upholstering  an  Easy  Chair.  Upholstering  Couches  and  Sofas.  Upholstering 
Footstools,  Fenderettes,  etc.  Miscellaneous  Upholstery.  Mattress  Making 
and  Repairing.  Fancy  Upholstery.  Renovating  and  Repairing  Upholstered 
Furniture.  Planning  and  Laying  Carpets  and  Linoleum.  Index. 

Leather   Working.    With  152  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.— Qualities  and  Varieties  of  Leather.  Strap  Cutting  and  Making. 
Letter  Cases  and  Writing  Pads.  Hair  Brush  and  Collar  Cases.  Hat  Cases. 
Banjo  and  Mandoline  Cases.  Bags.  Portmanteaux  and  Travelling  Trunks. 
Knapsacks  and  Satchels.  Leather  Ornamentation.  Footballs.  Dyeing 
Leather.  Miscellaneous  Examples  of  Leather  Work.  Index. 

Harness    Making.     With  197  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.— Harness  Makers'  Tools.  Harness  Makers'  Materials.  Simple 
Exercises  in  Stitching.  Looping.  Cart  Harness.  Cart  Collars.  Cart  Saddles. 
Fore  Gear  and  Leader  Harness.  Plough  Harness.  Bits,  Spurs,  Stirrups,  and 
Harness  Furniture.  Van  and  Cab  Harness.  Index. 

Saddlery.     With  99  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.—  Gentleman's  Riding  Saddle.  Panel  for  Gentleman's  Saddle 
Ladies' Side  Saddles.  Children's  Saddles  or  Pilches.  Saddle  Cruppers  Breast- 
PUtes,  and  other  Accessories.  Riding  Bridles.  Breaking-down  Tackle  Head 
.ollars.  Horse  Clothing.  Knee-caps  and  Miscellaneous  Articles.  Repairing 
«/aJ.ne"  o  Sadd'erV-  Re-lining  Collars  and  Saddles.  Riding  and  Driving 
Whips.  Superior  Set  of  Gig  Harness.  Index. 

Knotting  and  Splicing,  Ropes  and  Cordage.    With  208 

Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents.— Introduction.  Rope  Formation.  Simple  and  Useful  Knots 
Eye  Knots,  Hitches  and  Bends.  Ring  Knots  and  Rope  Shortenings.  Ties 
and  Lashings.  Fancy  Knots.  Rope  Splicing.  Working  Cordage.  Ham- 
mock Making  Lashings  and  Ties  for  Scaffolding.  Splicing  and  Socketing 
Wire  Ropes.  Index. 

Beehives  and  Beekeepers'  Appliances.    With  i55  Engravings 

and  Diagrams. 

Contents.— Introduction.  A  Bar-Frame  Beehive.  Temporary  Beehive 
Tiering  Bar-Frame  Beehive.  The  ••  W.  B.  C."  Beehive  PSshing  and 
Stockmg  a  Beehive.  Observatory  Beehive  for  Permanent  Use.  Observatory 
Bee.iive  for  Temporary  Use  Inspection  Case  for  Beehives.  Hive  for  Rear- 
ing  Queen  Bees  Super-Uearers.  Bee  Smoker.  Honey  Extractors.  Wax 
Extractors.  Beekeepers'  Miscellaneous  Appliances.  Index. 

DAVID  McKAY,  Publisher,  604-608  South  Washington  Square,  Philadelphia. 


BASKET    WORK 

OF   ALL   KINDS 


WITH  NUMEROUS  ENGRAVINGS  AND  DIAGRAMS 


EDITED    BY 

PAUL   N.    HASLUGK 

Author  of  "  Handybooks  for  Handicrafts,"  etc.  etc. 


PHILADELPHIA 

DAVID     McKAY,     PUBLISHER 

610  SOUTH  WASHINGTON  SQUARE 

19-14 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTE 

THIS  treatise  on  Basket  Work  is  issued  in  the  con- 
fident belief  that  it  is  not  only  thoroughly  practical 
and  reliable,  but  is  so  simply  worded  that  even 
inexperienced  readers  can  understand  it.  Should 
anyone,  however,  encounter  unexpected  difficulty,  he 
has  only  to  address  a  question  to  the  Editor  of  WORK, 
La  Belle  Sauvage,  London,  E.G.,  and  his  query  will 
be  answered  in  the  columns  of  that  journal. 


CONTENTS 

CHAP.  **«* 

I. — Tools  and  Materials  •        •        •        «  •        9 

II.— Simple  Baskets    .......       16 

III. — Grocers'  Square  Baskets  ,  .27 

IV.— Round  Baskets    ....*,.      49 

V.— Oval  Baskets 55 

VI.— Flat  Fruit  Baskets 64 

VII.— Wicker  Elbow-chairs 74 

VIII.— Basket  Bottle-casings 98 

IX.— Doctors'  and  Chemists'  Basket*         .         .        .104 

X.— Fancy  Baskets 112 

XI.— Sussex  Trug:  Baskets 132 

XII.— Miscellaneous  Basket  Work       .        ,         .         .147 
Index  ......  .  157 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


FIO.                                                                 Fl 

1.  —  Screw-block        . 
2.  —  flbmmander. 
3.—  Picking  Knife     . 
4.—  Shop  Knife  . 
5.—  Small  Bodkin      . 
6.—  Large  Bodkin      . 
7.  —  Shears  ..... 

GE 
10 

10 

11 
11 
11 
11 
11 

12 
12 
12 
12 

13 
13 
14 
14 
17 
17 

18 
19 
20 
21 

22 

22 
23 
24 
25 
26 

29 
31 
33 
33 
33 
35 
36 
36 
39 
41 
41 
44 
44 
44 
44 
47 
47 
47 
50 
50 
51 
52 
53 
56 
56 

8.—  Flat  Iron     .... 
9.—  Yard  Stick  .... 
10.—  Cleave  for  Peeling  Osiers   . 
11.—  Cleave  Iron. 
12-15.  —  Cleaves   for   Splitting 
Osiers        .... 
16,  17.—  Share     . 
18,  19.—  Upright  Shave 
20.—  Awl      

21.—  Simple  Round  Basket 
22.  —  Beginning  Round  Basket  . 
23.  —  Foundation    for     Round 
Basket       .... 
24.  —  Method  of  Joining 
25.  —  Twist   

26.—  Trellis  Edge. 
27.  —  Simple     Beginning      for 
Basket      .... 
28.  —  Plaited     Beginning     for 
Basket       .... 
29.—  Beginning  Oval  Basket 
30.—  Finished  Rope  Edge   . 
31.—  Rope  Edge  :  First  Stage    . 
32.  —  Rope  Edge  :  Second  Stage  . 
33.—  Basket  Bottom  in  Screw- 
block.       .... 

84.  —  Simple  Weaving  . 
35.  —  Hooping  Stakes  . 
36  Staking  Basket  Bottom     . 
37.—  Corner  Stick 
38.—  Upsetting  Sides  of  Basket. 
89.—  Fixing  Corner  Stick    . 
40.—  Piecing  in  Upsetting  . 
41.  —  Weaving  Sides  of  Basket    . 
42.  —Strainer       .... 

44.—  Waling  round  Corner  Sticks 
45.  —  Side  View  of  Bordering 
46.—  Top  View  of  Bordering 
47.—  Cramming   .... 
48.—  Bow  for  Basket  . 
49.  —  Bordering  Foot  Rim  . 
50,  51.  —  Lapping  Handle  Bow  . 
52.—  Round  Slarth      .        . 
53.—  Working  Tie-rods  together  . 
64.  —  Bottom  of  Round  Basket  . 
65.—  Filling  in  Stakes  . 
56.—  Border  for  Round  Basket  . 
57._Oval  Slarth. 
58.—  Slarth  Rods  In  Position     . 

FIO.  PACK 

59.— Tying  Slarth       ...  57 

60. — Opening  Bottom  sticks     .  59 

61.  —  Siding    up    Oval     Linen 

Basket       ....  60 

62.  —  Bordering     Oval     Linen 

Basket  •  61 

63.  —  Handle    of    Oval    Linen 

Basket       ....  62 
64  — Turning     Back    Rod     in 

making  Handle         .        .  63 

65.— Beginning  Flat  Basket       .  65 

66.— Handle  of  Flat  Basket        .  67 
67. — Bordering  Corner  of   Flat 

Basket  ....  68 
'  68.— Bow  and  Scallom  Rods  .  68 
69.— Beginning  Basket  Lid  .  69 
70.— Front  of  Basket  Lid  .  .  71 
71. — Piecing  Bow  .  .  .71 
72.— Finishing  Basket  Lid .  .  72 
78.— Tying  on  Basket  Lid  .  .  73 
74.— Wicker  Elbow-chair  .  .  75 
75. — Lapping  Scalloms  on  Bow .  76 
76.— Cut  Butt  End  .  .  .76 
77.— Weaving  Chair  Seat  .  .  77 
78.— Working  Sticks  in  Upset- 
ting    78 

79.— Staking  Chair  Seat     .        .  78 

80  —Upsetting  Foot  of  Chair     .  79 

81.— Fetching      ....  80 

82.— Bending  Tops  of  Fetch-rods  80 

83.— Piecing  Rod        ...  80 

84.— Piecing  Fetchingl       .        .  81 

85.— Fetches  in  Foot  of  Chair    .  82 

86.— Bordering  of  Foot  of  Chair .  88 
87. — Bordering     Round     Chair 

Corner  Post      .  .84 

88.— Finishing  Bordering  .        .  85 

89. — Cramming  Down  Stakes    .  85 
90. — Bordering  at  Edge  of  Chair 

Seat 86 

91 — Finishing  Bordering  .        .  87 

92. — Beginning  Fetching   .        .  88 
93.— Working  Pair  of  Rods  on 

Fetch-rods        .       .        .89 
94. — Beginning  Second  Fetch  on 

Chair  Back       .        .        .  90 

95. — Crossing  Stakes  in  Fetching  91 

96.— Plaiting  Border  ...  92 
97. — Bending  Stakes  in  Plaited 

Border       .        .        .        .93 

98.— Splitting  End  of  Rod  .        .  94 

99. — Inserting  Clea^p  in  Rod     .  95 

100.— Fiaishing-off  Chair  Post     .  96 
101. — Beginning  Cap  of  Bottle- 
casing        .        .        .        .99 
102. — Working     Strand      round 

Bottle  Neck      ...  99 


LIST  OP  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


no.  PAGE 

103.— Plan  of  Cap  of  Casing.  .  100 
104.— Part  of  Casing,  showing 

Tap  Opening  .  .  .101 
105.— Scallomed  Rod  .  .  .101 
106.— Border  on  Bottle-casing  .  102 
107.— Handle  on  Bottle-casing  .  102 
108.— Bordering  Doctor's  Basket  105 
109,  110.— Working  Bridge  for 

Doctor's  Basket  .  .  107 
111.  — Flap  Lid  for  Doctor's 

Basket  .  .  .  .107 
112.— ScallomRod  .  .  .109 
113.— Finishing  Lid  .  .  .109 
114-118. —Forming  Bands  for 

Doctor's  Basket  .  109,  111 
119,  120.— Lapping  Handle  .  .  Ill 
121.— Piecing  Skeins  .  .  .111 

122.— Staple Ill 

123.— Open-work  Design  .  .113 
124.— Spoke  and  Twist  Design  .  114 
125. — Crossed  Open-work  Design  114 
12().— Zigzag  Pattern  .  .  .115 

127.— Sewing 116 

128,  129.— Basket  Frame  .  .117 
130.— Bottom  of  Oblong  Basket.  118 
131. — Square  Fancy  Basket .  .  118 


Square     Fancy 


132. — Weaving 

Basket 

133.— Handle  for  Fancy  Basket 
134.— Doll's  Garden  Chair    . 
135. — Doll's  Round  Chair    . 
136.— Doll's  Cradle 
137.— Hood  of  Cradle  . 
138.— Doll's  Table 
139-141. —Constructing 

Table.        .... 
142. — Fire-soreen  .... 
143.— Basket  Work  of  Screen 
144. — Screen  .Stand 
145.— Paper  Rack .... 
146,  147.  —  Constructing     Paper 

Rack 128 

148.— Handle  of  Paper  Rack        .  128 


Doll's 


FIG. 

149. 


150. 
151. 
152. 
153, 
155, 
157. 
158. 
159, 
161. 

102, 
164. 
165. 
166. 
167. 
168 

170. 
171. 
172. 

173. 
174. 
1 
176, 


—  Open-work  Side  for  Paper 

Rack  .....  128 

—  Doll's  Bedstead  .        .        .130 

—  Madeira  Open-work  Basket  130 


—  Side  of  Madeira  Basket       .  131 
154.—  Shaving-horse      .        .  133 
156.—  Shaving-brake      .  m    .134 

.—  Steaming  Trough         .  •    .  135 

—  Steaming  Apparatus  .        .  136 
,  160.—  End  of  Steam  Trough.  136 

—  Attachment  of  Steam  Tube 


to  Copper  ....  136 
163.—  Sussex  Trng.        .        .  137 

—  Rim  of  Sussex  Trug    .        .  138 

—  Handle  of  Sussex  Trug       .  138 
.—  Foot  of  Sussex  Trug  .        .  138 

—  Boards  of  Sussex  Trug       .139 
,    169.—  Sections   of   Rim   of 

Sussex  Trug  .  .  .  130 
.—  Cleaving  Axe  .  .  .142 
.  —Walking-stick  Basket.  .  142 
.—  Collar  of  Walking-stick 

Basket       .        .        .        .142 

—  Caul  or  Wood  Basket.        .142 

—  Stable  or  Feeding  Basket  .  143 

—  Coal  Basket.        .        .        .143 
177.—  Lady's  Work  Basket 

144,  145 

178.—  Handles  for  Work  Baskets.  146 
179.  —  Weaving  for  Hawker's 

Basket  .  .  .  .148 
180.—  Waling  for  Hawker's  Basket  148 
181.—  Basket  for  Show  Fowls  .  149 
182.—  Woven  Twisted  Rods  .  .  150 
183.—  Eel  Trap  .  .  .  .150 
184.—  Crab  and  Lobster  Pot  .  151 
185.—  Border  for  Single  -  stick 

Hand  -guard  .  .  .153 
186.—  Tying-in  Band  .  .  .153 
187.—  Bottom  of  Strawberry  Pun- 

net .....  154 
188,  189.—  Uprights  and  Lacing 

of  Strawberry  Punnet      .155 


BASKET    WORK 

CHAPTER    I. 

TOOLS   AND   MATERIALS. 

BASKET  work  is  so  easily  done  and  at  such  a  small 
cost  that  almost  anyone  can  practise  it.  No  patterns 
require  to  be  drawn,  and  but  very  few  tools  are 
necessary  ;  and  some  charming  presents  or  really 
useful  and  saleable  articles  can  be  made  for  the  most 
trifling  expense. 

First  of  all,  the  tools  required  will  be  described. 
Fig.  1,  p.  10,  shows  one  end  of  a  screw-block,  in  which 
all  square  baskets  and  wicker  elbow  chairs  are  be- 
gun. Two  lengths  of  wood,  each  3  ft.  2  in.  long,  2^  in. 
thick,  and  3  in.  wide,  are  required.  The  best  wood 
to  use  is  well  seasoned  oak,  but,  of  course,  common 
deal  can  be  used,  but  the  harder  the  wood  the  better. 
At  6^  in.  from  each  end  bore  £-in.  holes  for  bolts  8  in. 
long,  the  nuts  for  which  have  a  bow  as  illustrated  in 
Fig.  1.  The  bolts  may  have  square  shoulders  let  in 
the  block  to  prevent  them  turning  when  screwing 
up.  Any  smith  will  make  these  bolts.  Bore  the 
holes  through  the  2£  in.  way  of  the  stuff. 

'Fig.  2  shows  a  tool  known  as  a  commander ;  this 
is  made  of  iron  i  in.  thick,  with  two  rings,  one  at 
each  end,  and  respectively  of  l£  in.  and  2  in.  inside 
diameter.  The  commander  is  used  for  straightening 
thick  bent  sticks,  but  is  not  often  required.  Fig.  3, 
p.  11,  shows  a  picking  or  trimming  knife,  and  Fig.  4  a 
general  shop  knife.  Figs.  5  and  6  show  small  and 
large  bodkins  respectively  ;  these  are  driven  through 
sticks,  etc.,  to  make  a  way  for  pushing  in  stakes. 
Fig.  7  shows  a  pair  of  shears  for  cutting  osiers  ;  they 


10 


BASKET   WORK. 


must  be  strong,  and  about  10  in.  or  12  in.  long.  Fig.  8, 
p.  12,  shows  a  flat  iron,  which  is  used  with  the  bod- 
kins, also  to  drive  the  osiers  close  together.  A  yard 
measure  is  also  required  ;  this  is  best  made  from  a 
brown  osier,  that  is,  one  with  peel  on,  as  then  it 
is  easily  distinguished  from  the  white  osiers  lying 
about.  Make  a  notch  at  every  inch  and  cross  the 
notch  at  every  6  in.,  as  indicated  by  Fig.  9,  p.  12. 

Osiers  of  different  sizes  for  basket-making  can 
be  bought  in  most  towns  by  weight  or  by  the  bolt  or 


Fig.  1.  Fig.  2. 

Fig.  1.— Screw-block  ;   Fig.  2. — Commander. 

bundle.  For  peeling  them,  a  cleave,  shaped  as 
Fig.  10,  is  used ;  this  is  a  well-seasoned  stake  of 
wood,  about  3  ft.  long,  and  3  in.  thick  at  the  thickest 
part.  Some  of  its  heart  is  removed  with  a  saw,  com- 
mencing at  the  thinnest  end,  for  about  18  in.  of  its 
length  ;  this  piece  is  then  cut  out  with  a  sharp  chisel 
to  the  shape  shown  at  A.  Two  pieces  of  triangular- 
shaped  iron  D  (shown  in  section,  Fig.  11)  then  are 
secured  with  screws  to  B  and  c,  the  slightly  rounded 
angle  of  each  exactly  facing  the  other.  When  B 


TOOLS. 


and  c  are  pressed  together  with  the  left  hand,  and 
the  osier  pulled  between  the  two  irons,  the  peel  is 


Fig.  3. 


Fig.  5. 


Fig.  6. 


Fig.  3.— Picking  Knife;    Fig.  4.— Shop   Knife;    Fig.  5.— 
Small  Bodkin;   Fig.  6. — Large  Bodkin. 

riven  in  two  and  easily  removed,  without  in  any 
way  injuring  the  white  heart  of  the  osier. 


Fig.  7.— Shears. 


To  make  osiers  workable,  they  must  be  damped 
in  bundles,  either  by  sprinkling  from  the  rose  of  a 


BASKET  WORK. 


water-can,  or  by  dipping  them  in  a  long  trough  con- 
taining water,  and  laying  them  on  some  clean  damp 
surface,  and  covering  them  with  damp  sacking  ;  any- 
how the  water  must  penetrate  the  osiers,  and  then 
they  will  be  pliable  and  workable.  If  the  water 
hangs  on  the  outside  of  them  when  commencing 


8. 


Fig.  9 


Fig.  10 


Fig.  11. 


Fig.  8  —Flat  Iron  ;  Fig.  9.— Yard  Stick  ;   Fig.  10.— Cleave 
for  Peeling  Osiers;   Fig.  11. — Cleave  Iron. 

work,  stand  them  separate  on  their  top  ends  for  a 
few  minutes,  when  the  water  will  drain  off  quickly. 
Brown  osiers  take  some  time  to  soak  to  get  them  into 
working  order;  fresh-cut,  green  osiers  are  never 
used  ;  they  have  to  be  left  for  several  months  to  get 
thoroughly  shrunk  and  dry.  These  osiers  ought  to 
lie  in  a  trough  of  water  for  several  days  ;  failing  this, 
they  must  be  laid  close  together  in  bundles,  well 


TOOLS. 


watered  occasionally,  and  covered  with  wet  sacking. 
If  wanted  quickly,  boiling  water  might  be  tried. 
Almost  any  osiers,  even  those  of  inferior  quality,  can 
be  made  serviceable  by  boiling  them.  By  handling 
one  or  two  of  the  rods  occasionally  the  workman  can 
easily  tell  when  they  are  in  a  workable  condition. 

The  fashionable  buff-coloured  chairs  are  made 
from  osiers  that  have  been  boiled  with  the  peel  on. 
The  peel  or  bark  stains  the  white  heart  of  the  rod 


Fig.  16. 


IxFig.  14. 


Fig.  13.  Fig.  15.  Fig.  17.     . 

Figs.  12  to  16. — Cleaves  for  Splitting  Osiers;   Figs.  16  and 
17.— Shave. 

permanently.  The  skins  are  stripped  off,  after  which 
the  buff  osiers  are  dried  thoroughly  in  the  open  air. 
These  buff  osiers  can  be  bought,  but  they  are  more 
expensive  than  white  ones. 

For  making  skeins  from  osiers,  several  further 
tools  are  required.  Skeins  are  used  for  making 
chaff  sieves,  for  finishing  some  chairs,  mending,  etc. 
A  boxwood  cleave  or  two  (Figs.  12  to  15)  will  be 
needed,  one  to  split  the  rods  into  three  (Figs.  12  and 
13),  another  (Figs.  14  and  15)  to  split  larger  rods  into 
four  ;  the  shave  (Figs.  16  and  17)  is  employed  for  re- 
moving the  pith  from  the  skeins  and  is  held  in  the 
left  hand,  against  the  left  knee.  The  top  end  of  the 


BASKET   WORK. 


skein  in  put  in  between  the  iron  plate  and  the  fixed 
knife,  and  then  pulled  through  with  the  right  hand. 
A  leather  thumb-cot  will  have  to  be  made ;  this  is 
slipped  on  the  left  thumb,  which  presses  the  skein 
against  the  iron  plate,  close  to  the  knife.  If  the 
knife  is  in  good  order  and  the  shave  held  firmly,  a 
shaving  can  be  taken  off  from  end  to  end.  Another 
tool,  the  upright  shave  (Figs.  18  and  19)  is  for  reduc- 
ing the  skeins  to  the  same  width  from  end  to  end, 


Fig.  18. 


n 


FiS-  19-  Fig.  20. 

Figs.  18  and  19.—  Upright  Shave;   Fig.  20.—  Awl. 

the  butt  end  of  a  rod  being  much  thicker  than  the 
top  end.  The  basketmaker's  awl  is  illustrated  by 
Fig.  20.  Two  work-boards  will  be  required,  one 
to  sit  on,  and  the  other  for  the  work  to 
rest  on.  To  make  such  a  board, 
11-in.  plank,  about  J  in.  thick,  saw 
ft.  6  in.  pieces  for  each  board,  and 
ends  to  pieces  22  in.  long,  4  in.  wide,  and  l  .  c. 
The  boards  will  then  be  22  in.  wide  and  raised  4  in 
from  the  ground.  By  using  these  boards  the  work- 
man has  complete  control  over  the  work;  he  sits 
at  one  end,  his  legs  projecting  one  each  side,  and 
the  work-board  rests  upon  his  knees,  or,  what  is 


take  an 
off  two 
nail  the 
in.  thick. 


MATERIALS.  15 

more  pleasant,  upon  a  small  loose  block  of  wood  a 
little  thicker  than  his  legs.  As  the  work  proceeds 
the  workman  will  have  to  raise  himself,  and  a  higher 
seat  will  be  required. 

For  fancy  basket  work,  reeds  and  canes  are  used, 
and  in  the  event  of  it  being  desired  to  bleach  the 
canes,  chloride  of  lime  is  employed.  First  dis- 
solve about  1  Ib.  of  washing  soda  in  1  gal.  of  water, 
and,  while  it  is  still  warm,  steep  the  canes  in  it  for 
an  hour  or  two.  Remove,  and  steep  in  clean  water. 
Next  prepare  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime,  1  Ib.  to 
2  gal.  of  water ;  allow  the  canes  to  steep  in  this  over- 
night, remove,  and  place  in  a  bath  of  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid,  1  part  of  acid  to  12  parts  of  water ;  re- 
move again,  and  wash  for  several  hours  in  running 
water  to  remove  the  acid.  Try  the  above  method  on 
samples  of  the  cane  first. 

Several  kinds  of  stains  and  varnishes  are  used  for 
baskets.  Most  stains  are  applied  after  the  baskets 
are  made.  Brown  japan  thinned  with  turpentine 
will  give  a  mahogany  colour.  See  that  the  baskets 
are  thoroughly  dry,  then  give  a  coat  of  the  japan 
applied  with  a  brush.  When  dry,  give  a  second,  but 
somewhat  thicker,  coat. 

A  brown  stain  for  basket  work  is  made  with  per- 
manganate of  potash,  1  oz.  to  one  quart  of  water. 
Then  apply  a  second  stain  consisting  of  \  Ib.  of 
American  brown  potash,  1  oz.  of  nut-galls,  and  3  qt. 
of  water.  Colour  to  the  tone  desired  with  Vandyke 
brown. 

A  method  of  imparting  a  mahogany  colour  is  to 
coat  the  baskets  with  a  solution  of  gum  in  water. 
When  dry,  brush  over  some  bichromate  of  potash 
dissolved  in  hot  water.  Finally,  give  a  coat  of 
shellac  varnish.  Still  another  method  is  to  boil 
some  logwood  chips,  or  extract,  in  water,  then  care- 
fully add  some  sulphuric  acid :  this  can  be  either 
poured  over  or  brushed  on  the  baskets.  Finish  by 
varnishing  as  before.  Any  good  varnish  is  suitable. 


CHAPTEK    II. 

SIMPLE 


THE  elements  of  basket  work  can  be  learnt  by  using 
thin  cane,  which  is  managed  more  easily  than  osiers 
are.  •  For  weaving  the  sides  of  the  little  basket 
shown  by  Fig.  21,  obtain  one  bundle  of  No.  3  cane, 
and  for  the  uprights  or  radials  one  bundle  of  No.  8 
canes  ;  the  uprights  ought  to  be  thicker  than  the 
weaving. 

Cut  a  sufficient  number  of  pieces  of  the  thick  cane 
for  the  radials  of  the  bottom  which  also  form  the  up- 
rights of  the  sides,  which  must  be  long  enough  to  go 
down  one  side  of  the  basket,  across  the  bottom,  and 
up  the  other  side,  besides  an  extra  length  of  8  in. 
or  10  in.  to  make  an  ornamental  edge  round  the 
top  of  the  basket. 

For  a  first  attempt,  a  basket  4  in.  or  5  in.  high  and 
5  in.  across  the  bottom  will  answer  ;  therefore  the 
radials  must  each  be  about  30  in.  long.  The  more 
stakes  there  are,  the  firmer  the  basket  will  be  ;  but 
for  this  size  eight  will  be  enough,  each  30  in.  long, 
and  one  piece  half  that  length  (15  in.).  Soak  them  in 
water  (hot  or  cold)  for  about  twenty  minutes,  to- 
gether with  a  dozen  lengths  of  the  No.  3  cane.  Do  not 
cut  up  the  thin  cane,  as  it  is  an  advantage  to  have  it 
in  long  lengths  for  weaving,  to  avoid  joins.  When 
sufficiently  soaked,  lay  four  radials  side  by  side, 
holding  them  in  the  middle  with  the  left  hand,  and 
place  the  other  four  pieces  across  them  at  right 
angles,  crossing  in  the  middle,  with  the  extra  short 
piece  inserted  only  as  far  as  the  middle  of  the 
crossing,  as  shown  in  Fig.  22.  Hold  the  pieces  in 
position  with  the  left  hand,  and  with  a  long  length 


SIMPLE  BASKETS.  17 

of  the  No.  3  cane  fasten  them  tightly  together.  The 
easiest  way  of  doing  this  is  to  push  in  one  end  of  the 
thin  cane  between  the  two  sets  of  radials,  and  wind 


Fig1.   21, — Simple  Round  Basket. 

it  firmly  round  and  round  to  hold  them  all  in  their 
places — thus  :  push  in  the  end  at  the  corner  marked 
A  (Fig.  22),  then  bring  the  weaving  piece  over  all  the 
pieces  marked  B,  under  all  those  at  c,  over  D,  and 


Fig,   22. — Beginning  Round  Basket. 

under  E.  This  should  be  done  three  times  round, 
and  will  keep  them  all  together,  as  in  Fig.  23.  This 
crossing  place  will  be  the  middle  of  the  bottom  of 


tg  BASKET  WORK, 

the  basket,  and  if  this  middle  is  not  tigh'tly  fastened 
the  whole  basket  will  be  loose  and  unsteady,  so  that 
it  is  important  to  pull  the  tying  strand  as  tightly  as 
possible. 

Begin  now  to  pull  the  radials  apart,  and  continue 
weaving  with  the  same  long  strand,  only  over  and 
under  each  cane  alternately.  Hold  the  tied  part 
in  the  left  hand,  and  weave  in  and  out  with  the  right 
hand,  turning  the  work  round  and  round.  After  a 
few  rounds  the  radials  ought  to  stand  out  at  even 
distances,  resembling  a  spider's  web.  Observe  that 
the  half-cane,  put  in  only  as  far  as  the  middle,  is 


Fig.  23. — Foundation  for  Round  Basket. 

necessary  to  make  an  uneven  number  of  radials  ; 
otherwise  the  weaving  would  not  come  right.  Pull 
the  weaving  strand  down  between  the  radials  to- 
wards the  middle,  so  as  to  get  the  work  as  tight 
and  close  as  possible.  This  is  really  the  most  diffi- 
cult part  of  the  work,  for  when  once  the  radials  are 
spread  out  evenly,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  go  on  weav- 
ing round  and  round  until  the  work  is  large  enough 
for  the  bottom  of  the  basket ;  but  before  that  the 
weaving  strand  will  probably  come  to  an  end,  and  a 
new  one  must  be  joined  on.  To  do  this,  work  to 
the  end  of  the  first  strand,  and  then  begin  the  new 
one  four  or  five  radials  further  back  by  pushing  in 
one  end  between  the  old  strand  and  one  of  the 
radials  (as  shown  in  Fig.  24),  and  weave  the  two  to- 
gether— not  one  over  the  other,  as  that  would  make 


SIMPLE  BASKETS.  19 

an  extra  row  just  there,  but  one  in  front  of  the  other 
— till  the  old  strand  comes  to  an  end  and  the  new 
one  is  ready  to  go  on  with.  This  ought  to  make  an 
almost  imperceptible  join,  but  sometimes  one  end 
will  poke  out,  in  spite  of  every  care.  If  so,  leave  it 
alone  till  the  basket  is  finished,  and  when  dry  cut  it 
off. 

When  the  bottom  of  the  basket  is  5  in.  in  diame- 
ter, the  radials  must  be  turned  up  to  mate  the  up- 
rights of  the  sides.  The  piece  already  made  will 
probably  not  be  flat ;  but  this  is  all  the  better,  as 
the  basket  will  stand  more  steadily  if  the  bottom  is 
a  little  raised  in  the  middle.  Therefore,  stand  it 
on  a  table  with  the  hollow  side  downwards,  and 


-JL 


"    .-.  —     ^"77^"  •         "          li  ~' 

^TIC— — — -—  ^  '*—  -  - .  •=" -1 "  —-  ----- ^ »5 

— R -^"TT"  "ll~^iycaa^r 

Fig.  24. — Method  of  Joining. 

bend  up  each  spoke  in  turn.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
put  the  whole  thing  in  water  again  for  a  few  minutes 
before  doing  this,  so  as  to  make  it  quite  soft  and 
pliable,  for  if  too  dry  the  radials  will  crack  instead  of 
bending.  A  slight  crack  does  not  much  matter,  but 
if  a  radial  really  breaks  off,  it  must  be  cut  as  short 
as  possible,  and  a  new  one  pushed  in  by  the  side  of 
it  as  far  as  the  middle  ;  but  with  ordinary  care  the 
rods  will  not  break,  for  if  they  are  damp  enough  they 
can  be  bent  up  quite  close  to  the  last  row  of  weaving. 
They  will  not  stay  upright  till  after  a  few  rows  of 
weaving  have  been  done. 

The  best  plan  is  to  rest  the  work  edgeways  on  a 
table  or  on  the  knee,  with  the  uprights  pointing  away 
from  the  worker,  and  weave  round  and  round  as 
before  from  left  to  right,  only  pulling  the  strand 
tight  to  make  the  uprights  stand  upright,  which  they 
will  very  soon  do.  The  shape  will  be  improved 


20  BASKET  WORK. 

greatly  if  the  sides  can  be  sloped  a  little  outwards, 
but  it  needs  practice  to  do  this  evenly  all  round.  It 
is  a  great  help  to  put  a  basin  or  flower-pot  inside  the 
basket  and  work  it  round,  though  it  is  best  to  learn 
to  do  without  such  help.  Always  press  down  each 
row  of  weaving  as  it  is  completed,  to  make  the  basket 
firm,  the  left  hand  pressing  down  the  weaving  while 
the  right  holds  the  weaving  strand. 

When  the  sides  of  the  basket  are  5  in.  high  (or 
whatever  height  seems  a  good  proportion),  the  edge 
may  be  finished  off.  Take  a  short  piece  of  No.  3 
cane,  rather  longer  than  the  circumference  of  the 


Fig.  25.— Twist. 

basket,  and  push  one  end  behind  the  weaving 
strand,  as  if  for  a  join— or  else  push  the  end  down 
by  the  side  of  the  last  upright — and  then  make  a 
twist  of  the  two  strands,  using  them  alternately — 
thus :  Take  the  new  strand  B  (Fig.  25)  behind  up- 
right c  and  in  front  of  D  ;  while  the  old  strand  A 
goes  in  front  of  c  and  behind  D.  Then  B  goes  behind 
E,  A  goes  behind  F,  B  goes  behind  G,  and  so  on  all 
round.  This  makes  a  neat  twist,  firmer  than  ordin- 
ary weaving,  and  prevents  the  top  row  coming  un- 
done. When  round  to  the  beginning  of  the  twist, 
cut  off  both  of  the  strands,  leaving  ends  about  1  in. 
long,  and  push  these  ends  down  by  the  side  of  an 
upright,  or  wind  them  into  the  first  loop  of  the  twist, 
to  fasten  off.  It  may  here  be  mentioned  that  a 
twist  like  this  is  a  great  improvement  round  the 
bottom  of  a  basket  before  beginning  to  turn  up  the 
sides. 


SIMPLE  BASKETS. 


31 


Now  the  basket  is  finished,  but  the  tops  of  the 
uprights  remain  to  be  disposed  of.  For  a  beginner 
the  easiest  plan  is  a  trellis-work  edging  executed 
as  follows :  Bend  over  one  of  the  stakes,  as  in  Fig. 
26,  and  measure  the  height  of  the  basket ;  cut  it  off 
at  A,  and,  after  pasing  it  behind  B,  push  it  down 
carefully  between  the  weaving  strands,  close  by  the 
side  of  upright  c,  that  being  the  next  upright  but 
one.  Then  cut  B  in  the  same  way,  bend  it  behind 


Fig.  26.— Trellis  Edge. 

C,  and  push  it  down  by  the  side  of  D.  For  this  push- 
ing down  a  tool  is  a  great  help  to  make  an  opening 
between  the  strands  for  the  spoke  to  pass.  It  can 
be  done  with  scissors  or  with  a  common  skewer,  but 
the  bodkin  (see  p.  11)  is  the  most  convenient. 

Care  must  be  taken  to  make  the  edging  the  same 
height  all  the  way  round  the  basket.  When  the 
basket  is  finished  and  still  damp  a  good  deal  of 
shaping  can  be  done,  if  necessary,  by  judicious 
pinching,  damping  it  again  if  required.  The  bottom 
may  need  to  be  pushed  up  to  make  it  stand  steadily, 
or  one  part  will  be  found  to  slope  out  more  than 
another.  Shape  it  as  well  as  it  is  possible,  and 
then  let  it  dry  without  touching  it  again,  when  it 
will  become  quite  stiff  and  firm.  When  quite  dry  it 


22 


BASKET  WORK. 


should  be  looked  over,  and  any  ends  cut  off  that 
may  have  poked  out  at  the  joins.  The  basket 
shrinks  a  little  in  drying,  therefore  the  ends  should 


Fig.  27. — Simple  Beginning  for  Basket. 

not  be  cut  till  quite  dry.     The  finished  basket  is 
illustrated  by  Fig.  21,  p.  17. 

Having  made  one  basket,  it  becomes  easy  to  learn 
different  methods  of  beginnings  and  various  kinds 
of  edges. 


Fig.  28.— Plaited  Beginning  for  Basket. 


A  very  firm  beginning  is  to  cross  the  radials  in 
the  middle,  poke  in  one  end  of  the  weaving  strand 
as  before,  and  then  fasten  it  round  the  radials,  as 


SIMPLE  BASKETS.  *3 

shown  by  Fig.  27.  When  done,  it  should  be  alike 
on  both  sides,  with  a  cross  from  comer  to  corner  and 
a  straight  tie  on  each  side  forming  a  square.  It  is 
of  no  consequence  how  this  is  done,  but  the  follow- 
ing rule  will  help  in  bringing  it  right :  Begin  at  the 
corner  E  (Fig.  27).  Bring  the  strand  under  the 
radials  A,  over  B,  under  c,  over  D  ;  now  across  on  the 
under  side,  from  E  to  F,  then  round  again,  over  c, 
under  i>,  over  A ;  cross  underneath  from  a  to  H  and 
back  again  over  to  G,  under  B,  and  over  again  from 
F  to  E.  This  finishes  the  tie,  and  the  strand  is  ready 
to  go  under  the  first  radial  at  A  to  begin  the  weaving. 


Fig.  29. — Beginning  Oval  Basket. 

Another'beginning  is  to  divide,  say,  twelve  radials 
into  four  equal  bundles,  lay  them  in  a  square  inter- 
lacing each  other,  and  wind  round  three  or  four 
times  before  beginning  to  divide  the  radials,  as  in 
Fig.  28.  This  is  a  pretty  beginning,  but  it  leaves  a 
square  hole  at  the  bottom  of  the  basket. 

Sometimes  it  seems  difficult  to  get  the  radials  to 
spread  evenly  apart,  especially  if  they  are  tied 
very  tightly.  One  way  to  overcome  this  difficulty 
is  to  begin  the  weaving  by  going  over  two  radials 
and  under  two  alternately,  instead  of  over  and  under 
one  only.  When  back  again  to  the  beginning,  if 
there  is  an  uneven  number  of  radials,  the  second 
round  of  weaving  will  divide  the  two  radials  that 
went  together  the  first  time,  and  after  a  few  rounds 
it  will  be  seen  that  this  makes  a  very  close  kind  of 
twisted  weaving  of  good  appearance.  If  about  3  in. 


*4 


BASKET  WORK. 


in  diameter  is  worked  like  this,  and  then  the  rest 
in  the  ordinary  weaving,  over  and  under  one  only, 
it  has  a  very  good  effect. 

An  oval  basket  must  be  begun  in  a  different  way. 
Lay  three  canes  side  by  side  for  the  long  way  of  the 
basket,  with  two  crosspieces  above  it ;  tie  these  with 
a  cross-tie,  then  wind  the  tying  strand  round  the  long- 
way  radials  for  about  half  an  inch  ;  lay  on  another 
crosspiece  and  fasten  that;  wind  round  again  for 
another  half-inch,  lay  another  crosspiece,  and  so  on 
until  it  is  long  enough,  putting  two  crosspieces  to- 
gether the  last  time,  as  at  the  beginning  (see  Fig.  29). 
This  must  be  about  half  the  length  that  the  bottom 


Fig.  30.— Finished  Rope  Edge. 

is  required  to  be — that  is  to  say,  if  a  basket  8  in.  long 
is  required,  it  must  be  4  in.  from  A  to  B  (Fig.  29). 
Then  weave  in  and  out  as  usual  with  the  weaving 
strand  c,  pulling  the  end  crosspieces  apart ;  but  as 
the  even  number  of  canes  would  bring  the  weaving 
wrong,  either  an  odd  cane  must  be  put  in  at  one 
end.  which  will  make  the  basket  uneven,  or  two 
strands  must  be  used  for  weaving,  which  is  better. 
In  the  second  case,  work  all  round  with  one  strand, 
and  when  back  again  to  the  beginning  leave  the  first 
strand  hanging  loose  ;  take  the  second  strand  and 
work  a  row  with  that,  then  the  first  strand  again, 
and  so  on  alternately,  The  sides  are  to  be  turned 
up  exactly  the  same  as  for  a  round  basket,  but  ovals 
are  much  more  difficult  to  shape  evenly  than  round 
ones,  though  a  little  practice  will  soon  bring  it  all 


SIMPLE  BASKETS.  25 

right.  Dolls'  cradles  can  be  made  just  like  oval 
baskets,  leaving  the  uprights  extra  long  at  one  end 
to  make  the  hood. 

There  are  many  different  ways  of  finishing  off  the 
tops  of  baskets.  One  of  the  most  useful  is  a  thick 
rope  edging  (Fig.  30),  for  which  the  uprights  must 
be  quite  14  in.  above  the  top  of  the  basket,  and  they 
should  be  very  damp. 

.  For  the  rope  edging,  take  any  upright  to.  begin 
with,  A  Fig.  31,  bend  it/  to  the  right  in  front  of  B, 
behind  c,  and  then  bend  B  down  on  the  top  of  it. 
Take  c  in  front  of  D,  behind  E,  and  bend  D  down 
upon  it.  There  are  now  two  pairs  of  bent-over 


Fig.  31.— Rope  Edge :  First  Stage. 

spokes.  Take  the  upper  one  of  the  left-hand  pair, 
B,  pass  it  in  front  of  E,  behind  F,  and  bend  E  down 
upon  it.  Now  there  are  again  two  pairs.  Take 
the  upper  one  of  the  left-hand  pair  as  be- 
fore (this  time  it  will  be  D)  ;  repeat  this 
all  round.  D  will  go  in  front  of  F,  be- 
hind G,  and  F  down  upon  it.  When  back  again 
to  the  starting-place  the  first  four  spokes,  A,  B,  c, 
and  B,  must  be  pulled  out,  as  the  beginning  did  not 
really  follow  the  correct  rule,  and  they  must  be 
pushed  in  and  out,  following  the  same  rule  as  the 
rest,  so  that  the  twist  is  exactly  alike  all  round. 
The  edges  should  now  resemble  Fig.  32,  with  all  the 
ends  outside  the  basket.  To  finish  the  twist,  take  A 
(Fig.  32)  and  push  it  in  at  the  opening  B ;  take  c  and 
push  it  in  at  D,  and  so  on  all  round,  enlarging  the 


26  BASKET  WORK. 

opening,  if  required,  with  the  bodkin.  The  ends  will 
now  be  all  inside  the  basket.  Cut  them  off,  leaving 
about  an  inch,  and  when  the  whole  thing  is  quite  dry 
cut  them  off  quite  close  to  the  twist.  If  cut  short  be- 
fore drying  they  are  sure  to  shrink  and  fly  out.  This 


Fig.  32.— Rope  Edge  :  Second  Stage. 


is  a  very  handsome  edging  when  done  evenly.  The 
closer  the  uprights  the  better  it  looks.  (See  Fig.  30.) 
If  a  handle  is  wanted,  it  should  be  put  in.  before 
doing  the  twist.  Take  six  lengths  of  cane  the  same 
size  as  the  uprights ;  push  down  three  of  them  on 
one  side  of  an  upright  and  three  on  the  other.  Twist 
the  two  sets  together,  and  push  them  down  by  the 
corresponding  upright  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
basket.  The  twist  will  hold  them  tight,  or  they  can 
be  tied  as  well  if  considered  advisable. 


CHAPTER   III. 

GROCERS'  SQUARE  BASKETS. 

WHEN  success  has  been,  attained  in  the  light  cane 
basket-work  described  in  the  previous  chapter, 
really  practical  and  useful  work  with  osiers  may  be 
attempted.  The  grocers'  square  basket  about  to  be 
described  has  a  bow  handle  over  the  open  top,  and 
in  making  it  there  will  be  great  help  in  examining 
a  basket  of  this  type.  Place  the  screw-block  (Fig.  1, 
p.  10)  on  the  working-board,  one  end  of  which  should 
rest  on  the  sitting-board.  The  basket  is  to  have  a 
bottom  17  in.  long,  is  to  be  11  in.  wide,  and  11  in. 
deep  from  the  bottom  to  the  wale,  as  the  finishing-off 
just  under  the  top  border  is  called.  With  the  shears 
(Fig.  7,  p.  11)  cut  six  sticks  20  in.  long;  the  extra 
3  in.  is  for  fixing  them  in  the  screw-block  and  leaving 
a  little  to  spare  at  the  other  end  where  the  bottom 
is  finished  off.  These  sticks  can  be  obtained  where 
the  osiers  are  purchased.  An  old  basket  would  be 
useful  to  a  beginner  as  a  guide  as  to  size  or  diameter 
of  the  sticks  and  stakes,  as,  indeed,  it  often  is  to  an 
old  hand.  As  a  rough  guide,  however,  the  two  out- 
side sticks  may  be  f  in.  thick  at  the  thickest  end, 
and  the  four  inside  ones  about  £  in.  Cut  the  thin- 
nest ends  of  the  two  outside  ones  wedge  shape,  and 
tap  them  in  the  block  with  the  iron,  always  with  the 
bow  or  bent  side  of  the  sticks  from  the  sitter ;  this 
applies  to  all  sticks  fixed  in  the  block,  as  the  stakes 
used  afterwards  have  a  tendency  to  draw  the  bottom 
upwards.  These  sticks  will  be  better  for  being 
wetted  and  covered  an  hour  before  using;  those 
that  are  too  much  bent  can  then  be  straightened 
without  breaking.  The  basket  maker  should  keep 


t8  BASKET  WORK. 

a  bucketful  of  water  at  the  left  side,  or  somewhere 
near,  with  a  sponge  in  it.  After  the  two  outside 
sticks  are  put  in  the  block  11  in.  apart,  outside 
measure,  screw  the  block  up  a  trifle,  just  to  grip 
them  firmly,  and  put  in  the  inside  sticks  at  equal 
distances  ;  all  the  thick  ends  will  have  to  be  cut 
wedge  shape,  and  they  are  tapped  in  alternately, 
first  a  thick  end,  then  a  thin  end,  and  so  on  as  shown 
in  Fig.  33.  Now  screw  up  tight,  using  the  large 
bodkin  in  the  bow-nuts  to  turn  them  round.  Take  a 
double  handful  of  small  osiers,  place  them  on  the 
floor  at  the  right-hand  side,  and  take  two  of  the 
thickest  and  longest  to  begin  filling  up ;  place  one 
of  the  butt-ends  behind  the  left-hand  outside  stick, 
so  that  the  extreme  end  projects  a  little  beyond  the 
inside  front  of  the  third  stick  ;  grip  the  butt  and  the 
second  stick  firmly,  and  with  the  left  hand  bring  the 
osier  round  the  outside  stick,  then  behind  the 
second,  and  leave  it  in  front  of  the  third  stick.  Now 
take  the  short  butt-end,  place  it  over  that  just 
worked,  and  lay  it  behind  the  third  stick.  Now  take 
the  second  osier,  lay  its  butt  beside  the  last  butt, 
and  bring  its  top  part  in  front  of  the  fourth  stick ; 
now  the  first  osier  over  the  second,  behind  the 
fourth,  and  in  front  of  the  fifth  stick;  again  the 
second  osier  behind  the  fifth  stick  and  in  front  of  the 
sixth  or  outside  stick;  then  the  first  behind  the 
sixth.  Leave  it  there  while  carrying  the  second 
osier  round  the  stick  and  underneath  the  first  osier, 
pulling  it  tight  in  front  of  the  fifth  stick.  Now  the 
first  osier  is  brought  round  the  stick,  behind  the  fifth 
stick,  and  left  in  front  of  the  fourth  stick,  and  so 
continue  to  work  the  two  rods  up.  The  worker  will 
find  the  osiers  strange  to  handle  at  first,  but  this 
feeling  will  soon  wear  off ;  and,  by  gripping  them 
firmly,  they  will  bend  without  kinks  or  breakage. 

The  reason  for  working  the  two  rods  or  osiers 
together  when  beginning  a  bottom  is  that  it  prevents 
the  after-weaving  from  becoming  undone  when  the 


GROCERS'  SQUARE  BASKETS. 


29 


finished  bottom  is  taken  out  of  the  screw-block. 
Now,  with  the  yard  measure  and  a  pencil,  mark  off 
17  in.  on  each  outside  stick ;  for  width,  take  a 
small  straight  rod,  and  at  11  in.  from  the  butt-end 
bend  it  at  right  angles,  and  tie  the  top  end  in  a  loop 
to  distinguish  it  from  the  rest;  this  must  be  used 
every  few  inches  as  the  work  proceeds,  because  the 
weaving  has  a  tendency  to  draw  the  outside  sticks 
inwards.  Every  time  the  rod  is  brought  round  the 
outside  sticks  clasp  the  first  inside  sticks,  and  with 


Fig-.  33. — Basket  Bottom  in  Screw-block. 

the  thumb  press  against  the  outside  ones.  This 
must  be  done  to  obtain  a  good-shaped  bottom. 

The  side  towards  the  worker  will  be  called  the 
inside,  so  that  all  tops  and  butts  of  rods  must  be 
begun  and  finished  at  the  outside — of  course,  with 
the  exception  of  one  butt  at  starting,  also  one  at  the 
finish,  which  will  come  inside. 

The  bottom  is  now  filled  in  by  simple  weaving, 
one  rod  at  a  time.  Always  start  a  rod  with,  its  butt 
behind  an  odd  number;  it  is  much  easier  to  bring 
the  rod  round  the  outside  sticks  towards  the  worker 
than  in  the  reverse  direction.  Suppose  the  tops 
of  the  two  rods  which  were  commenced  with  end 
behind  the  third  stick  on  the  right-hand  side ;  place 


jo  BASKET  WORK. 

the  butt  of  the  first  weaving  rod  behind  the  same 
stick,  in  front  of  the  second  stick,  behind  and  round 
the  outside  stick,  and  so  work  the  rod  up ;  do  not 
put  the  next  rod  on  the  same  stick,  but  distribute 
the  butt  ends  behind  each  of  the  four  inside  sticks. 
As  the  work  proceeds,  frequently  apply  the  measure 
for  width,  as,  unless  the  width  is  regular,  the  basket 
will  not  be  well  shaped.  The  work  is  tapped  down 
close  by  using  the  iron  (Fig.  8,  p.  12)  between  the 
sticks.  The  thickness  of  this  iron  (f  in.)  allows  it 
to  be  used  between  any  sticks  or  stakes  likely  to  be 
employed.  It  is  not  much  used  on  a  low-priced  bas- 
ket ;  the  work  is  closed  sufficiently  with  the  side  of 
the  left  hand,  which  in  time  becomes  very  hard  and 
thick,  so  that,  as  the  osiers  are  quickly  slipped  be- 
tween the  stakes  or  sticks,  it  is  used  instead  of  iron, 
and  thus  saves  a  lot  of  time. 

When  the  bottom  is  filled  in  with  the  weaving  to 
16$  in.  full,  it  is  finished  off  by  using  one  long  rod 
only.  Place  this  between  the  right-hand  outside 
stick  and  the  next  stick,  so  that  the  butt,  or  thick 
end,  projects  in  front  of  the  five  other  sticks  and 
a  little  beyond.  Now  bring  the  top  round  the  out- 
side stick,  behind  the  fifth  stick,  leave  it  in  front  of 
the  fourth  stick,  work  the  butt  over  behind  the 
fourth  and  in  front  of  the  third  stick,  again  the  top 
over  the  butt,  behind  the  third,  and  leave  it  in  front 
of  the  second  ;  lastly,  the  butt  behind  the  second, 
and  left  against  the  outside  stick.  Cut  the  two  ends 
neatly,  so  that  they  cannot  slip  from  the  position  in 
which  they  were  left  (see  Fig.  34).  This  will  be 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  weaving  coming  undone, 
as  quickness  has  to  be  considered  in  every  part  of 
basket  making. 

Now  with  the  iron  tap  the  work  to  the  length 
(17  in.),  unscrew  the  block,  and  take  the  bottom  out. 
With  the  picking  knife  carefully  cut  off  all  the  butts 
and  tops  in  a  slanting  fashion,  so  that  they  may  rest 
against  the  sticks  and  not  be  able  to  slip  through. 


GROCERS?  SQUARE  BASKETS. 


3» 


When  the  bottom  is  neatly  picked,  cut  off  all  the 
ends  of  the  sticks  and  it  is  ready  for  staking. 

Next,  the  bottom  will  require  stakes  driven  in  on 
all  sides  to  receive  the  randing  (weaving),  with 
which  the  sides  are  to  be  filled  in.  These  stakes 
will  require  to  be  about  half  the  thickness  of  the 
sticks,  and  just  long  enough  to  finish  in  the  border 
of  the  basket.  All  the  stakes  will  have  to  be 
pointed  at  the  ends  with  the  shop  knife  (Fig.  4,  p.  11). 

The  end  of  each  stake  is  given  two  slanting  cuts 


Fig.  34.— Simple  Weaving1. 

about  2j  in.  long,  one  down  the  back,  and  one  at  the 
side  ;  these  form  a  nice  point  for  driving  into  the 
bottom.  Seventeen  pairs  of  these  stakes  will  be  re- 
quired, ten  for  each  side  and  seven  for  each  end. 
These  square  baskets  look  much  neater  and  more 
finished  if  they  have  corner  sticks,  so  that,  as  the 
randing  is  worked  tightly  round,  it  leaves  a  nice 
bold  corner. 

In  staking  the  bottom,  first  rest  one  end  of  the 
work-board  on  the  sitting-board,  insert  something 
under  the  other  end  to  make  the  board  level,  wet 
just  the  cut  ends  of  the  stakes,  lay  the  bottom  on  the 
levelled  board,  so  that  one  end  is  flush  with  one  of 
the  sides  of  the  board,  kneel  on  the  bottom,  and 
commence  pushing  the  stakes  down  beside  each 


32  BASKET  WORK. 

stick.  The  third  stick  from  the  right  will  require 
one  stake  pushed  in  each  side  of  it.  The  way  to  put 
them  in  is  to  clasp  them  tightly  with  the  left?  hand 
just  above  the  cut  part ;  use  the  right  hand  as  a  mal- 
let up  and  down  the  stake  ;  each  downward  blow  on 
the  left  hand  forces  the  stake  in.  Just  up  to  the 
commencement  of  the  cut  part  will  be  far^nough  to 
drive  them. 

Now  take  the  picking  knife  in  the  right  hand 
and  force  the  point  gently  into  the  stake  to  about  its 
centre,  close  to  the  bottom,  and  with  the  left  hand 
bend  it  up  at  right  angles  to  the  bottom.  Of  course, 
the  stakes  will  require  to  be  in  good  working  order 
for  this  operation.  None  ought  to  be  broken  if  the 
osiers  are  of  good  quality  ;  if  one  gets  broken,  draw 
it  out  with  a  pair  of  pincers,  and  replace  it. 

In  bending  up  the  stakes,  give  the  knife  a  slight 
twist  so  as  to  open  the  stake  at  one  side,  but  leave 
the  under  side  intact.  By  examining  any  staked 
basket,  it  will  be  seen  exactly  what  is  meant. 

After  the  stake  has  been  satisfactorily  bent  up, 
let  it  drop  back  again  to  its  former  position,  and  so 
proceed,  serving  each  the  same.  As  the  basket  is  to 
have  corner  sticks,  pick  out  the  thinnest  stakes  to 
drive  in  nearest  each  corner,  and  the  thickest  in  the 
middle  of  the  ends  and  sides.  When  both  ends  have 
been  staked,  the  sides  are  placed  flush  with  the 
edge  of  the  board,  and  holes  will  first  have  to  be 
made  with  the  large  bodkin.  Hold  this  in  the  left 
hand,  and  by  means  of  the  iron  drive  it  through  the 
centre  of  the  stick  at  about  \  in.  from  the  end  in 
such  a  way  that  the  point  of  the  bodkin  comes  up 
inside  the  basket.  Always  drive  the  bodkin  with 
the  flat  part  of  the  iron  ;  do  not  use  the  edge,  or  the 
wood  handle  will  be  split.  To  make  the  driving  as 
easy  as  possible,  fill  a  hollow  bone  or  an  old  end  of 
cow-horn  with  a  halfpenny  tallow  candle  ;  do  not 
remove  the  wick,  as  it  holds  the  grease  together. 
If  the  bodkin  point  is  pushed  into  the  grease-horn 


GROCER^  SQUARE  BASKETS. 


33 


before  it  is  driven  into  the  stick,  it  can  be  twisted 
out  again ;  if  not,  it  can  be  removed  by  giving  it 
several  side  taps  with  the  iron.  The  moment  the 
bodkin  is  removed,  drive  in  a  wet  pointed  stake, 
exactly  as  was  done  in  the  ends.  Now  drive  another 
in  at  i  in.  from  the  other  end  of  the  side.  Next  find 
the  middle  distance  between  these  two,  and  mark  it 
with  a  pencil  if  desired.  At  f  in.  each  side  of  this 
mark  drive  in  a  stake,  so  that  there  will  be  lj  in. 


Fig.  35. 


Fig.  37. 


Fig.   36. 


Fig   35.— Hooping  Stakes  ;   Fig.  36.— Staking  Basket 
Bottom  ;   Fig.  37.— Corner  Stick. 

clear  space  between  them.  Again  find  the  middle 
of  the  space  between  the  end  and  one  of  the  middle 
stakes,  drive  one  there,  one  at  each  side  of  the  same 
stake,  and  space  them  so  that  they  may  be  about 
two  fingers'  width  (l£  in.  more  or  less)  apart ;  serve 
the  remaining  space  the  same.  The  ten  stakes  then 
will  be  in  that  side  of  the  bottom. 

If  the  worker  has  only  a  small  workshop  or  room, 
it  will  be  best  now  to  gather  the  stakes  up  one  at  a 
time  with  the  right  hand  and  support  them  with  the 
left  arm  bent  round  to  receive  them.  Now  take  a 
small  wood  hoop  not  quite  as  large  as  the  bottom — 
one  can  be  made  with  a  stout  osier.  Its  use  is 


34  BASKET   WORK. 

simply  to  support  the  stakes  until  fair  progress  has 
been  made  with  the  sides  of  the  basket.  Place  the 
tops  of  the  stakes  in  this  hoop  (see  Fig.  35),  when 
the  left  arm  will  be  free  ;  twist  one  of  the  tops  round 
the  hoop  to  prevent  it  working  off — say  the  fifth  one 
in  the  side  from  the  left-hand  corner.  The  remain- 
ing side  has  now  to  be  staked,  and  the  tops  to  be 
placed  in  the  hoop  with  the  others.  Of  course,  the 
hoop  will  have  to  be  tied  with  the  fifth  stake  top  as 
at  the  other  side.  All  the  stakes  can  be  bent  up  \  in. 
from  the  bottom,  then  forced  in  with  the  flat  part  of 
the  iron,  when  it  will  be  almost  impossible  to  pull 
them  out  without  pincers.  Figs.  35  and  36  will  help 
to  explain  the  process  of  staking.  In  Fig.  36  s  in- 
dicates the  stakes  ;  the  bodkin  n  is  shown  driven  in 
to  open  the  stick  to  receive  the  -stakes. 

Next  cut  four  sticks  for  the  corners  about  12^  inr 
long  and  as  thick  as  the  outside  bottom  sticks ;  see 
that  they  are  nice  and  straight  and  cut  them  at  the 
thinnest  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  37,  to  about  1  in.  of 
their  length,  so  as  to  make  a  flat  portion  to  rest 
against  the  corners. 

Upsetting  is  the  process  by  which  the  sides  are 
begun.  If  the  basket  is  to  have  a  foot  rim,  the  up- 
setting is  done  by  working  three  osier  rods  alter- 
nately, otherwise  four  rods  are  used.  First  see 
that  all  the  stakes  are  fairly  straight  and  in  position. 
Then  take  three  osiers,  the  same  length  and  thick- 
ness, so  that  the  tops  may  commence  at  the  left- 
hand  corner  of  either  side  of  the  bottom  and  finish 
at  about  the  middle  of  the  other  side.  Now  place 
the  staked  bottom  on  the  work-board,  with  a  weight 
of  some  kind  resting  on  it;  for  the  weight  an  old 
flat-iron  will  do,  but  small  lumps  of  lead,  with  a  hole 
through  the  centre,  are  best,  as  they  can  be  pegged 
to  the  bottom  with  a  small  bodkin,  which  will  pre- 
vent them  shifting  about.  The  worker  should  now 
seat  himself  on  the  sitting-board,  with  his  box  seat 
placed  behind  him,  and  commence  upsetting  at  the 


GROCER^  SQUARE  BASKETS. 


35 


left-hand  end  of  either  side.  The  first  three  upset 
rods  are  shown  at  A,  B,  c,  Fig.  38.  Place  the  top  A 
behind  the  first  stake,  close  in  the  bend  ;  the  stake 
must  be  pulled  a  little  to  make  the  rods  lie  in  close 
and  tight.  Place  B  behind  the  second  stake,  and 
o  behind  the  third  stake.  Now  pick  up  A  again, 
pass  it  over  B  and  c  in  front  of  the  second  and  third 
stakes,  behind  the  fourth,  and  leave  it  in  front  of 
the  fifth  stake.  Now  pass  B  over  c  and  A  behind  the 


Pig.  38.— Upsetting  Sides  of  Basket. 


fifth  stake,  leaving  it  in  front  of  the  sixth,  and  so 
continue,  picking  up  the  last  rod  and  passing  it  for- 
ward over  the  other  two.  behind  the  next  unoccu- 
pied stake,  and  bringing  in  front,  ready  to  be  worked 
again  in  its  turn.  It  should  be  noticed  that  all  tops 
of  rods  are  begun  and  finished  outside  the  basket, 
where  as  the  butts  are  all  commenced  inside,  except 
where  they  are  pieced ;  in  that  case  one  will  lie  in- 
side and  the  other  outside. 

When  the  corners  are  reached  one  of  the  four 
sticks  will  have  to  be  put  in.  To  do  this,  pick  up  the 
osier  rod  that  was  last  moved,  bring  it  forward  as 


BASKET  WORK. 


usual,  and  bend  it  round  tightly  against  the  corner ; 
place  the  stick  with  the  flat  cut  part  upon  it ;  keep 
it  there  with  the  left  hand,  and,  with  the  right  hand, 
bring  the  next  rod  to  move  tightly  over  the  outside 
of  the  stick ;  hold  it  there  whilst  bringing  the  re- 
maining rod  tightly  over  the  last,  on  the  stick,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  39, and  behind  the  first  stake  in  the  end. 
The  letter  references  in  Fig.  39  agree  with  Fig.  38. 

The  illustrations  show  all  rods  worked  very 
loosaly  to  explain  their  movements,  but  in  actual 
working  the  tighter  they  are  worked  the  better  in 
all  respects  will  the  finished  basket  be. 


Fig.  39.  Fig.  40. 

Fig.  39.  — Fixing  Corner  Stick ;  Fig.  40.  — Piecing  in  Upsetting. 

Next,  the  other  upset  rod  on  the  corner  stick  is 
worked  behind  the  second  end  stake  ;  then  the  one 
behind  the  corner  stick,  against  which  the  1  in.  flat 
cut  part  rests,  is  carried  forward  behind  the  third 
stake.  Continue  in  this  way  exactly  as  in  the  side 
until  the  next  corner  is  reached,  where  the  same 
operation  is  to  be  repeated  as  at  the  first  corner. 

When  the  butt  ends  are  worked  as  far  as  they  will 
go,  leave  each  in  front  of  a  stake,  projecting  an  inch 
or  so  as  the  case  may  be.  Then  take  three  more 
rods  the  same  thickness  and  piece  each  one  in  its 
turn.  This  is  done  by  placing  a  butt  end  beside  the 


GROCERS*  SQUARE  BASKETS.  37 

finished  end,  so  that  one  butt  projects  outside  and 
the  other  inside  (see  Fig.  40).  Thus  the  upsetting  is 
continued  with  these  three  fresh  rods ;  the  other 
two  corner  sticks  are  worked  in,  and  their  top  ends 
are  finished  at  the  right-hand  end  of  the  side  on 
which  we  commenced  upsetting.  To  make  the  up- 
setting look  about  equal,  another  row  now  is  put 
on  ;  but  this  time  commence  the  top  ends  at  the  left 
end  of  the  opposite  side.  It  will  then  be  seen  that 
having  the  butt  ends  on  each  side  gives  a  good  foun- 
dation for  the  sides  of  the  basket.  This  second  round 
is  done  exactly  like  the  first,  except  that  it  is  com- 
menced, pieced,  and  finished  at  opposite  sides  to 
the  first  round.  It  will  be  best  to  cut  off  the  six 
outside  butts  of  the  upsetting  neat  and  close,  as 
otherwise  they  would  catch  and  prevent  the  basket 
going  round  freely. 

The  sides  are  filled  in  by  simple  weaving,  or 
randing  as  it  is  termed.  Take  about  three  or  four 
double  handfuls  of  small  osier  rods ;  these  will  be  of 
different  lengths,  perhaps  from  15  in.  to  3  ft.  or 
more ;  but,  by  arranging  them  in  their  different 
lengths,  they  will  exactly  suit  the  purpose.  Lay  the 
longest  rods  at  the  right-hand  side  of  the  sitting- 
board,  and  those  of  the  next  length  on  the  first  lot, 
but  at  right  angles.  Continue  in  this  way,  keeping 
each  length  separate,  until  the  longest  and  thickest 
rods  are  at  the  bottom  and  the  short  and  thin 
ones  on  the  top,  ready  to  begin  work  with  them. 
Place  the  rods  in  such  a  position  that  their  butt  ends 
are  easily  reached  with  the  right  hand  when 
working. 

The  easiest  and  most  pleasant  part  of  the  work- 
weaving  the  drawn  osier  rods  one  at  a  time  in  and 
out  of  the  stakes — has  now  to  be  done.  The  prac- 
tised workman  does  this  very  quickly.  Sit  on  the 
board,  the  work  resting  on  the  work-board,  and  the 
latter  resting  on  the  legs  or  on  a  small  block  of  wood, 
and  begin  at  the  first  stake  at  the  left  hand  of  either 


38  BASKET  WORK. 

side.  Place  the  butt  end  of  the  first  weaving  rod 
just  behind  the  stake.  Now  place  it  between  the 
first  and  second  fingers  of  the  right  hand.  Of 
course,  it  must  lie  there  loosely,  so  that  the  two 
fingers  may  slide  along ;  it  must  not  be  removed 
from  between  the  fingers,  except  where  absolutely 
necessary.  The  thumb  and  the  end  of  the  first 
linger  jerk  it  behind  a  stake,  where  it  is  immediately 
drawn  into  the  crotch  by  the  second  finger,  passed 
in  front  of  the  next  stake,  again  jerked  behind  the 
next,  and  so  on  until  the  rod  is  worked  up,  remem- 
bering to  leave  its  thin  end  projecting  outside.  As 
the  rod  is  worked  in  and  out  of  the  stakes  the  work 
will  have  to  be  turned,  when  the  corners  are  reached, 
towards  the  right  hand.  The  work-board  should  be 
tolerably  smooth,  as  the  work  has  to  be  continually 
swung  round,  backwards  and  forwards.  When  the 
rod  has  been  worked  up,  swing  the  work  back  to  the 
starting  place,  and  put  the  butt  of  the  second  rod 
behind  the  second  stake,  work  it  up,  leaving  the  end 
in  front  of  the  next  stake,  beyond  where  the  first 
rod  finished  (see  Fig.  41).  In  this  figure  c  c  show 
the  corner  sticks,  H  handle  space,  and  s  stakes. 

In  this  way  the  weaving  in  of  the  rods  is  con- 
tinued, beginning  with  the  butt  end,  one  stake  for- 
ward each  time,  until  the  basket  is  about  10  in.  deep. 
Take  about  two  stakes  each  side  of  the  corner  sticks 
out  of  the  hoop.  If  the  middle  ones  are  removed, 
which  should  not  be  done  until  the  sides  are  about 
5  in.  or  6  in.  deep,  strainers  must  be  put  across. 
Strainers  simply  are  small  rods,  shaped  as  shown  in 
Fig.  42,  p.  41,  and  pushed  down  beside  a  stake  in  the 
weaving.  The  beginner  had  better  have  two  of 
these  strainers— one  across  each  end  of  the  side  of 
the  basket,  say  down  beside  the  third  stake  from 
each  end  of  the  basket.  The  ends  do  not  often  require 
strainers,  but,  if  they  do,  put  one  in  the  middle  from 
end  to  end.  Of  course,  the  hoop  cramps  the  worker 
a  trifle,  and  the  sooner  it  can  be  removed  the  better  j 


GROCERS'  SQUARE  BASKETS.  39 

but  if  it  is  taken  off  too  soon  it  is  impossible  to  keep 
the  stakes  in  an  upright  position. 

For  the  bow  handle  across  the  top,  space  must 
be  left  between  the  two  middle  stakes  in  each  of  the 
sides  the  entire  depth  of  the  weaving.  As  each 
weaving  rod  reaches  this  point  it  is  passed  in  front 


41. — Weaving  Sides  of  Basket. 


or  at  the  back,  as  the  case  may  be,  of  these  two 
stakes  as  though  they  were  one  stake.  Thus  there 
will  be  a  li  in.  clear  space  to  receive  the  stick  that 
forms  the  bow  for  the  handle. 

When  a  corner  stick  is  reached,  cut  a  point  to  the 
weaving  rod,  and  push  it  down  near  the  left-hand 
side  of  the  stick ;  bend  it  down  and  work  it  up  ; 
doing  this  as  each  corner  stick  is  reached  helps  to 
keep  them  firm. 


40  BASKET  WORK. 

Try  fco  keep  the  measurements  true;  if,  for  ex- 
ample, the  corner  sticks  at  the  sides  were  18£  in. 
apart  (outside  measurement)  at  the  start,  do  not  let 
them  be  more  than  19  in.  apart  at  the  top  ;  the  |-in. 
spring  will  be  an  improvement  rather  than  other- 
wise. The  same  remark  applies  to  the  ends  ;  a 
basket  drawn  in  at  the  top  has  a  bad  appearance. 

The  weaving  will  always  be  higher  at  one  point 
than  another  ;  this  is  because  the  butts  are  so  much 
thicker  than  the  top  ends  of  the  osier  rods.  So  that, 
when  the  height  for  the  weaving  is  reached,  say 
9  in.  at  any  point,  a  few  stakes  are  passed  and  weav- 
ing is  begun  again  where  the  height  is  not  reached, 
and  so  the  weaving  is  got  level  all  round. 

A  wale  on  top  of  the  weaving  has  to  be  put  round. 
It  is  something  similar  to  upsetting,  but  four  rods 
are  worked  alternately ;  they  are  begun  at  the  left- 
hand  end  of  one  of  the  sides,  but  each  rod  is  passed 
first  behind  two  stakes,  then  in  front  of  the  next  two, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  43,  in  which  A  B  c  D  are  the  wale 
rods,  H  handle  space,  and.  8  the  stakes.  This 
method  of  working  gives  a  finish  to  the  inside  as  well 
as  the  outside  ;  also,  it  allows  more  room,  when 
finishing  the  border,  to  drive  the  ends  of  the  last  few 
stakes  in.  Eight  of  these  wale  rods  will  be  sufficient 
if  they  are  of  a  fair  thickness.  Start  waling  with 
the  top  ends  of  the  rods, as  in  upsetting.  Do  not  work 
any  of  the  wale  rods  between  the  handle  space  ; 
always  consider  those  two  stakes  as  one.  When  the 
corners  are  reached,  pick  up  No.  4  from  the  corner 
stick,  and  pass  it  behind  the  last  stake  and  between 
the  corner  stick  and  the  first  stake  in  the  end 
of  the  basket.  Next  pick  up  No.  3  ;  place  it  behind 
the  corner  stick  and  out  between  the  first  and 
second  stake  in  the  end.  Next  No.  2  is  to  be  held 
en  the  corner  stick,  and,  whilst  it  is  held  there,  No.  1 
must  be  brought  over  it  and  behind  the  first  and 
second  stakes  in  the  end,  and  left  in  front,  of  course. 
Now  No.  2  is  placed  behind  the  second  and  third 


GROCERS*  SQUARE  BASKETS. 


stakes  and  brought  out  to  the  front.  The  work  is 
straightforward  now  until  the  next  corner  is  reached, 
which  requires  exactly  the  same  treatment  as  the 
first.  Piece  the  butts  of  the  wale  rods,  as  the  upset- 
ting was  done ;  also  finish  the  tops  of  the  last  four 
rods  at  the  right-hand  corner  of  the  side  at  which 
waling  was  begun.  Fig.  44,  p.  44,  illustrates  the 
method  of  waling  the  corners,  B  and  c  corresponding 
to  B  and  C  in  Fig.  43. 

Now  see  that  the  work  to  the  top  of  the  waling  is 
level  at  all  points  by  standing  the  stick  measure 
beside  the  basket ;  if  it  is  not,  tap  it  down  at  any 


o  o 


Fig.  42. 


Fig.  43. 
Fig.  42.— Strainer  ;   Fig.  43.— Waling. 


point  with  the  edge  of  the  iron.  Then  with  the 
shears  cut  off  what  remains  of  the  corner  sticks 
quite  level  with  the  top  of -the  waling. 

Bordering  is  now  begun.  First  cut  four  stakes 
the  same  thickness  as  those  in  the  basket  above  the 
wale.  Make  a  hole  in  the  top  of  each  corner  stick 
with  the  large  bodkin,  and  drive  them  in.  If  the 
stakes  are  at  all  dry,  wet  each  one  well  by  running 
the  sponge  along  from  the  wale  to  the  tip  ends, 
then  lay  the  basket  on  its  side  for  a  short  time ;  an 
old,  damp  piece  of  cloth  thrown  over  the  stakes 
greatly  helps  in  making  them  pliable.  Begin  at  the 
third  stake  at  the  left-hand  end  of  one  of  the  sides. 


42  BASKET  WORK. 

This  and  the  next  three  or  four  stakes  are  bent  at 
right  angles  with  the  point  of  the  picking  knife, 
at  about  \  in.  from  the  wale.  As  each  stake  is  bent 
down,  let  its  top  lie  towards  the  right-hand  corner 
stick  ;  let  it  spring  back  to  its  upright  position,  and 
serve  the  other  three  or  four  in  the  same  way.  The 
left-hand  stake  in  the  handle  space  is  not  to  be  bent 
or  used  at  all,  but  left  in  a  standing  position.  Go 
back  to  the  third  stake  (the  first  one  bent),  and  with 
the  left  hand  pass  it  behind  the  fourth,  fifth,  and 
sixth,  leaving  it  in  front  of  the  seventh.  Now  pass 
the  fourth  behind  the  fifth,  sixth,  and  seventh,  and 
leave  it  in  front  of  the  eighth.  Leave  the  fifth  stand- 
ing, bend  the  sixth  behind  the  seventh  and  eighth, 
leaving  it  in  front  of  the  ninth  ;  bend  the  seventh 
behind  the  eighth  and  ninth,  and  leave  it  in  front  of 
the  tenth  ;  lastly,  bend  the  eighth  behind  the  ninth 
and  tenth,  and  leave  it  in  front  of  the  stake  in  the 
corner  stick.  There  are  now  five  stakes  laid  down, 
each  behind  the  next  two  in  front  of  it.  reckoning  the 
two  stakes  in  the  handle  space  as  one.  All  open 
baskets,  whether  square,  round,  or  oval,  look  best 
with  a  nice  full  border ;  this  is  got  by  always  laying 
down  five  stakes  as  above.  For  baskets  with  lids, 
only  four  are  laid  down  to  start  with  ;  the  lid  having 
to  cover  the  border,  the  dimensions  of  the  latter 
have  to  be  kept  down  as  much  as  possible.  Taking 
up  the  top  of  the  first  stake  laid  down,  the  third 
from  the  corner,  pass  it  over  the  four  other  tops, 
also  in  front  of  stakes  Nos.  7,  8,  9,  and  10,  and  behind 
the  corner  stake.  Now  with  the  left  hand  grasp  the 
ninth  stake  tightly  and  give  it  a  sharp  twist,  at  the 
same  time  bending  it  down  and  placing  it  behind 
the  corner  stake  beside  the  top  of  the  third  stake. 
Now  serve  the  tenth  stake  in  the  same  way,  placing 
it  in  between  the  ninth  and  the  third  stake  tops. 
These  three  tops  must  lie  quite  level  beside  each 
other;  this  is  repeated  at  each  corner  only.  Care 
must  be  taken  to  keep  these  from  springing  back 


GROCERS'  SQUARE  BASKETS.  43 

by  letting  the  right  arm  project  over  them.  Hold 
the  fourth  stake  in  front  of  the  corner  stake  while 
picking  up  the  fifth  and  laying  it  beside  the  fourth 
quite  level ;  now  bend  the  sixth  stake  over  the 
fourth  and  fifth,  and  behind  the  first  stake  in  the 
end  of  the  basket,  and  out  in  front  of  the  second. 
Now  the  seventh  is  to  be  crossed  over  in  front  of  the 
sixth  as  close  and  tight  as  possible,  and  carried 
behind  the  second  in  the  end  and  in  front  of  the 
third.  Next  the  corner  stake  must  be  bent  down, 
and  placed  behind  the  second — of  course,  lying  be- 
side the  seventh  :  always  leave  the  tops  out  in  front. 
Next  bend  the  fifth  over  the  fourth  and  behind  the 
third  in  the  end  ;  bend  down  the  first  stake  in  the 
end  and  place  it  beside  the  fifth,  leaving  it  in  front 
of  the  fourth  standing  stake.  Now  pick  up  the 
fourth  or  the  last  at  the  corner,  and  pass  it  behind 
the  fourth  stake  in  the  end ;  again  bend  down  the 
second  stake,  and  place  it  beside  the  last  one  moved. 

The  bordering  may  seem  rather  puzzling,  but  it 
is  really  very  simple,  with  the  exception  of  the 
corners.  It  amounts  to  this — the  last  projecting  top 
to  the  left  is  carried  forward  in  front  of  four  stakes, 
and  placed  behind  the  fifth  or  unoccupied  stake. 
Now  the  last  standing  stake  (to  the  left)  is  bent 
down,  and  laid  beside  this  top.  These  two  actions 
are  repeated  with  a  slight  difference  at  the  corners, 
and  Figs.  45  and  46  will,  it  is  hoped,  make  the 
method  of  working  corners  quite  plain.  In  both  of 
these  figures,  H  denotes  the  handle  space. 

As  each  stake  is  bent  down  and  passed  behind 
the  two  in  front  of  it  and  out  in  front,  to  be  again 
passed  in  front  of  No.  4  and  behind  the  fifth  and 
out  in  front  of  the  sixth,  it  is  finished,  not  being 
worked  again,  but  being,  with  any  others,  cut  off 
close  with  the  picking  knife  when  the  corners  have 
been  worked  to.  The  last  upright  stake,  bent  down 
beside  it,  takes  its  place  when  its  turn  comes  to  be 
moved.  This  is  shown  at  F  (Fig.  46). 


44  BASKET   WORK. 

The  full  border  at  the  corner  (Fig.  46)  has  been 
begun;  this  is  continued,  the  other  three  corners 
being  worked  exactly  the  same.  On  arriving  at  the 
last  two  stakes  standing,  the  point  where  the  border 
was  begun  will  have  been  reached.  The  first  from 
the  corner  is  bent  down,  passed  behind  the  second, 


Fig.  46.  Fig.  45. 

Fig  44.— Waling  round  Corner  Sticks;  Fig.  45.— Side  View 
of  Bordering;  Fig.  46.— Top  View  of  Bordering; 
Fig-.  47. — Cramming. 

and  its  top  end  pushed  in  the  \  in.  space  between 
the  third  and  fourth,  pulled  tightly  through,  and  left 
in  front  of  the  fourth.  The  second  is  then  bent  down 
and  pulled  through  the  ^-in.  space  between  the 
fourth  and  fifth  stakes,  and  left  in  front  of  the  fifth. 
The  stakes  have  now  all  been  bent  down  to  form  the 


GROCERS'  SQUARE  BASKETS.  45 

border.  The  full  border  is  now  made  up  to  the  right- 
hand  corner  by  the  process  known  as  "  cramming." 
As  each  top  is  brought  forward,  in  front  of  four 
stakes,  it  is  bent  at  right  angles,  pointed  with  the 
shop  knife,  and  tapped  down  beside  the  fifth  stake 
(see  Fig.  47).  In  the  basket  under  consideration 
the  cramming  will  finish  at  the  last  stake  in  the  side. 
Pull  every  stake  as  tight  as  possible  ;  the  work  looks 
neater  and  better  for  it.  If  any  stake  tops  have  been 
left  projecting,  cut  them  off  neat  and  close. 

The  basket  can  now  be  picked — that  is,  every 
butt  and  top  of  the  weaving  must  be  cut,  so  that 
each  rests  against  the  stake  at  which  it  began  and 
finished.  The  picking  knife  must  be  in  good  order ; 
one  good  way  to  sharpen  it  is  to  rub  it  on  an  emery- 
stick,  made  by  tacking  emery-cloth  or  emery-paper 
to  a  stick  of  wood ;  draw  the  knives  sharply  along 
first  one  side,  then  the  other.  It  will  be  seen  from 
the  shape  of  the  picking  knife  (Fg.  3,  p.  11)  that  its 
purpose  is  to  give  a  thrusting  or  pushing  cut.  Be 
very  careful  not  to  cut  the  weaving  under  the  butts  ; 
use  just  sufficient  force  to  cut  the  butt  clean  off. 
Commence  inside  the  top,  and  work  round  to  the 
bottom.  To  pick  the  outside,  the  worker  should 
place  the  basket  between  his  legs  with  the  top  ends 
pointing  towards  him ;  cut  them  all  slanting  a  little, 
and  let  them  rest  against  the  stake  at  which  they 
finished.  The  outside  of  the  basket  must  be  per- 
fectly smooth,  so  that  when  in  use  the  tops  may  not 
catch  in  the  user's  clothes. 

Before  putting  in  the  bow  stick  (Fig.  48)  for  the 
handle,  the  foot  rim  must  be  put  on.  To  do  this, 
turn  the  basket  bottom  upwards  on  the  work-board, 
and  cut  some  stakes  about  the  size  of  the  largest 
that  were  used  in  weaving  ;  some  of  the  thickest  of 
the  stake  tops  that  were  cut  off  will  come  in  for  this. 
Cut  these  stakes  on  the  bow  or  bellied  side  and  push 
them  down  at  the  left-hand  side  of  each  stake,  and 
one  in  each  corner  stick ;  of  course,  holes  must  be 


46  BASKET  WORK. 

made  in  the  corner  sticks  with  the  bodkin  the  same 
as  in  bordering. 

When  all  the  rim  stakes  are  put  in,  upset  them 
exactly  as  the  basket  was  done,  but  only  once  round 
— that  is,  only  six  upset  rods  are  used.  Begin  upset- 
ting at  the  left-hand  end  of  one  of  the  sides ;  piece 
the  three  butts  in  the  middle  of  the  opposite  side, 
and  finish  the  tops  of  those  used  for  piecing  at  the 
right-hand  corner  of  the  side  at  which  the  upsetting 
was  begun.  With  the  iron,  tap  down  the  upsetting, 
and  commence  to  lay  down  the  stakes  as  in  the 
border.  When  four  stakes  have  been  laid  down,  go 
back  to  the  first  one  laid  down,  pass  it  in  front  of 
three  stakes,  and  behind  the  fourth  or  unoccupied 
stake  and  out  in  front ;  that  stake  is  then  finished. 
Now  lay  down  the  last  standing  stake  to  the  left  be- 
side the  finished  one  and  out  in  front,  ready  to  be 
passed  in  front  of  three  in  its  turn.  These  two 
actions  are  repeated  all  round  with  slight  difference 
at  the  corners.  This  bordering  is  spoken  of  as  inside 
two  and  outside  three.  Every  stake  is  in  turn  so 
used.  Fig.  49  illustrates  the  bordering  of  the  foot 
rim.  A  and  B  show  the  last  two  standing  stakes 
being  pulled  under  the  two  first  laid  down,  c  and 
i>  show  tiie  beginning  of  the  cramming,  and  F  shows 
the  finish  of  the  stakes. 

A  thick  stick,  well  soaked,  is  bent  to  a  bow  shape 
to  form  the  handle,  which  will  have  to  be  covered 
by  working  over  it  four  long,  rather  thick  osiers. 
First  cut  the  butt  end  of  the  stick  on  the  bow  side 
similar  to  the  stakes,  dip  it  in  the  pail  of  water, 
and  push  it  down  one  of  the  handle  spaces  so  that 
its  point  stops  against  the  upsetting.  Now  carefully 
bend  it  over  so  that  it  may  form  a  nice-shaped  bow, 
as  Fig.  48.  Some  prefer  high  handles  and  others 
low ;  the  lower  they  are,  of  course,  the  stronger  they 
are.  About  8  in.  or  9  in.  above  the  border  at  the 
highest  part  of  the  bow  is  a  fair  height.  When  the 
stick  has  been  bent  over  to  the  opposite  space,  hold 


GROCERS'  SQUARE  BASKETS. 


47 


it  down,  outside  the  basket,  and  stand  the  yard  stick 
on  the  centre  of  the  bottom  to  measure  the  required 
height,  which  will  be  about  20  in.  to  the  highest  part 
of  the  under  side  of  the  bow.  Then  cut  the  stick  to 
about  the  right  length,  letting  the  cuts  of  both  ends 
of  the  bow  be  towards  the  inside  of  the  basket. 
After  both  ends  are  in  the  handle  spaces,  the  iron 


'Fig.  49. 


Fig.  51. 


Fig.  48.— Bow  for  Basket-Handle  ;   Fig.  49. — Bordering 
Foot  Rim;   Figs.  50  and  51. — Lapping  Handle  Bow. 

can  be  used  to  force  either  side  down  if  too  high,  or 
it  can  be  pulled  up  if  too  low.  To  make  the  handle 
somewhat  shouldered,  put  the  knee  firmly  on  the 
highest  part  and  carefully  pull  up  with  one  hand  on 
either  side  to  form  the  shoulders,  at  the  same  time 
pressing  the  centre  down  with  the  knee. 

The  next  operation  will  be  to  cover  the  bow  com- 
pletely with  twisted  rods  from  the  top  of  one  handle 
space  to  the  other.  For  this  are  required  four  long 


48  BASKET    WORK. 

smooth  osier  rods,  pointed  at  their  ends,  and  of 
sufficient  length  to  be  pushed  down  the  handle  space 
and  twisted  round  the  bow  four  or  five  times,  accord- 
ing to  their  thickness.  Then  a  hole  is  made  with 
the  bodkin  between  the  wale  and  the  weaving  at  the 
left  side  of  the  bow  from  the  outside  ;  the  top  of  the 
twisted  rod  is  pushed  through,  pulled  up  as  tightly 
as  possible  from  the  inside,  and  again  twisted  over 
the  bow.  Space  them  evenly,  remembering  there 
are  three  other  rods  to  work  in.  The  rod  is  finished 
by  pushing  it  in  the  bordering  near  the  inside  to  the 
left  of  the  bow,  leaving  the  top  projecting  inside. 
Where  each  rod  is  begun,  there  is  its  top  finished. 
The  rods  are  all  begun  and  finished  at  the  left  hand 
of  the  bow  on  either  side  of  the  basket. 

As  each  of  the  four  rods  is  pushed  in  the  handle 
space,  it  has  to  be  twisted  between  the  hands  until 
it  resembles  a  rope.  To  do  this,  the  butt  must  be 
quite  firm  in  the  handle  space,  so  that  the  rod  itself 
does  not  twist  round.  Commence  at  the  thin  top 
end  with  the  right  hand,  while  the  left  hand  grasps 
the  rod  just  below  loosely  to  prevent  kinks,  or  some- 
thing similar  to  knots,  being  formed.  As  the  rod  is 
twisted  by  the  right  hand,  it  slits  from  the  top  to  the 
butt,  and  thus  acquires  a  rope-like  appearance.  A 
glance  at  any  bow-handled  basket  will  help  the 
reader  to  understand  this  twisting  process,  which  is 
very  difficult  to  describe.  It  is  very  quickly  done 
v.7ith  a  little  practice  ;  in  fact,  the  bow  ought  to  be 
lapped  with  the  four  rods  in  five  minutes  easily. 
In  Fig.  50,  A  shows  the  beginning  of  the  first  rod,  c 
that  of  the  second,  and  B  the  finished  top  of  the  rod 
to  be  pushed  into  the  border.  The  beginning  of  the 
third  rod  is  shown  at  B  (Fig.  51),  and  of  the  fourth 
rod  at  D.  Let  each  rod  lie  in  its  proper  groove,  in 
close  contact  with  the  bow,  and  twist  the  rope-like 
rods  closer  together  as  they  are  wrapped  round  the 
bow.  Pull  every  rod  as  tight  as  possible.  Cut  off 
the  four  ends  of  the  handle  rods  inside  the  basket. 


49 


CHAPTEE   IV. 

ROUND    BASKETS. 

ROUND  baskets,  known  also  as  cobs,  are  begun  by 
what  is  termed  "  laying  a  slarth  "  under  the  feet  of 
the  workman  (see  Fig.  52).  For  the  round  cob  under 
consideration,  cut  four  sticks  about  11  in.  long ; 
shave  each  along  the  middle  with  the  knife  on  the 
bow  sides  so  that  one  pair  may  cross  the  other,  the 
four  cuts  being  uppermost  when  placed  under  the 
feet.  Take  two  small  rods  and  cut  a  point  at  the  butt 
end  of  one  ;  the  butt  of  the  other  will  have  to  form  a 
half  stick  in  the  slarfch,  as  four  and  a  half  sticks  are 
required  to  form  the  bottom.  On  the  board  between 
the  operator's  feet  two  of  the  sticks  should  be  laid 
close  together,  cuts  upward ;  the  second  two  should 
be  laid  across  them,  and  held  firmly  in  position  by 
placing  a  foot  on  each  of  the  ends.  Take  the  uncut 
rod  i  (Fig.  52),  place  it  over  and  then  under  A  and  B, 
and  lay  it  level  with  c  and  D.  Then  bend  the  same 
rod  over  c  D,  then  under  E  and  F  very  tightly,  at  the 
same  time  pulling  E  and  F  upwards  a  little  ;  pass 
over  G  and  H  and  under  A  and  B  again.  At  the  cut 
portion  of  A  B,  push  in  the  point  of  the  second  tie- 
rod  J ;  bend  up  A  B  a  little  whilst  bringing  the  first 
rod  up  between  A  B  and  c  D.  Let  it  lie  there  by 
tightly  passing  the  second  rod  over  it,  under  the 
half  stick,  and  c  D ;  carry  it  round  over  E  F,  under 
a  H,  over  A  B. 

Now  work  the  two  tops  alternately  round  to  A  B, 
which  must  be  opened  by  bringing  between  them 
the  top  at  the  back,  and  then  passing  between  them 
the  other  top  to  the  back.  Continue  thus  opening  all 
the  sticks,  working  up  the  two  rods ;  there  will  then 

D 


50  BASKET  WORK. 

be  nine  separate  parts  to  receive  the  weaving  (see 
Figs.  53  and  54).  Always  endeavour  to  have  a  crown 
to  the  bottoms,  whether  these  are  oval  or  round  ; 
it  prevents  them  giving  way  when  anything  heavy  is 


Fig.  52.— Round  Slarth. 

put  in  the  finished  basket ;  this  can  only  be  success- 
fully done  when  tying  the  slarth.  Next  fill  in  by 
working  two  rods  together ;  this  process  is  known 
by  basket  makers  as  "  slewing."  Keep  the  forepart 


Fig1.  53. — Working  Tie-rods  together, 

of  the  left  foot  on  the  bottom,  place  a  butt  in  front  of 
a  stick,  then  behind  the  one  to  the  right,  and  so  con- 
tinue adding  a  rod  now  and  then  until  the  bottom 
measures  7£  in.  across  ;  then  pair  off  by  pointing  two 
rods,  pushing  each  in  the  slewing  at  the  left  of  two 


ROUND  BASKETS.  51 

of  the  sticks,  working  them  over  each  other  and  be- 
tween the  sticks  until  the  bottom  is  8  in.  across. 
Push  the  ends  in  the  pairing  and  pick  the  bottom, 
cutting  the  sticks  off  with  the  shears.  In  Fig.  54 
A  shows  the  finish  of  the  tying  rods ;  B,  c,  D,  E  are 
single  rods  to  form  the  slew,  and  G  H  are  the  pairing 
or  ^finishing-off  rods.  B1  shows  how  the  rods  are 
worked. 

Now  cut  eight  and  a  half  pairs  of  stakes,  as  de- 
scribed for  the  grocer's  square  basket  (p.  31),  and 


Fig.  54.— Bottom  of  Round  Basket. 

put  them  in  the  bottom,  one  down  each  side  of  eight 
of  the  sticks,  the  ninth  stick  receiving  only  one. 
Prick  each  up  with  the  picking  knife;  afterwards 
gather  them  up  and  place  in  a  hoop  several  times 
larger  than  the  bottom,  as  these  cobs  require  a  spring 
of  3  in.  at  the  borders.  Drive  in  the  stakes  with  the 
flat  of  the  iron  level  with  the  ends  of  sticks,  and 
upset  the  stakes.  The  neatest  way  is  to  begin  with 
the  top  ends  of  upsetting  rods  ;  discard  from  7  in.  to 
9  in.  of  tops  by  cutting  them  off  the  four  rods •  the 


52  BASKET  WORK. 

starting  will  then  be  more  substantial.  Now  push 
the  top  end  of  each  of  the  rods  in  the  weaving  by  the 
side  of  four  of  the  stakes ;  proceed  as  in  the  case  of 
the  square  basket  (p.  35)  round  to  the  right— passing 
each  rod  in  front  of  three  stakes,  behind  the  fourth 
unoccupied  stake,  and  so  on.  Whenever  the  four 
rod  upsetting  reaches  its  starting-point,  one  butt  or 
top,  whichever  it  may  be,  is  dropped,  and  only  three 
rods  are  continued ;  each  will  then  pass  in  front  of 


Fig.  55.— Filling  in  Stakes 

two  stakes,  and  behind,  and  out  at  the  third  stake. 
Piece  the  butts  with  three  other  rods,  and  work  them 
up.  Either  run  the  small  bodkin  through  the  crown 
of  the  bottom  between  the  sticks  and  force  its  point 
into  the  work-board,  or  use  a  weight  on  the  bottom 
only,  and  begin  filling  in  the  stakes  with  slewing. 
Fig.  55  shows  the  filling  in  with  a  slew  of  three  rods  : 
A  shows  the  slew,  B  an  odd  stake,  s  stakes  in  pairs 
at  each  of  the  eight  sticks ;  w  the  full  slew  which 
goes  completely  round  the  basket,  coming  in  front 
of  the  stake  at  x,  going  round  again  as  at  Y,  in  front 
of  z,  and  so  on. 


ROUND  BASKETS.  53 

From  the  upsetting  there  must  be  a  gradual 
spring  to  the  border,  where  the  measurement  must 
be  11  in.  across  at  11  in.  deep.  A  round  of  white 
rods  about  halfway  up  helps  to  brighten  the  appear- 
ance of  the  basket.  Start  slewing  with  one  rod,  add 
another  a  few  stakes  farther  on,  add  a  third  still  far- 
ther, and  continue  this  three-rod  slew ;  as  the  tops 
get  finished  outside,  keep  adding  a  butt  inside,  con- 
tinually working  round  to  the  right.  To  level  off, 
work  either  a  two-rod  or  one-rod  slew,  as  may  be 
necessary,  and  pair  off  with  two  rods,  piecing  their 
butts  ;  the  border  then  can  be  laid  down.  Perhaps 


Fig.  56. — Border  for  Round  Basket. 

the  beginner  had  better  prepare  a  place  to  insert  the 
handle  bow.  Point  two  thick  pieces  of  stick  and 
push  down  the  slewing,  beside  a  stake  at  opposite 
sides,  so  that  the  bow  may  cross  exactly  over  the 
centre  of  the  open  top.  Of  course,  these  sticks  will 
have  to  be  drawn  out  again  when  the  border  is 
finished. 

For  the  border,  lay  down  five  stakes,  and  proceed 
as  in  the  square  basket,  except  that  there  are  no 
corners  to  trouble  about.  Fig.  56  shows  the  method 
of  forming  the  border,  A  being  the  first  stake  laid 
down,  and  B  B  finished  stakes.  After  finishing  the 
border  by  cramming,  squeeze  the  sponge  upon  the 
two  pieces  of  sticks  and  pull  them  out.  Point,  bend, 
and  push  in  the  stick  to  form  the  bow  handle,  lap 


54  BASKET  WORK 

it  exactly  as  for  a  square  basket,  and  the  cob  will  be 
finished. 

For  the  better  class  of  white  randed  cobs,  the 
rods  are  drawn  in  their  different  lengths,  and  worked 
in  the  sides  one  at  a  time  ;  also  nine  pairs  of  stakes 
can  be  used,  as  an  odd  one  is  not  a  necessity  in  rand- 
ing  as  in  slewing.  The  bottom  is  paired  to  its 
proper  size  by  working  two  rods  together,  as  shown 
by  the  tie-rods  in  Fig.  53. 


55 


CHAPTER  V. 

OVAL  BASKETS. 

As  an  example  of  oval  basket  work,  a  linen  basket 
may  be  described.  The  bottom  is  begun  under  the 
workman's  feet,  as  in  round  work,  by  tying  a  slarth. 
Eight  rods  are  used  in  properly  tying  both  small  and 
large  slarths,  which  differ  only  in  length  and  thick- 
ness. The  slarth  is  generally  laid  about  half  the 
length  of  the  finished  bottom,  that  is,  from  opposite 
pouits  of  the  two  tie-rodsi  first  bent  round.  In  bot- 
toms up  to  14  in.,  three  lays  of  bottom  sticks  are 
used ;  for  larger  sizes  four  trays  are  required,  also 
thicker  sticks.  For  a  14  in.  bottom,  cut  seven  sticks 
about  12  in.  long;  shave  a  little  off  along  their 
middle  as  for  the  round  cob  sticks  (see  p.  49)  ;  also 
cut  a  piece  of  rod  8  in.  long  to  divide  the  eight  tie- 
rods.  This  8-in.  piece  is  required  only  in  the  three- 
lay  slarth. 

Lay  the  sticks  and  the  eight  tie-rods  on  the  board 
within  reach ;  take  four  of  the  rods  and  place  the 
butt  ends  under  the  right  foot,  quite  level  (see  Fig. 
57).  At  about  5  in.  from  the  extreme  ends  pick  up 
A  and  c  ;  put  two  of  the  sticks  in  between  these  two 
and  between  B  and  D ;  drop  A  and  c,  and  pick  up  B 
and  D  ;  place  in  between  B  and  D  and  A  and  c  three 
sticks  about  2|  in.  from  the  first  two ;  drop  B  and  D, 
again  picking  up  A  and  c,  and  placing  in  the  last  two 
sticks  so  that  the  three  lays  may  be  in  a  7-in.  space. 
Now  take  the  8  in.  piece,  and  place  it  so  that  it  may 
lie  under  the  three  middle  sticks,  its  ends  resting  on 
top  of  the  two  outside  lays  of  sticks,  where  they  are 
finally  cut  off  neatly,  as  shown  at  H  (Fig.  57). 

The  other  four  rods  are  now  worked,  one  at  a 


56  BASKET  WORK, 

time,  between  the  sticks  E,  F,  G,  their  butfcs 
the  opposite  way  to  the  first  four,  as  shown  at 
u  K  L  (Fig.  58).  Tap  the  rods  as  close  together  as 


Fig.  57.— Oval  Slarth. 


possible  by  using  the  iron  between  the  sticks.  Keep 
the  feet  firmly  on  the  right-hand  end  and  side  com- 
menced at;  pick  up  D,  pass  it  very  tightly  over 
u  K  L,  then  under  the  two  sticks  G,  over  F,  under  E  ; 


Fig.  68.— Slarth  Bods  in  Position. 


leave  each  projecting  as  shown.  Now  pull  up  I  by 
the  side  of  J,  also  K  between  j  and  L  ;  whilst  holding 
[  and  K  pass  c  under  u  K  L,  over  G,  under  F,  and  over 
E.  B  and  A  are  worked  just  like  D  and  c.  Do  not 
forget  to  Dull  up  the  sticks  a  little  every  time  a  rod 


OVAL  BASKETS. 


57 


passes  under  them  ;  the  object  of  this  is  to  give  a 
crown  to  the  bottom  (see  Fig.  59).  All  the  tie-rods 
will  now  be  projecting  at  one  end  of  the  slarth  ; 
turn  it  round  and  hammer  A  B  c  D  close.  Then  work 
I  J  K  L  round  that  end,  exactly  as  the  opposite  end 
was  done.  By  pulling  the  four  butts  to  the  left 
whilst  working  round  them  they  are  got  in  line  as 
nearly  as  possible.  Before  opening  the  sticks,  D  0 


—Tying  Slarth. 


and  i  J  must  be  worked  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
first  two  at  each  end.  After  that  the  tops  of  the 
tie-rods  are  worked  round  in  pairs,  and  in  between 
those  sticks  that  require  to  be  opened.  Perhaps 
the  end  sticks  will  be  the  best  to  commence  at. 
These  four,  say  A  B  o  D,  must  be  divided  into  three 
separate  portions  to  receive  the  pairing  and 
finally  the  stakes ;  pull  D  to  the  left,  work 
in  A  and  B  between  D  and  c,  push  A  to 
the  right,  again  working  the  tops  of  A  and  B  between 
the  butts  A  and  B  ;  the  butts  c  and  B  are  not  divided 


58  BASKET  WORK. 

at  either  end.  Open  the  sticks  E,  leaving  sticks  F 
undivided.  Now  serve  i  J  K  L  exactly  the  same  way  ; 
with  L  K  open  o,  then  open  E  with  I  and  J,  then  work 
round  to  the  other  tops,  when  c  and  D  will  have  to 
be  worked  again  by  opening^  the  sticks  G  on  that  side 
of  the  slarth.  Now  the  required  number  of  sticks  is 
opened ;  the  tops  are  simply  paired  under  and  over 
each  other  between  the  sticks,  and  are  so  finished 
up. 

When  the  tops  of  the  last  pair  of  tie-rods  have 
been  worked  up,  a  good  handful  of  rods  will  have  to 
be  pointed  at  their  butt  ends,  the  points  being  cut 
the  reverse  side  to  those  of  the  stakes.  Then  draw 
them  in  their  different  lengths,  using  the  thinnest 
and  shortest  first,  one  pair  at  a  time.  There  are 
several  ways  of  filling  up,  but  the  following  is  as 
neat  and  close  as  any  :  Wet  all  the  points  of  the  first 
length,  take  a  pair,  and  with  the  left  foot  on  the 
slarth  push  in  the  pointed  rods  at  the  left-hand  side 
of  the  first  two  sticks  that  formed  the  lays — that  is, 
E  (Fig.  59)  on  one  side  of  the  slarth,  and  o  on  the 
other ;  the  foot  holds  the  slarth  firmly  on  the  oppo- 
site side  to  that  on  which  the  pairing  rods  are  pushed 
in.  Now  bend  down  first  one  rod  in  front  of  the 
stick,  behind  the  next,  and  in  front  of  the  three  of 
the  middle  lay  ;  leave  it  there  whilst  the  second  rod 
is  served  the  same,  and  so  work  them  up  under  and 
over  each  other.  Start  the  next  pair  at  the  left  side 
of  F  and  E  or  G  (whichever  it  may  be),  and  so  con- 
tinue at  either  side  until  the  bottom  is  14  in.  length- 
ways. When  a  slarth  is  laid  half  the  length  of  the 
finished  bottom  the  workman  does  not  trouble  to 
measure  for  width ;  it  will  be  proportionate  in  all 
sizes.  By  laying  the  slarth  shorter  or  longer  there 
is  easily  obtained  a  bottom  wider  or  narrower  for 
special  purposes.  Finish  off  the  bottom  by  pushing 
the  ends  of  the  last  pair  in  and  out  of  the  pairing, 
pick  off  the  ends  neatly,  and  with  the  shears  cut 
off  the  ends  of  the  sticks  whilst  they  are  held  under 


BASKETS. 


59 


the  foot.  Fig.  60  illustrates  the  method  of  opening 
the  bottom  sticks,  the  letter  references  agreeing  with 
those  on  Fig.  59. 

Stakes  for  the  bottom  can  now  be  cut  the  same  as 
for  the  round  basket  described  on  p.  51.  Sixteen 
pairs  are  required  for  a  randed  basket ;  for  a  slewed 
basket  manage  to  have  an  odd  one,  say  fifteen  and 
a  half  pairs,  putting  the  odd  one  where  two  of  the 
sticks  happen  to  be  closer  together.  Wet  the  points 
of  the  stakes,  stand  with  one  foot  on  the  bottom,  and 
push  in  the  stakes — a  pair  to  each  stick — at  either 
side  of  the  stick.  Of  course,  the  three  middle  sticks 


c  B 


Fig.  60. — Opening  Bottom  Sticks. 


in  each  of  the  sides  and  the  pair  at  each  end  are 
reckoned  only  as  single  sticks.  After  all  the  stakes 
are  in,  turn  all  completely  over,  and  gently  force  the 
bottom  down  on  the  board  ;  put  the  right  foot  lightly 
on  the  bottom,  and  prick  up  each  stake  in  turn ; 
afterwards  place  them  in  a  large  hoop.  Now  sit  on 
the  board  and  drive  in  the  stakes  closely  by  using 
the  iron  on  their  bends. 

Begin  upsetting  with  the  top  ends  of  four  rods 
at  the  left-hand  shoulder  of  either  side  (as  the  bot- 
tom lies  before  the  worker)  by  pushing  in  the  cut  top 
ends  at  the  side  of  four  stakes.  Work  the  rods  in 


6o 


BASKET  WORK. 


front  of  three  stakes  and  behind  and  out  of  the  fourth 
or  unoccupied  stake.  If  the  rods  are  short,  they 
will  have  to  be  left  unfinished  at  the  curve  on  the 
other  side  of  the  bottom,  while  four  more  rods  are 
pushed  in  exactly  as  at  the  first  side  and  worked 
round  to  the  first  tops,  when  one  is  dropped  and 
three  are  worked  on  the  first  four,  outside  two  stakes 
and  inside  one.  If  the  first  four  rods  are  sufficiently 
long  to  go  right  round  the  bottom  and  lap  over  their 
own  tops,  that  will  be  found  most  convenient.  The 


Fig.  61. — Siding  up  Oval  Linen  Basket. 

butts  of  the  two  sets,  or  the  one  set,  whichever  is 
used,  must  be  pieced  with  three  other  rods  at  the 
bides  and  worked  up.  Another  round  of  upsetting 
can  be  worked  on  top  of  this,  if  preferred ;  it  is 
always  advisable  to  have  a  good  foundation  of  up- 
setting on  any  basket.  Cut  off  any  butts  protruding, 
and  then  prepare  the  randing  by  drawing  some  small 
rods  into  their  different  lengths.  Pull  the  stakes  at 
both  ends  of  the  bottom  out  of  the  hoop,  only  leaving 
in  a  few  at  either  side,  as  these  baskets  require  a 
good  spring  of  8  in.  at  the  top  from  end  to  end. 
Weave  in  a  few  short  pieces  at  both  sides  first  to, 


OVAL  BASKETS. 


61 


raise  the  latter  a  trifle ;  work  these  in  as  shown  in 
Fig.  61,  in  which  figure  it  will  beinoticed  that  the 
butts  as  well  as  the  tops  are  left  projecting  outside 
the  basket,  as  the  inside  requires  to  be  as  smooth 
as  possible.  After  working  four  or  five  short  pieces  at 
both  sides, commence  the  randing  by  placing  the  first 
rod  as  shown  at  A  (Fig.  61),  and  work  it  up  ;  swing 
the  work  back  and  place  in  B,  and  so  on,  working 
round  to  the  right  until  the  proper  height  i«  reached 


Fig.  62. — Bordering  Oval  Linen  Basket. 


— namely,  7  in.  at  the  ends,  when  the  measurement 
should  be  22  in.  across  from  end  to  end.  Raise  the 
sides  about  2-J  in.  higher  than  the  ends  by  working 
a  few  rods  along  each  side  until  they  are  of  equal 
depth,  when  a  wale  of  three  or  four  rods,  as  pre- 
ferred, can  be  worked  round,  commencing  at  one 
side  and  piecing  the  butts  at  the  opposite  side,  work- 
ing them  up.  If  three  wale  rods  are  used,  work  each 
alternately  inside  two  stakes  and  outside  one ;  if 
four  are  used,  inside  two  and  outside  two  is  the 
method,  and,  of  course,  this  gives  a  better  finish  both 


6 a  BASKET  WORK. 

inside  and  outside  the  basket.  The  four  wale  rods 
that  are  pieced  with  are  worked  right  up,  overlap- 
ping the  tops  of  the  commencing  four. 

The  border  is  commenced  at  the  left  hand  (A, 
Fig.  62)  by  laying  down  five  rods,  and  working  each 
in  front  of  four  stakes  and  behind  two,  as  described 
in  connection  with  the  grocer's  square  basket  in 
Chapter  III.  and  the  round  basket  in  Chapter  IV. 
The  first  three  stakes  finished  are  seen  at  0.  When 


Fig.  63. — Handle  of  Oval  Linen  Basket. 


the  border  has  been  finished  by  cramming,  the 
butta  and  tops  can  be  carefully  trimmed  off  with  the 
picking  knife,  holding  the  basket  sideways  between 
the  knees. 

Two  handles  are  put  on,  one  at  each  end ;  for 
these,  cut  four  rods,  press  in  the  basket  with  one 
foot,  and  push  in  two  of  the  rods  from  the  top  of  the 
border  beside  a  stake  and  about  three  or  four  stakes 
apart,  or  wide  enough  to  allow  of  the  hand  passing 
between  them.  Bend  the  left-hand  rod  A  (Fig.  63), 
and  pass  its  top  under  the  border  from  the  outside  at 


OVAL  BASKETS.  63 

the  right-hand  side  of  the  second  rod  B,  and  pull  it 
inside  the  basket,  just  leaving  sufficient  outside  to 
form  a  bow,  on  which  the  other  rod  and  its  own  top 
are  lapped.  Twist  the  second  rod  rope  fashion,  lap 
it  over  the  bow  three  times,  push  its  end  in  under  the 
border  (outside),  pull  it  through,  again  lapping  it 
over  the  bow  three  times,  and  then  under  the  border 
at  the  right-hand  side ;  pull  it  through,  lap  it  over 


el 

Fig.  64. — Turning  back  Rod  in  making  Handle. 

for  the  third  time,  and  leave  it  outside  the  border 
hanging  down.  Next  twist  the  bow  rod  top  first 
pulled  through,  and  lap  it  round  the  bow  by  the  side 
of  the  second  rod ;  it  is  worked  three  times  across 
the  bow  (three  laps  each  time,  of  course),  and  then 
it  is  pushed  in  between  the  two  rods  and  its  own 
butt,  where  they  go  through  the  border  (outside) ; 
both  the  tops  are  pulled  tightly  down  and  cut  off 
close.  Fig.  63  explains  the  method  of  working  the 
handle,  and  Fig.  64  shows  how  the  rod  D  (Fig.  63)  is 
turned  back  at  the  second  turn  across  the  bow. 


64 


CHAPTER  VI. 

FLAT    FRUIT    BASKETS. 

BASKET  workers  make  up  numbers  of  flat  fruit 
baskets  in  slack  time,  and  quickly  dispose  of  them 
at  the  beginning  of  a  promising  fruit  season.  Any 
rough,  brown  osiers  can  be  worked  in  the  bottoms 
of  these  flat  baskets,  but  the  osiers  must  be  made 
pliable  by  soaking  in  water,  as  fully  described  on 
p.  12. 

The  flat  basket  under  consideration  is  commonly 
known  as  a  3-peck,  which  appears  to  be  the  size  in 
favour. 

First  cut  eight  sticks  (brown,  of  course,  are 
cheapest)  about  17  in.  long  ;  pick  out  the  two  thickest 
for  the  outside  ones,  and  put  them  in  the  screw-block, 
19^  in.  apart  outside  measure  ;  put  the  others  in  as 
described  for  the  grocer's  square  basket  (see  Fig.  33, 
p.  29).  Begin  and  finish  the  bottom  in  the  same  way, 
working  the  roughest  of  the  osiers  in  the  weaving. 
After  the  bottom  is  finished,  take  it  out  of  the  block 
and  carefully  trim  it  with  the  picking  knife.  If  a 
quantity  of  these  flat  baskets  is  required,  it  is  much 
the  best  to  make  one  or  two  dozen  bottoms  straight 
away ;  then  what  is  left  of  the  weaving  can  be  tied 
up,  so  as  to  make  a  clearance  for  sorting  and  cutting 
stakes.  The  sides  will  require  nine  stakes  driven 
in  the  weaving  beside  the  sticks,  and  seven  in  the 
ends,  driven  through  the  sticks  after  making  holes 
with  the  bodkin.  Put  in  the  eight  thickest  stakes  at 
the  corners. 

After  all  the  stakes  are  in  and  pricked  up,  put 
them  in  a  hoop  and  commence  upsetting.  Eight 
white  osiers  are  generally  used  first,  as  they  relieve 


FLAT  FRUIT  BASKETS.  65 

the  dark-brown  colour  of  the  basket.  Point  the 
eight  rods  with  the  shop  knife,  and  make  an  opening 
with  the  bodkin  at  the  left  of  the  first  stake  at  the 
left-hand  end  of  either  of  the  19J  in.  sides  of  the 
bottom.  Drive  a  pointed  upset  rod  in  there,  one  in 
the  weaving  beside  the  first  stake  in  the  side,  one  in 
to  the  left  of  the  second  stake,  and  a  fourth  to  the 
left  of  the  third  stake.  As  the  flats  have  no  foot 
rim,  this  method  of  beginning  is  preferable,  as  the 
butts  take  the  wear  better.  To  upset  with  four 


Fig.  65. — Beginning  Flat  Basket. 


rods,  the  workman  must  sit  higher,  with  the  edge  of 
the  work  between  his  knees,  as  the  upsetting  has  to 
be  pulled  as  closely  as  possible  in  the  bend  of  each 
stake  so  that  the  edge  of  the  weaving  may  be 
covered.  Now  bend  the  first  upset  rod  tightly  round 
the  corner  in  front  of  the  two  corner  stakes  ;  also  in 
front  of  the  second  in  the  side ;  place  it  behind  the 
third  close  in  the  bend,  and  leave  it  in  front  of  the 
fourth  The  second  rod  is  then  bent,  placed  behind 
the  fourth,  and  out  in  front.  Continue  in  this  way, 
taking  up  the  last  to  the  left,  passing  it  in  front  of 
three  stakes,  behind  the  fourth  unoccupied  stake, 
and  out  in  front  of  the  fifth,  ready  to  be  passed  on 
in  its  turn  (see  Fig.  65,  where  A  B  o  D  are  the  upset 
E 


66  BASKET  WORK.. 

rods,  and  s  the  stakes).  When  the  left-hand  corner 
of  the  opposite  side  is  reached,  put  in  the  other 
four  upset  rods  exactly  as  were  the  first ;  the  tops 
of  the  first  four  must  be  left  at  the  end  until  the 
second  four  have  been  worked  along  the  side,  when 
the  first  tops  can  be  proceeded  with.  The  top  that 
first  reaches  the  first  upset  rod  finishes  there,  while 
the  three  others  are  worked  round  the  corner  and 
along  the  side,  in  front  of  two  stakes,  and  behind 
the  third  alternately.  Finish  the  second  lot  of  tops 
in  the  same  way  ;  place  the  work  on  the  board,  and 
put  one  more  round  of  upsetting  on  the  first,  com- 
mencing at  one  of  the  sides  with  the  tops  of  three 
rods  ;  piece  with  three  others  at  the  opposite  side 
and  work  them  up.  The  weaving  can  then  be  pro- 
ceeded with. 

The  weaving  will  have  to  be  drawn  in  the  differ- 
ent lengths  as  described  on  p.  29.  Begin  by  placing 
the  butt  of  the  first  weaving  rod  behind  the  first 
stake  at  the  left-hand  end  of  either  of  the  sides, 
and  work  it  up  ;  place  the  butt  of  the  second  weaving 
rod  behind  the  second  stake,  and  so  on,  working 
from  left  to  right  until  a  height  of  8  in.  is  reached  at 
all  points,  outside  measure. 

Two  handles  now  will  have  to  be  made,  one  on 
each  end.  One  rather  stiff  rod  is  used  for  each ; 
push  its  pointed  butt  down  the  weaving,  beside  and 
at  the  right-hand  of  the  third  stake  from  the  right- 
hand  side.  Twist  the  rod  from  the  top  downwards, 
to  give  it  a  rope-like  appearance  ;  now  push  its  top 
through  the  weaving  at  about  \\  in.  from  the  top  of 
same  to  the  left  of  the  fifth  stake,  and  draw  it 
through  from  the  inside,  leaving  sufficient  outside 
to  form  a  bow.  Bring  the  top  over  the  weaving  to 
the  right  of  the  same  stake,  twist  it  over  the  bow 
three  times,  push  it  through  the  weaving  to  the 
right  of  the  third  stake,  and  bring  over  the  weaving 
to  the  left  of  the  third  stake.  Now  twist  it  in  its 
proper  groove  along  the  bow,  push  it  between  the 


FLAT  FRUIT  BASKETS.  67 

rod  in  front  of  the  fifth  stake,  work  it  back  again, 
and  finish  it  in  the  weaving  at  the  third  stake  (see 
Fig.  66,  where  B  shows  the  beginning  and  F  the 
finish).  Another  way  to  form  the  handle,  as  used 
on  white  flats  and  on  all  good  hampers,  is  to  use  two 
rods,  pushing  one  down  to  the  right  of  the  third 
stake,  the  other  to  the  lef  b  of  the  fifth  stake.  Bend 
the  one  to  the  right  down,  and  push  it  through  the 
weaving  to  the  left?  of  the  fifth  stake  and  the  pointed 
butt  of  the  second  handle-rod ;  pull  it  through  the 
weaving,  leaving  sufficient  outside  to  form  a  bow. 
Next  twist  the  second  rod  rope-fashion,  lap  it  over 
the  bow  of  the  first  three  times,  then  pass  it 


Fig.  66.— Handle  of  Flat  Basket. 

through  the  weaving,  over  the  latter,  back  again  to 
the  fifth  stake,  back  again  for  the  third  time,  and 
finish  its  top  in  the  weaving  at  the  third  stake.  The 
top  of  the  first  rod,  which  was  left  lying  across  the 
basket  inside,  is  now  twisted  and  lapped  over  the 
bow  three  times  through  the  weaving— over,  back 
again  the  second  time,  its  top  being  pushed  between 
the  open  space  in  front  of  the  fifth  stake ;  it  is  then 
worked  back  for  the  third  time,  and  finished  where 
the  first  did.  It  should  be  understood  that  each 
time  a  handle-rod  is  pushed  in  the  weaving  at  one 
side  of  a  stake  it  crosses  the  stake  at  the  back  and 
comes  forward  again  at  the  other  side  of  the  same 
stake  ;  the  reason  for  this  is  obvious.  After  the 
handles  are  finished,  if  one  side  of  the  basket  hap- 
pens to  took  neater  than  the  other,  let  that  be  the 
front  of  the  flat. 


68 


BASKET   WORK. 


Now,  with  two  rods,  beginning  with  their  tops 
at  the  left  of  the  side  intended  to  be  the  back  of  the 
basket,  proceed  to  pair  off,  as  it  is  called.  Place 
the  first  top  behind  the  second  stake,  its  extreme 
tip  end  resting  outside  the  first  stake,  the  long  part 
projecting  in  front  of  the  third  stake.  Place  the 


Fig-  67. 


Fig.  67.— Bordering  Corner 
of  Flat  Basket;  Fig. 
68. — Bow  and  Scallom 
Rods. 


second  rod  behind  the  third,  its  tip  end  in  front  of 
the  second  stake,  with  its  long  part  in  front  of 
the  fourth  ;  now  work  the  two  rods  alternately  over 
each  other,  behind  a  stake  each  time,  and  out  in 
front.  Piece  the  butts  at  the  front  side,  and  work 
the  tops  of  the  piece  rods  round,  finishing  on  the 
tops  of  the  first  two. 

The  border  is  made  by  laying  down  the  third, 
fourth,  fifth,  and  sixth  stakes  at  the  side  where  pair- 


FLAT  FRUIT  BASKETS. 


69 


ing  was  begun.  Next,  pass  the  third  in  front  of 
three  stakes  and  behind  the  last  in  the  side ;  lay 
down  the  seventh  and  eighth  at  the  side  of  the  third, 
bring  the  fourth  in  front  of  the  seventh,  eighth,  and 
ninth,  and  behind  the  first  in  the  end ;  lay  the  last 
in  the  side,  beside  the  fourth.  Place  the  fifth  in 
front  of  the  last  two  in  the  side,  also  the  first  in  the 
end  and  behind  the  second,  then  the  sixth  in  front 
of  the  last  in  the  side,  first  and  second  in  the  end, 


Fig.  69. — Beginning  Basket  Lid. 


and  behind  the  third  lay  the  first  stake  in  the  end, 
beside  the  sixth,  and  so  proceed  at  each  corner. 
Fig.  67  will  make  this  clear ;  in  this,  A  is  the  first 
stake  laid  down,  and  F  shows  the  finished  stakes. 
After  finishing  the  border  by  cramming,  trim  the 
basket  inside  and  out,  when  a  bow  can  be  turned  to 
fcrm  the  lid. 

The  bow  can  be  formed  with  one  long  stick,  or 
in  two  parts  by  two  short  ones ;  the  latter  method 
will,  perhaps,  be  the  best  for  a  beginner.  Place 
the  flat  so  that  the  side  that  is  to  be  the  front  will 


7o  BASKET  WORK. 

be  to  the  right  hand.  Lay  the  butt  of  a  stick  along 
the  front  border ;  at  the  right-hand  comer  nearest 
the  worker  cut  three  notches,  to  help  in  bending  it 
to  the  shape  of  the  corner  (keep  the  bow  near  the 
outside  edge  of  border) ;  cut  three  other  notches  at 
the  left-hand  corner,  and  then  bend  the  bow  to  the 
shape  of  the  basket.  Tie  a  strainer  across,  keeping 
the  bow  just  the  width  of  the  flat,  measuring  from 
the  outside  edges  of  the  border.  Next  cut  two 
thick  sticks  a  little  longer  than  the  length  of  the 
flat  outside;  extra  thick  ones  split  in  halves  are 
the  most  suitable  for  the  purpose ;  the  flat  part  is 
to  be  placed  to  the  inside  of  the  basket.  Almost 
any  kind  of  wood  will  answer ;  the  strength  of  the 
lid  depends  mostly  on  these  two  sticks.  Four  scal- 
lom  rods  now  are  cut,  and  are  lapped  round  the 
bow,  as  shown  in  Figs.  68  and  69.  Next  bind  in 
the  two  sticks  (s,  Fig.  69),  resting  their  ends  on  the 
bow  B.  Take  a  long  weaving  rod  w,  and  push 
sufficient  of  its  butt  end  between  the  left  corner  of 
bow  and  the  first  scallom  rod  c  to  lap  round  the 
bow-stick  and  project  across  the  width  of  the  bow. 
Bend  it  closely  round  the  bow,  behind  the  first  scal- 
lom, and  out  in  front.  Now  take  one  of  the  sticks 
(sometimes  the  end  is  shaved  a  trifle  wedge-shaped, 
which  makes  it  lie  better  until  woven  firmly  in), 
place  it  on  the  bow  and  the  top  of  the  rod,  pass  the 
butt  tightly  over  it,  and  behind  the  two  scallom 
rods.  Place  the  top  in  front  of  the  second  scallom 
and  behind  the  third  ;  move  the  butt  in  front  of  the 
third,  place  the  second  stick  on  the  butt,  and  work 
the  top  over  the  stick,  behind  the  fourth  scallom. 
Lastly,  place  the  butt  in  front  of  the  fourth  and  be- 
hind the  bow-stick ;  cut  it  off  there,  bend  the  top 
round  the  bow,  and  work  it  in  and  out  the  scalloms 
and  sticks  (Fig.  69).  This  particular  make  of  lid 
seems  to  be  used  on  fruit  flats  exclusively.  After 
weaving  a  few  inches  the  workman  sits  astride  it, 
on  the  body  of  the  flat  turned  bottom  upwards. 


FLAT  FRUIT  BASKETS. 


Begin  most  of  the  weaving  rods  behind  the  two 
thick  sticks,  and  every  two  or  three  tops  work  round 
the  sticks  from  one  to  the  other  (only  just  the  thin 
ends) ;  this  helps  to  completely  cover  up  the  sticks. 
When  5  in.  have  been  worked,  a  space  must  be  left 
at  each  side  for  tying  on  the  lid,  as  shown  at  A  (Figs. 
70  and  71).  Instead  of  weaving  round  the  bow,  turn 
the  rods  round  each  of  the  outside  scalloms  about 
three  times.  Next  point  a  butt,  push  it  down  the 
weaving  beside  the  bow,  in  front  of  the  lid,  lap  it 
round  the  bow-stick  three  or  four  times,  and  work  it 


Fig.  70.  Fig.  71. 

Fig.  70.— Front  of  Basket  Lid;   Fig.  71.— Piecing  Bow. 

up.  In  Fig.  70,  B  is  the  bow,  and  c  one  of  the  scalloms. 
The  left  side  must  not  be  lapped.  Point  the  ends 
of  the  bow,  letting  the  cuts  face  each  other.  The 
worker  should  sit  on  the  lid,  in  order  to  work  more 
quickly.  To  guard  against  drawing  the  bow  in- 
wards, occasionally  measure  it  on  the  body  of  the 
flat.  When  the  weaving  has  reached  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  next  two  tying  spaces,  the  other  part 
of  the  bow  must  be  bent  and  notched  to  complete 
the  lid.  The  cut  points  of  this  part  must  be  made 
on  each  outside,  so  that,  when  it  is  pushed  in  the 
weaving,  each  cut  will  face  the  cuts  of  the  first  part 
of  the  bow.  At  about  15j  in.  make  similar  tying-oh 


72  BASKET  WORK. 

epaces  to  the  first.  But,  before  lapping  the  pointed 
rod  round  the  bow,  push  the  thickest  part  of  the 
second  bow  in  the  weaving  beside  the  thickest  end 
of  the  first;  then  push  the  thin  end  down  beside 
that  of  the  first ;  do  not  forget  to  wet  the  ends. 
To  make  the  bow,  cover  the  border  exactly  ;  it  will 
have  to  be  placed  on  the  flat  and  gently  tapped 
down  with  the  iron  (see  Fig.  71).  Now  lap  _the 
front  tying  space  and  fill  in  the  bow  with  weaving. 
Well  wet  the  four  scallom-rod  tops  A,  B,  c,  D  (Fig. 
72),  and  work  them  as  follows  :  Twist  the  first  right- 
hand  one  rope-fashion,  lap  it  round  the  bow  twice, 
then  pass  it  in  and  out,  as  in  weaving,  and  leave  it- 


Fig.  72. — Finishing  Basket  Lid. 

resting  on  the  corner  of  the  bow  at  the  left-hand 
side.  Treat  the  first  scallom  at  the  left-hand  side 
exactly  the  same,  weaving  it  to  the  right,  and  leave 
its  top  on  the  right-hand  corner  of  the  bow ;  pull 
each  very  tightly.  Next  twist  the  right-hand  one 
of  the  two  middle  ones,  working  it  to  the  left ;  lastly, 
the  left-hand  one,  working  it  to  the  right ;  cut  off 
the  four  tops,  neatly  resting  on  the  bow  at  either 
side.  The  iron  must  be  used  rather  freely  on  these 
lids  to  force  the  weaving  rods  close  together,  and 
especially  the  last  few  inches,  as  the  worker  cannot 
use  his  hand  there,  on  account  of  the  bow  end  being 
in  the  way.  Pick  the  lid  neatly  ;  it  can  then  be  tied 
on  the  side  of  the  border  that  was  crammed.  Fig. 
73  illustrates  the  method  of  doing  this.  Cut  a  point 
at  the  butt  end  of  two  smooth  rods ;  place  the  lid 
in  position  on  the  border  of  the  flat ;  with  the  bod- 
kin make  a  way  down  the  weaving  beside  a  stake 


FLAT  FRUIT  BASKETS. 


73 


from  the  top  of  the  border  directly  under  a  space  in 
the  lid  ;  push  down  the  point  of  the  tie-rod  G  and 
twist  it  rope-fashion  ;  pass  it  over  the  1  in.  of  bare 
bow ;  push  the  bodkin  in  the  space,  slanting  under 
the  border,  and  out  at  the  outside  of  the  basket 


fig.  73.—  Tying-on  Basket  Lid. 

marked  o  in  Fig.  73.  Push  in  the  tip  end  of  the  tie- 
rod,  and  pull  it  up  through  the  space  at  the  outside 
of  the  lid  ;  now  pass  it  to  the  right  of  the  butt,  lap  it 
over  the  bow  formed  twice,  pass  it  again  under  the 
border  up  through  the  space,  and  again  twist  it 
over,  letting  the  twists  lie  even,  as  in  the  handles ; 
cut  the  top  off  at  the  left  side,  where  it  was  pushed 
through  in.  the  first  place. 


74 


CHAPTER  VII. 

WICKER    ELBOW-CHAIRS. 

THE  wicker  elbow-chair  shown  complete  by  Fig.  74 
is  one  that  has  actually  been  made  on  the  basis  of 
the  instructions  contained  in  the  following  chapter. 
Before  attempting  the  chair,  the  contents  of 
previous  chapters  should  be  mastered.  The 
chair  is  begun  by  turning  a  bow— that  is,  a 
long,  thick  stick  is  bent  with  the  hands  and 
the  help  of  the  workman's  knee  to  the  shape 
shown  at  B  (Fig.  75,  p.  76).  The  width  of  the  bow 
when  bent  to  shape  is  18  in.  full,  and  its  length 
must  be  sufficient  to  receive  20  in.  of  weaving.  Tie 
the  bow  across  with  an  osier  or  a  piece  of  string  A 
near  where  the  weaving  will  finish  ;  use  as  much  of 
the  thick  end  of  the  stick  as  possible  in  forming  the 
bow.  Eight  scallom  rods  (s,  Fig.  75)  must  now  be 
cut ;  these  will  have  to  be  very  long,  as  they  are 
lapped  round  the  bow,  receive  the  weaving,  form 
the  front  of  foot  of  chair,  and  finish  in  the  foot 
border.  Each  of  the  butt  ends  is  cut,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  76,  to  about  5j  in.  Now  commence  lapping 
them  round  the  bow  as  made  clear  in  Fig.  75.  Begin 
at  the  right-hand  side  ;  place  the  commencement  of 
the  cut  part  over  the  bow,  underneath,  then  pull  up 
tight,  and  pass  it  over  the  scallom  rod  itself ;  then 
each  end  is  bound  in  the  lap  of  the  succeeding  scal- 
loms,  as  shown. 

With  two  small  rods  begin  filling  in  as  illustrated 
by  Fig.  33,  p.  29.  Then  fill  up  with  simple  weaving. 
When  about  3  in.  has  been  worked,  place  the  work 
in  the  screw-block  indicated  by  dotted  lines  (Fig. 
77),  and  screw  up  tight.  The  left-hand  side  of  the 
bow  will  require  another  stick  placed  beside  it  to 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  75 

strengthen  it.  Cut  a  stick  about  20  in.  long,  point 
the  thin  end,  and  push  it  in  the  weaving,  beside  this 
thin  side  of  the  bow.  Next  cut  two  stakes  and  push 
them  in  (one  at  each  side)  between  the  scalloms  and 
bow,  and  open  them  with  the  weaving  as  shown  at 


Fig.  74. — Wicker  Elbow-chair. 

B  B  (Fig.  77,  p.  77).  The  thickened  portion  at  A  repre- 
sents a  stick  pushed  into  the  weaving  to  strengthen 
one  side  of  the  bew. 

For  a  distance  of  20  in.  (the  distance  ought  to 
have  been  pencilled  before  screwing  in  the  block) 
continue  weaving  in  and  out  the  ten  rods  round  the 


76 


BASKET  WORK. 


bow,  removing  the  strainer  after  5  in.  or  6  in.  has 
been  weaved,  so  as  to  work  quickly. 

The  iron  (Fig.  8,  p.  12)  must  be  used  frequently  to 
drive  the  weaving  close  together.  When  19|  in., has 
been  worked,  use  two  small  rods  with  which  to  finish 
off ;  this  time  place  about  9  in.  of  butt  behind  the 
two  sticks  of  the  bow.  Bring  the  butt  round  the  bow, 
behind  the  first  upright  rod,  and  leave  it  in  front 
of  the  third.  Now  pick  up  the  top  part  of  the  same 
rod,  place  it  over  the  butt,  behind  the  third,  and 


-J 

10 


Fig.  75 
Fig.  75. — Lapping 


Scalloms  on  Bow 
Butt  End. 


Fig.  76.— Cut 


leave  it  in  front  of  the  fourth.  Piece  the  butt  with 
another  rod  by  pushing  in  butt  by  butt,  and  so  work 
them  over  each  other,  in  and  out  the  uprights.  After 
turning  them  round  the  thick  part  of  the  bow,  work 
them  neatly  into  the  weaving,  back  again  to  about 
the  fourth  upright,  and  cut  both  tops  off  at  the  back. 
Take  the  seat  out  of  the  block,  being  careful  not 
to  break  any  portion  of  the  projecting  scalloms  ; 
pick  the  longest  rough  ends  of  the  weaving,  not  too 
close,  so  that  the  ends  cannot  slip  through  when  the 
chair  has  been  much  used.  Cut  off  the  ends  of  the 
bow  with  the  shears,  or  with  a  tenon  saw  if  the  butt 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS. 


77 


is  very  thick  ;  also,  if  the  scalloms  are  well  soaked, 
kneel  on  the  rough  side  of  the  seat,  and,  with  the 
picking-knife  point,  open  them  and  bend  them  up  at 
right  angles,  exactly  as  described  on  p.  32. 


Fig.  77. — Weaving  Chair  Seat. 

The  seat  will  now  require  to  have  stakes  driven 
in  all  round  the  bow  to  form  the  foot  of  the  chair. 
The  chair  being  described  has  rather  a  deeper  foot 
than  most,  being  14  in.  from  the  seat  bottom  to  the 


Fig.  78. — Working  Sticks  in  Upsetting. 

border  that  it  stands  upon.  This  is  a  comfortable 
height,  but  chairs  are  made  as  low  as  6  in.  or  7  in.  ; 
it  is  a  matter  of  choice.  The  extra  depth  will  in- 
volve a  little  more  work  and  rather  longer  stakes. 
Two  thick,  straight  sticks  will  be  required,  25  in. 
long,  quite  free  from  knots,  as  after  the  foot  of  the 


7g  BASKET  WORK. 

chair  is  finished  these  sticks  have  to  be  driven 
through  the  work  with  the  iron  to  form  the  arms 
of  the  chair.  These  sticks  are  worked  in  the  up- 
setting (shown  on  an  enlarged  scale  by  Fig.  78)  on 
each  end  of  the  bow  stick ;  take  a  slight  shaving 
off  each  thin  end.  Cut  sixteen  pairs  of  stakes,  and 
push  one  in  down  the  weaving  beside  each  bow, 


Fig.  79.— Staking  Chair  Seat. 


prick,  and  bend  them  up,  and  let  each  drop  back 
again.  Pick  out  eight  of  the  thickest  stakes,  and, 
after  driving  the  bodkin  through  the  bow  and  down 
beside  each  of  the  scalloms,  quickly  push  in  a  wet- 
pointed  stake;  prick  and  bend  these  eight.  Next 
drive  in  eleven  in  each  side  of  the  bow.  When  they 
have  all  been  opened  with  a  knife-point,  force  in 
with  the  iron,  place  them  in  a  hoop  nearly  the  size 
of  the  seat,  and  tie  the  hoop  with  a  stake  top  in 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS. 


79 


front  and  back  to  prevent  it  working  off.  For  the 
method  of  staking,  see  Fig.  79,  where  B  shows  the 
back  of  the  chair,  F  the  front,  s  the  stakes,  and  T 
the  scalloras,  now  forming  stakes. 

Upsetting  (see  Fig.  80)  is  the  next  process,  work- 
ing three  rods  alternately,  always  working  round  to 
the  right ;  begin  at  the  left-hand  side,  as  the  seat 
rests  on  the  board,  with  the  tops  of  rods,  and  work 
exactly  as  shown  by  Figs.  38,  39,  and  40  (see  pp.  35 
and  36).  Work  in  the  two  sticks  at  the  extreme 
corners  (see  Fig.  78),  and  piece  the  butts  of  the  up- 
setting at  the  right-hand  side,  and  let  these  finish 


Fig.  80.— Upsetting  Foot  of  Chair. 

ab  the  left  side  for  the  first  complete  round.  The 
tops  of  the  second  round  begin  at  the  right-hand 
side ;  they  are  pieced  on  the  opposite  side  and 
worked  up,  forming  the  second  round.  The  third 
round  begins  in  front — that  is,  where  weaving 
finished — at  the  left  hand  ;  it  is  pieced  at  the  back 
and  finished  in  front  at  the  right  hand.  The  fourth 
and  last  round  begins  at  the  back,  is  pieced  in  the 
front,  and  finished  at  the  back  by  pushing  each  top 
end  into  the  upsetting  already  done,  and  pulling 
tightly  through  to  the  front  or  outside.  In  Fig.  80, 
B  is  the  bow  representing  the  seat,  F  the  front,  s 
the  stakes,  U  upsetting  rods,  and  c  the  corner  post. 


8o 


BASKET  WORK. 


As  regards  the  open  work,  every  stake  except 
the  ones  at  each  side  of  the  two  front  posts  (or 
sticks)  will  require  by-staking— that  is,  another 
stake  is  driven  into  the  upsetting  at  the  left-hand 
side  of  each  of  the  first  stakes.  Bods  that  are  not 
less  than  16  in.  will  do  for  by-stakes,  except  about 
the  second  and  third  at  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
two  posts,  which  had  better  be  of  full  length  ;  of 
course,  all  the  by-stakes,  B,  must  correspond  in  thick- 
ness with  the  first  stakes,  s  (see  Fig.  81). 

As  the  foot  of  this  chair  is  several  inches  deeper 
than  most  chairs,  it  will  need  an  intermediate 


Fig.  82. 


Fig.  83. 

Fig.  81.— "Fetching";   Fig.  82.— Bending  Tops  of 
Fetch-rods;   Fig.  83.— Piecing  Rod. 

"fetch,"  as  the  next  proceeding  is  termed,  for 
strength.  A  foot  of  11  in.,  and  under,  will  only 
require  one  fetch,  just  before  waling  and  bordering 
off.  The  fetching  is  begun  at  the  back,  with  the 
tops  of  two  rods,  by  passing  the  top  of  one  rod 
round  a  pair  of  the  stakes  at  the  right  hand,  the 
other  top  passing  round  from  the  left,  thus  binding 
the  two  stakes  in  the  two  rods  and  their  tops  by 
giving  a  twist  of  one  rod  and  top  together  over  its 
fellows.  Often  two  twists  will  be  required  before 
binding  in  the  next  pair  of  stakes,  especially  at  the 
curved  parts,  in  order  to  give  the  foot  a  little 
"spring."  But  a  little  judgment  will  be  necessary 
as  to  when  one  or  two  will  be  best.  The  process  of 
fetching  is  shown  on  an  enlarged  scale  by  Fig.  81, 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  81 

in  which  figure  S  shows  the  stakes  and  B  the  by- 
stakes  ;  T  shows  the  twisting  of  the  rods  when  this 
is  needed  for  the  spring  of  the  foot,  or  to  regulate 
the  stakes.  Fig.  82  shows  how  to  bend  the  tops  of 
the  fetch-rods  round  the  first  pair  of  stakes.  After 
every  one  or  two  twists  of  the  rods  (as  the  case  may 
be)  bind  in  the  next  two  stakes  very  tightly  between 
the  two  fetch-rods  ;  take  in  the  single  stakes,  those 
next  the  posts,  just  the  same  as  if  they  were  pairs. 
Be  very  careful  not  to  draw  the  posts  inwards,  but 
keep  them  perfectly  upright  if  three  twists  must  be 
given  to  the  fetch-rods,  before  binding  the  posts  in 
them.  Proceed  along  the  front  to  the  middle,  where 


Fig.  84.— Piecing  Fetching. 

the  two  fetch-rods  will  require  to  be  pieced  with 
two  others ;  see  that  they  are  long  enough  to  go 
round  the  right  side,  and  lap  well  over  the  first  two 
at  the  back.  The  butts  of  the  two  piece-rods  must 
be  cut  as  shown  at  B  (Fig.  83)  to  ensure  a  neat  joint. 
When  either  of  the  first  butts  finishes,  the  cut  butt 
of  a  piecing-rod  is  pushed  in  between  them,  bind- 
ing the  finished  butt  against  the  next  two  stakes, 
where  it  projects  in  front,  to  be  eventually  cut  off, 
as  shown  at  A  (Fig.  84).  Take  two  more  rather 
stout  rods,  and  begin  their  tops  at  the  left-hand 
side,  so  that  their  butts  will  finish  at  the  right-hand 
side.  Place  each  top  behind  a  pair  of  the  stakes ; 
now  pick  up,  first  one,  then  the  other  rod,  placing 
each  behind  a  pair  of  stakes,  working  them  tightly. 
F 


g,  BASKET  WORK. 

The  piece-rods  for  these  will  not  require  cutting, 
but  need  only  be  pushed  in,  as  in  upsetting ;  finish 
the  tops  by  pushing  in  between  the  first.  This  first 
fetch  should  be  about  6  in.  from  the  seat. 

Proceed  with  the  second  fetch  before  waling  and 
bordering  the  foot-rim.  Mark  with  a  pencil  afc 
every  few  stakes  a  depth  of  12  in.  from  the  seat, 
resting  the  end  of  the  measure  on  the  board.  Take 
two  fetch-rods,  as  Fig.  82,  and  begin  at  the  back  ; 


Fig.  85.— Fetches  in  Foot  of  Chair. 

the  rods  are  worked  the  same  as  the  last,  but  the 
stakes  must  be  crossed  as  shown  in  Fig.  85.  The 
stakes  are  crossed,  first  passing  a  right-hand  one 
from  the  bottom,  c,  behind  two  left-hand  ones,  and 
binding  it  with  the  third  left-hand  by-stake  with 
the  fetch-rods  D  and  E ;  and  so  the  fetching  con- 
tinues, first  pulling  a  right-hand  one  (of  a  pair)  to 
the  right,  then  a  left-hand  one  to  meet  it,  and  bind- 
ing both  tightly  with  the  fetch-rods  ;  every  stake 
will  cross  two  others.  Fig.  85  will  make  this  plain  ; 
F  shows  the  commencement  at  the  back  of  the  foot. 
A  little  judgment  must  be  used  as  to  when  it  is 
advisable  to  give  one  or  two  twists  to  keep  the  pairs 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  83 

of  stakes  regular.  Just  before  the  corner  posts  are 
reached,  push  a  stake  in  the  first  fetch  beside  the 
posts,  at  each  side  of  them ;  these  are  simply  to 
make  the  corners  look  close  and  full ;  they  are  each 
crossed  in  their  turn.  The  right-hand  stakes  of  the 
first  pair  to  the  left  of  both  posts,  and  the  left-hand 
one  of  each  pair  to  the  right  of  them,  are  bound  in 
beside  the  posts  as  the  fetch  is  worked  round  them. 
The  fetch  is  pieced  in  front  of  the  foot,  exactly  as 
the  first.  The  stakes  in  the  front  of  this  chair-foot 
cross  over  three  others,  but  this  is  only  for  appear- 
ance. When  the  last  pair  of  stakes  have  been 
crossed  and  bound  in  at  the  back,  simply  work  the 
tops  of  the  two  fetch-rods  in  and  out  of  those  stakes 


e\ 
Fig.  86. — Bordering  of  Foot  of  Chair. 

at  the  commencing  point,  and  so  work  them  up. 
Next  on  top  of  the  fetch  two  rounds  of  waling  will 
be  required.  This  is  worked  exactly  as  in  upsetting. 
Begin  with  the  three  tops  at  the  left  side  of  the 
front ;  piece  the  three  butts  at  the  back  of  the  foot, 
and  finish  at  the  right  side  of  the  front.  The  next 
round  commences  at  the  back,  is  pieced  in  the  front, 
and  finished  at  the  back.  It  will  be  noticed  that  all 
tops  of  waling,  upsetting,  and  fetch-rods  overlap 
somewhat;  this  helps  to  make  up  for  the  unequal 
size  of  butts  and  tops. 

Before  bordering  the  foot-rim,  see  that  the  points 
at  the  two  curves,  also  at  the  two  posts,  are  about 
13  in.  deep ;  if  these  points  are  a  trifle  deeper  thau 
any  other  part  of  the  foot,  the  chair  will  stand  quite 
firm  when  finished.  Now,  with  the  iron,  tap  down 
the  waling  at  the  centres  of  the  sides,  also  at  the 


84  BASKET  WORK. 

back  and  front ;  that  will  make  the  points  named  a 
trifle  high.  Every  by-stake  of  a  pair  that  is  right- 
handed  will  have  to  be  carefully  cut  off  with  the 
shop-knife,  leaving  every  original  stake  to  be 
worked  in  the  border. 

The  border  is  begun  at  the  right  side,  about  the 
third  stake  from  the  post  (see  A,  Fig.  86).  Lay  this 
and  the  next  four  down,  each  behind  the  two  in 
front  of  it,  and  left  outside,  until  the  five  have  been 


Fig.  87. — Bordering  round  Corner  Post  of  Chair. 


laid  down.  Then  pick  up  the  first  one  laid,  pass  it 
in  front  of  four  stakes  and  behind  the  fifth,  which 
will  be  the  finish  of  that  stake,  as  shown  at  B.  Lay 
down  the  first  upright  stake  (that  will  be  the  sixth 
from  the  starting  point)  beside  the  finished  stake, 
and  so  continue  these  two  actions,  leaving  a  finished 
top  behind  each  stake,  as  shown  in  Fig.  86,  until  the 
posts  are  reached,  c  shows  the  finish  of  the  second 
stake. 

Work  every  rod  as  tightly  as  possible  ;  the  illus- 
trations show  very  loose  working  to  elucidate  the 
method  for  the  border.  Fig.  87  shows  how  the 
border  is  worked  round  the  posts ;  the  only  differ- 
ence between  this  and  the  border  of  the  grocer's 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  85 

square  basket  described  on  pp.  41  to  43  is  that  in  each 
corner  stick  of  the  latter  a  stake  is  driven,  but  in 
the  case  of  these  chairs  the  posts  must  be  quite  free 
to  allow  them  to  be  driven  through  the  foot  after  it 
is  finished. 

The  bordering  is  simply  worked  round  them,  as 
shown,  and  either  of  the  stakes  (or  both)  at  the  side 
is  laid  down  in  its  turn.  In  Fig.  87,  o  indicates  the 
post  of  the  chair  foot,  D  the  left  side,  E  the  front, 
and  F  the  finished  stakes.  At  G  and  H  the  finishing 
tops  are  not  shown,  in  order  that  the  corners  may 
be  more  clearly  explained. 

To  finish  the  border,  the  last  two  standing  stakes 
are  drawn  in  between  the  first  and  second,  and 


Fig.  88. 


Fig.  88. — Finishing  Bordering;  Fig.  89. — Cramming  down 
Stakes. 

second  and  third,  of  the  laid  down  stakes,  and  pulled 
tightly,  as  shown  in  Fig.  88,  which  is  a  side  view 
of  the  first  laid  stakes,  A  and  B  showing  how  the  last 
two  are  worked  under  the  first  two. 

The  seven  projecting  tops  are  simply  carried 
forward  (each  in  its  turn)  in  front  of  four  stakes, 
gauged,  and  bent  with  the  fingers  and  thumb, 
pointed,  and  crammed  down  beside  the  fifth  stake, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  89,  where  T  is  the  top  and  s  the 
stake.  Do  not  forget  to  wet  these  points,  and  drive 
in  with  the  iron. 

Cut  off  each  top  of  the  finished  stakes  neatly  and 
close  in  the  border,  and  the  ends  of  all  butts  and 
tops,  inside  and  outside  the  foot.  There  are  now 
the  two  posts  projecting  about  12  in.  These  must 
be  well  wetted,  and  driven  through  the  foot  until 


86  BASKET  WORK. 

the  thick  ends  are  about  level  with  the  border.  For 
convenience  the  feet  of  the  chairs  are  worked  up- 
side down.  Now  that  the  posts  have  been  driven 
through,  the  foot  will  stand  in  its  proper  position 
while  the  thin  ends  of  the  posts  stand  up  above  the 
seat  ready  to  be  utilised  in  the  arms.  See  that  the 
foot  stands  firm  on  its  bordered  rim ;  sometimes  one 
or  other  of  the  posts  will  have  to  be  driven  back  a 
trifle,  so  as  to  make  the  foot  stand  quite  firm  on  any 
flat  surface. 

The  back  of  the  chair  is  begun  by  driving  in 
stakes  all  round  the  foot  in  the  upsetting,  beside 


F 

Fig.  'JO.— Bordering  at  Edge  of'Chair  Seat. 

each  stake  that  was  driven  in  the  seat-bow.  Those 
in  the  front  are  only  small  rods,  those  at  the  sides 
are  about  two  sizes  larger,  whilst  the  back  ones 
must  be  very  long,  as  the  back  is  to  be  26  in.  from 
the  seat,  and  the  tops  of  the  stakes  have  to  be 
worked  to  form  the  plaited  border.  Cut  the  points 
of  all  these  stakes  just  the  opposite  side  to  those 
of  the  square  basket  described  in  Chapter  III.  ; 
they  are  forced  in  with  the  two  hands  after  the 
bodkin  has  been  driven  down  where  necessary, 
principally  at  the  curves  and  the  back ;  put  all  the 
points  level  and  dip  them  in  water,  when  they  can 
be  driven  in  easily.  Drive  the  stakes  down  at  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  foot  stakes.  If  the  points  go 
right  through  the  upsetting  for  \  in.  or  J  in.,  do  not 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  87 

trouble  to  cut  them  off  until  the  chair  is  finished, 
when  each  can  be  cut  off  with  the  picking  knife. 
When  all  the  stakes  have  been  driven  in,  one  round 
of  upsetting  will  be  required  ;  this  begins  at  the  left 
side.  (In  referring  to  the  right  and  left  side  it  must 
be  understood  that  the  workman  is  supposed  to  have 
the  front  of  the  chair  before  him.)  Work  the  up- 
setting round  the  front,  piece  it  at  the  opposite  side 
with  three  smooth,  long  stakes,  so  that  they  may  go 
beyond  the  left  post,  and  push  down  a  stake  beside 
the  post  at  the  right  hand.  The  front  stakes  will 


Fig1.  91.— Finishing  Bordering. 

now  have  to  form  a  border  to  give  a  finish  to  the 
chair  and  to  keep  the  cushion  in  position.  Proceed 
with  the  three  upset  rods  round  the  post,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  90;  place  U  behind  the  post,  leaving  it  in 
front  of  the  first  stake  ;  now  B  is  to  be  held  in  front 
of  the  post  while  c  is  crossed  over  B,  placed  behind 
the  first  stake,  and  left  in  front  of  the  second.  Now 
B  is  carried  forward  and  placed  behind  the  second 
clear  stake  and  left  in  front  of  the  third.  Lay  down 
the  stake  beside  the  post  by  the  side  of  B  when  B  is 
finished,  and  c  takes  its  place  in  its  turn.  This 
border  may  be  termed  inside  two  and  outside  two, 
as  each  stake  is  laid  down  behind  the  two  in  front, 
then  in  its  turn  is  placed  in  front  of  two  and  behind 
the  third,  and  left  finished  in  front  of  the  fourth, 


88 


BASKET  WORK. 


and  so  on.  Three  of  the  stakes,  when  worked 
round  the  right-hand  post,  must  be  used  as  in  up- 
setting again  ;  see  Fig.  91,  where  c  is  the  right-hand 
post,  F  the  finished  tops,  and  u  the  continuation  of 
the  upsetting.  If  rather  thin,  piece  them  with 
three  others  and  finish  the  latter  by  pushing  their 
tops  through  the  first  upsetting  and  cutting  them 
off  outside,  F,  Fig.  90,  shows  finished  tops. 

All  the  stakes  in  the  back  and  sides  will  now  re- 
quire by-staking  with  the  exception  of  the  first  be- 
hind each  post.  They  must  correspond  in  thickness 
and  length  with  the  first  stakes.  They  are  pointed 


Fig.  92. — Beginning  "Fetching." 


m  the  same  way,  and  pushed  down  the  upsetting 
at  the  left  side  of  the  former  stakes.  After  the 
pairing,  stand  the  measure  on  the  seat,  and  with  a 
pencil  mark  a  pair  here  and  there,  at  about  7i  in. 
above  the  seat  at  the  sides  and  10  in.  in  middle  of 
back,  as  a  guide  for  the  first  fetch.  The  fetching  is 
begun  at  the  right-hand  post  (see  Fig.  92).  The  two 
tops  of  the  fetch-rods  F  are  bent  round  the  front  of 
post  P,  at  the  same  time  binding  in  the  first  by- 
stake,  then  giving  the  fetch-rods  a  twist  over  again 
and  binding  in  between  them  the  second  by-stake. 
After  this,  bind  in  a  pair  each  time  to  obtain  the 
cross  effect.  The  cross  can  be  kept  regular  by 
giving  either  one  or  two  twists  to  the  fetch-rods 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS. 


89 


before  binding  in  each  pair  of  stakes  S.  The  fetch- 
ing is  now  continued  by  passing  the  first  stake 
forward  behind  the  two  by-stakes,  then  bringing 
the  third  by-stake  to  meet  it,  and  binding  in  to- 
gether ;  this  action  is  continued  round  to  the  oppo- 
site post.  When  about  13^  in.  is  reached,  the 
fetching  must  rise  gradually  round  the  curve,  to  be 
10  in.  above  the  seat  at  the  back,  where  the  butts 
of  the  fetching  must  be  pieced,  then  sloping  round 
the  curve  to  correspond  with  the  opposite  one,  and 
then  straight  at  the  pencil  marks  to  form  the  arm. 
Before  the  post  is  reachd,  push  down  a  stake  to  the 
left  of  it,  bind  in  with  the  post  the  first  or  right- 


Fig.  93.— Working:  Pair  of  Rods  on  Fetch-rods. 


hand  stake  of  the  last  pair,  bend  the  fetch-rod  tops 
neatly  round  the  post,  one  to  the  right  and  the  other 
to  the  left,  and  work  them  back  again,  in  and  out 
along  the  arm ;  then  cut  off  just  the  tips  outside. 

To  give  additional  strength,  it  is  advisable  to 
work  two  other  rods  on  top  of  the  fetching.  Begin 
at  the  post  by  placing  one  of  the  butts  between  the 
post  and  the  first  stake,  then  bring  the  butt  tightly 
round  the  front  of  the  post,  work  it  behind  the  first 
stake,  and  leave  it  in  front  of  the  second.  Pick  up 
the  long  end,  pass  it  over  the  butt  behind  the 
second,  and  leave  it  in  front  of  the  third.  Piece  the 
butt  with  the  second  rod,  and  so  work  up  over  and 
under  each  other,  as  shown  in  Fig.  93.  As  this 
back  is  deeper  than  most,  another  fetch  must  be  put 
round,  about  5  in.  above  the  first,  for  strength ;  of 
course,  the  back  may  be  made  any  height  desired ; 


go  BASKET  WORK. 

if  it  is  20  in.  or  22  in.  only  two  fetches  will  be  re- 
quired, leaving  out  the  middle  one.  The  second 
fetch  is  commenced  at  the  third  and  fourth  pair  of 
stakes,  behind  the  right-hand  post,  by  placing  the 
top  of  one  of  the  fetch-rods  in  front  of  the  third, 
passing  behind  the  fourth,  and  leaving  it  in  front  of 
the  fifth.  Place  the  second  top  in  front  of  the  fourth 
pair,  behind  the  fifth,  and  in  front  of  the  sixth. 
Continue  as  in  the  other  fetching  ;  let  it  rise  gradu- 
ally round  the  curve  to  the  proper  height,  piece  at 
back,  slope  at  the  second  curve  to  correspond  with 
the  first,  and  finish  the  tops  after  the  fashion  of  the 
beginning.  Fig.  94  illustrates  the  beginning  of  the 


Fig.  94. — Beginning  Second  Fetch  on  Chair  Back. 

second  fetch  in  the  back  of  the  chair,  the  starting 
and  rise  of  the  third  fetch  being  clearly  shown  ;  s 
indicates  the  stakes  ;  F  F  is  the  third  pair  of  stakes 
from  the  post.  The  stakes  need  not  be  crossed  in 
this  fetch ;  it  will  be  enough  if  they  are  simply 
paired.  Work  another  pair  of  rods  on  top  of  the 
fetch-rods ;  begin  the  butts  at  the  left  side,  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  fetch-rods  ;  work  them  tightly 
round  the  back,  and  finish  their  tops  at  the  right- 
hand  side.  When  working  from  the  left  to  the  right 
side,  work  inside  the  chair,  kneeling  on  the  seat. 
Any  of  the  fetches  can  be  tapped  either  up  or  down 
to  make  them  look  even,  especially  at  the  curves  or 
shoulders.  A  little  care  and  judgment  are  necessary 
to  get  the  shoulders  to  correspond.  A  beginner 
should  not  hurry  over  them,  as  it  looks  odd  to  see 
in  a  finished  chair  the  plait  of  one  shoulder  nearer 
to  the  front  than  the  other. 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  91 

The  third  and  last  fetch  (H,  Fig.  95)  must  now 
be  put  round  the  back ;  the  stakes  are  crossed  a 
little  differently  and  fetched  in  singly.  First  mark 
the  stakes  at  the  back  with  the  pencil  to  the  de- 
sired height — in  this  chair  24  in. — to  show  where  the 
fetch  has  to  come ;  measure  from  the  seat.  Begin 
the  fetch-rods  as  the  first  set,  at  the  right-hand 
side ;  begin  to  open  the  stakes  at  the  seventh  pair. 
Fig.  95  will  explain  the  crossing  of  this  fetching 
better,  perhaps,  than  any  written  explanation.  The 
pair  of  stakes  are  opened  thus :  First  A  is  bound 
in  the  fetch-rods,  then  c ;  next  pass  B  forward 


Pig.  95.— Crossing  Stakes  in  "Fetching.1 


behind  c  and  in  front  of  E  when  E  is  fetched  in  ;  then 
fetch  in  B.  Now  pass  D  behind  E,  then  in  front  of 
G  when  G  is  bound  in,  and  so  continue  crossing  the 
pairs  round  the  back ;  let  the  slope  of  the  shoulder 
correspond  with  the  first.  From  shoulder  to 
shoulder  let  the  measurement  be  about  21  in.  at  the 
fetch-rods.  To  form  a  graceful  curve  for  the 
shoulders,  of  course  the  fetching  should  be  tightened 
or  slackened,  as  may  be  required,  or  two  twists  may 
be  necessary  occasionally  to  regulate  the  stakes  ; 
also  push  down  an  extra  stake  at  the  side  of  the  last 
pair  to  be  opened  at  the  right  of  them  ;  open  it,  and 
bind  it  in  the  fetch  in  turn ;  it  will  help  to  give  a 
closer  plait.  These  fetch-rods  are  pieced  at  the 
back  similarly  to  the  first  and  second.  The  iron  is 
used  to  obtain  graceful  curved  shoulders  and  back 


? 3  BASKET  WORK. 

to  the  chair  before  proceeding  further.  Next,  from 
the  left-hand  post,  work  a  pair  of  long  rods  on  the 
fetch  round  the  back  as  far  as  they  will  go.  Place 
the  butt  of  one  rod  between  the  left  post  and  the 
first  stakes,  bring  it  round  the  post,  pass  it  behind 
the  first  stakes,  and  leave  it  in  front  of  the  second 
pair.  Pass  the  long  part  of  the  rod  over  the  butt 
behind  the  second  stakes,  piece  the  butt,  and  work 
them  up,  kneeling  on  the  seat.  This  process  also 
is  illustrated  in  Fig.  93,  p.  89. 


Fig.  96. — Plaiting  Border. 

Work,  say,  two  pairs  of  rods  round  the  back, 
beginning  the  butts  of  a  pair  at  either  side,  on  top 
of  and  at  the  rise  of  the  fetching,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
94,  p.  90.  See  that  the  arms  correspond  in  height, 
cut  off  tihe  short  ends  of  the  posts,  and  finish  with  a 
plaited  border.  Carefully  cut  off  the  by-stakes  in 
the  arms,  except  when  the  original  stake  is  thin,  in 
which  case  the  pair  can  be  laid  down  as  one  stake. 
If  the  posts  have  been  cut  from  a  thin  broomstick 
(this  is  excellent  for  the  purpose),  a  hole  must  be 
bored  with  a  gimlet  down  the  centre  for  an  inch  or 
two,  and  a  stake  driven  in ;  this  is  only  required  at 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  93 

the  right-hand  post.  If  the  post  is  a  thin  stick, 
then  the  by-stake  behind  it  answers  instead,  and  is 
not  cut  off  with  the  others.  Wet  all  the  stakes 
thoroughly  two  or  three  times  with  tihe  sponge,  and 
place  the  chair  on  its  side  while  cutting  ten  long^ 
thin  stakes  to  commence  the  plait.  Drive  these  in 
the  upsetting  in  front  of  the  right-hand  post,  and 
commence  plaiting  them,  standing  at  the  side  of  the 
chair.  First  cross  the  pair  A  (Fig.  96)  over  the 
others,  then  B  across  A,  next  c  over  B,  D  over  A  and 
c,  then  E  over  B  and  D,  and  so  continue  as  shown. 
When  the  plait  has  reached  to  the  post  top,  each  pair 


M? 

Fig.  97. — Bending  Stakes  in  Plaited  Border. 


must  be  bent  over  in  its  turn,  to  continue  along  the 
arm ;  two  pairs  pass  inside  and  three  pairs  outside. 
The  plait  in  Fig.  97  will  make  this  plain.  First  pass 
pair  A  over  B  and  c  in  front  of  the  first  upright  stake  ; 
leave  them  behind  the  second  (in  Fig.  97  the  stakes 
are  shown  laid  down).  Bend  D  over  E  and  A  and 
beside  the  first  stake,  which  is  laid  down  with  D  as 
shown  and  held  down  ;  B  is  passed  over  c  and  D  and 
between  the  second  and  third  stakes,  and  left  there  ; 
E  is  passed  over  A  and  B  and  laid  beside  the  second 
stake,  which  is  laid  down  with  E.  The  three  rods 
are  held  down  whilst  c  is  passed  between  the  third 
and  fourth  stakes.  When  D  is  laid  by  the  side  of  the 
first  stake,  and  the  latter  is  laid  down,  there  are 
three  working  rods ;  the  number  must  not  exceed 
three,  as  when  these  are  laid  by  the  side  of  the 


94  BASKET  WORK. 

sixth  stake,  and  the  latter  is  laid  down,  the  work- 
ing rods  have  increased  to  four.  Simply  leave  the 
fourth  (which  will  be  the  thinnest)  in  front  of  the 
next  stake ;  that  will  be  the  finish  of  that  rod  (see 
F,  Fig.  97).  A  top  is  to  be  finished  at  each  stake  as 
the  work  proceeds  in  exactly  the  same  way.  The 
stakes  are  lettered  s. 

At)  the  top  of  the  back  the  stakes  will  be  nearer 
each  other.  If  three  working  rods  cause  cramping, 
work  two  only  by  leaving  a  top  (let  it  be  the  third 
from  the  workman)  inside  as  well  as  the  one  left 
outside ;  or  a  stake  may  be  cut  off  here  and  there, 
and  then  the  three-rod  plait  continued,  which,  of 
course,  looks  better.  On  the  other  hand,  when 
going  down  the  other  shoulder,  where  the  stakes 
may  probably  be  a  trifle  farther  apart  than  any 


Fig.  98.— Splitting  End  of  Rod. 

other  part,  and  the  tops  of  the  back  thinner,  there  is 
no  objection  to  piece  them  here  and  there  by  push- 
ing through  a  pointed  rod  from  the  inside  to  the 
right  of  the  next  three  to  move — of  course,  leaving 
the  fourth,  or  thinnest,  inside,  to  be  cut  off  when 
the  plaiting  is  finished.  Always  push  the  point 
under  the  plait,  where  it  is  not  noticed  in  the  least. 
When  nearing  the  other  post,  drop  one  of  the  three 
working  rods  again  and  finish  with  two,  to  corre- 
spond with  the  first,  and  after  laying  down  the  last 
stake  plait  the  five  pairs  so  that  the  plait  will,  when 
b'ent  down,  over,  and  in  front  of  the  stick,  reach  a 
little  below  it.  The  plait  is  bent  over  the  post,  and 
it  will  then  be  found  that  sufficient  has  been  plaited 
t*  cover  the  same. 

Cut  off  clean  and  make  neat  all  tops,  either 
inside  or  out,  just  under  the  plait,  so  that  they  may 
not  be  noticed,  also  all  butts  in  the  piecing,  and 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  95 

then  bind  the  beginning  and  the  finish  of  the  plait 
to  the  posts  for  a  few  inches  with  two  skeins. 

A  brief  description  of  how  to  produce  the  skeins 
from  the  osiers  may  be  useful.  If  the  worker  does 
not  possess  the  skein  tools,  he  had  better  purchase 
a  length  of  split  cane  and  bind  that  round  instead. 
First  sort  out,  say,  half  a  dozen  smooth,  long  rods, 
then  cut  off  a  few  inches  of  the  tops,  and  with  a 
knife  (a  pocket-knife  answers  well)  just  split  t/he  cut 
top  end  of  the  rod  into  three,  as  shown  in  Fig.  98  ; 


Fig.  99. — Inserting  Cleave  in  Rod. 

serve  each  rod  the  same.  Now  take  the  three- 
cleave  illustrated  by  Fig.  12,  p.  13,  in  the  right  hand, 
the  opened  top  in  the  left,  and  insert  it  as  shown 
in  Fig.  99,  so  that  each  of  the  divided  parts  of  the 
rod  restte  in  a  cut-out  section  of  the  cleave ;  push 
down  the  cleave,  working  the  left  hand  down  as 
well,  but  keeping  the  latter  very  near  the  cleave 
c ;  this  is  an  important  point.  Some  osiers  will 
split  readily,  others  will  require  soaking.  After 
splitting  them,  dip  or  well  wet  them,  take  the  shave 
(Fig.  16,  p.  13),  put  a  leather  cot  on  the  left  thumb, 
sit  a  little  above  the  board,  lay  the  skeins  handy  at 


gtf  BASKET  WORK. 

the  feet,  hold  the  shave  in  the  left  hand  against  the 
left  knee,  with  the  knife  edge  from  the  worker,  and 
put  in  the  top  end  of  a  skein,  remembering  it  is  the 
pith  and  heart  of  the  rod  that  is  to  be  removed, 
not  any  of  the  outside  smooth  part  if  it  can  be 
avoided.  The  shave  must  be  regulated  by  the 
thumbscrew ;  tiie  knife  must  be  raised  at  first  so  as 
just  to  shave  off  a  small  portion  of  the  pith.  Press 


Fig.  100.— Finishing  off  Chair  Post. 


on  the  skein  with  the  covered  thumb  and  draw  the 
skein  through  towards  the  worker — one  at  a  time, 
of  course.  When  they  have  all  passed  through, 
lower  the  knife  a  trifle  and  take  another  shaving  off 
from  end  to  end.  The  osiers  usually  have  to  be  run 
through  three  times,  to  leave  just  the  required 
smooth  outsides.  A  beginner  had  better  run  them 
through  the  shave  four  or  five  times  rather  than  cut 
them  in  two.  Shave  them  while  wet,  press  well 


WICKER  ELBOW-CHAIRS.  97 

with  the  thumb,  and  keep  the  knee  rather  low.     The 
right  hand  clasps  the  skein  lower  after  each  pull. 

The  chair  now  can  be  finished  off.  Cut  the  plait 
so  that  it  may  cover  the  front  of  the  post,  with  just 
the  ends  touching  the  front  border  at  the  seat.  Wet 
a  couple  of  skeins,  and  push  the  wide  end  of  one 
under  the  upsetting,  as  shown  at  u  (Fig.  100) ;  let 
it  rest  against  the  post  p,  pass  the  long  part  behind, 
and  tightly  bind  the  plaiting  to  the  post  as  at  s. 
Finish  the  skein  by  piercing  through  two  of  the 
plait  rods,  or  near  the  outside  of  the  post?,  with  the 
awl.  Push  in  the  skein  top,  draw  it  tight,  and  cut  it 
off,  when  the  chair  will  be  finished. 


CHAPTEK   VIII. 

BASKET  BOTTLE-CASINGS. 

BEFORE  casing  stone  bottles  with  wicker-work,  it 
must  be  decided  if  the  top  part,  from  the  neck  to 
shoulder,  shall  be  covered.  Often  a  name  and 
address  are  stamped  on  that  part  of  the  bottle, 
and  then  the  casing  begins  at  the  bottom  of  the 
jar.  If  there  is  neither  name  nor  handle,  the  top 
is  covered  first,  from  the  neck  to  the  shoulder. 
Some  bottles  are  encased  entirely  with  osiers,  others 
have  cane  bottoms,  and  sometimes  one  or  two  cane 
handles.  In  this  chapter  the  entire  casing  of  a 
one-gallon  bottle  will  be  described. 

First  cut  nine  thin  sticks  a  little  longer  than  the 
distance  from  the  neck  to  the  shoulder.  Take  a 
long  osier  T  B  (Fig.  101)  and  bend  it  to  make  two 
working  strands  round  the  stick  A,  under  the  left 
foot;  next  bind,  or  "fetch"  in,  the  eight  other 
sticks  s,  as  illustrated.  When  the  ninth  stick  has 
been  secured,  take  the  whole  from  under  the  foot, 
and  place  the  fetched  ends  closely  round  the  neck 
of  the  jar,  lap  one  of  the  strands  completely  round 
the  neck  to  give  a  finish  and  hide  the  ends  of  the  nine 
sticks  ;  then,  with  the  two  working  strands  T  B,  bind 
in  the  first  stick  A  (see  Fig.  102),  which  will  then 
lie  next  to  the  ninth  stick  T,  Fig.  102.  After  the 
pairing  in  and  out  of  three  or  four  sticks,  work  a 
slew  of  two  or  three  rods  by  adding  rods  D  (see 
Fig.  103)  until  the  edge  of  the  shoulder  is  reached. 
In  all  slewed  work  the  odd  stake  or  stick  is  very 
convenient,  as,  by  occasionally  putting  in  a  single 
weaving  rod  at  a  time,  as  the  thin  ends  of  the  first 
are  finished,  it  is  possible  to  work  continuously 


BASKET  BOTTLE-CASINGS. 


99 


round  from  the  start  to  the  finished  depth  of  the 
basket  (see  Figs.  102  and  103).  In  Fig.  103  A 
shows  the  jar  mouth,  B  the  sticks,  c  the  com- 
mencement of  slew,  and  F  the  finished  rod. 


Fig.  101. — Beginning  Cap  of  Bottle-casing. 

It  is  advisable  to  work  a  single  rod  round  the 
cap  at  the  shoulder,  and  finish  its  top  by  cramming 
or  pushing  it  in  where  it  began.  With  the  shears 
cut  the  ends  of  the  nine  sticks  neat  and  close,  and 
then  proceed  with  the  body  case.  Cut  four  sticks 
about  3  in.  longer  than  the  diameter  of  the  bottom 
of  the  jar,  cut  each  along  the  middle  of  the  concave 
side  for  2  in.  or  3  in.,  and  tie  them  exactly  as 
described  for  the  round  cob  basket  in  Chapter  IV. , 
p.  49,  using  the  butt  of  the  first  tie  for  the  half-stick. 
If  osiers  are  used,  the  bottom  is  slewed  in  the  same 


Fig.  102.— Working  Strand  round  Bottle  Neck. 

way ;  if  very  thin  cane,  it  is  worked  singly,  adding 
another  layer  in  any  neat,  convenient  way  when 
one  is  finished.  When  the  bottom  is  paired  off,  it 
should  be  just  iin.  larger  than  the  jar  bottom,  so 


100 


BASKET  WORK. 


that  the  casing  may  fit  close  and  neat.  Prepare 
eight  pairs  of  stakes  and  cut  the  points  on  the 
convex  or  outer  sides,  wet  them,  and,  placing  the 
bottom  under  the  left  foot,  push  them  in  at  the 
right  and  left  of  the  ends  of  the  sticks.  Two  of 
the  sticks  receive  only  one  stake  each,  and  these 
should  be  closer  together  than  the  other  sticks. 

To  upset  the  stakes  generally  three  rods  are  used, 
beginning  with  their  butt  ends,  pointed  and  driven 


103.— Plan  of  Cap  of  Casing. 


in  beside  three  of  the  stake  points,  and  then 
worked  as  in  the  three-rod  upsetting.  When  the 
jar  is  fitted  with  a  tap  an  opening  must  be  left  for 
it  to  enter,  as  at  A  (Fig.  104).  After  upsetting,  find 
the  widest  space  between  any  two  pairs  of  stakes, 
and  let  the  projection  at  the  tap-hole  A  come 
between  them.  Now  begin  the  slew  as  in  the 
round  cob  basket  (Chapter  IV.),  turning  the  slew 
round  the  stakes  D,  on  either  side  of  the  tap-hole, 
until  level  with  the  top  of  the  boss,  see  Fig.  104, 


BASKET  BOTTLE-CASINGS.  101 

in  which  c  is  a  single  rod,   doubled  and  worked 
over  the  boss  to  receive  the  odd  stake  E. 

Lap  a  small  osier  round  the  left-hand  stake  at 
the  tap-hole,  so  as  to  make  two  working  strands ; 
twist  them  over  and  over  each  other,  and  bind 
the  right-hand  stake  between  them,  as  shown  at  o 


Fig-.   104. — Part  of  Casing  showing  Tap  Opening. 

(Fig.  104).  Cut  the  strand  and  lay  it  behind  a 
stake,  so  that  it  is  not  noticed.  Cut  a  scallomed 
stake,  as  shown  in  Fig.  105,  and  scallom  it  to  the 
twisted  rod  close  to  the  edge  of  the  boss,  as  shown 
at  E  (Fig.  104).  Add  another  rod  butt  with  the  other 
strand,  and  continue  the  slewing  round  until  the 


Fig.  105.— Scallomed  Rod. 

shoulder  is  reached,  where  the  cap  finished.  The 
three-rod  slew  B  (Fig.  104)  is  kept  regular  by  adding 
another  rod  (butt  end)  on  top  of  the  others,  just 
before  the  top  of  the  bottom  rod  is  finished  out- 
side. Simply  level  the  slewing  by  working  a 
single  rod  round  at  the  shoulder  of  the  jar.  The 
border  must  just  cover  the  edge  of  the  cap.  Lay 
down  four  stakes  A,  B,  c,  D  (Fig.  106),  each  behind 
two  others,  always  working  round  to  the  right  in 


102 


BASKET  WORK. 


bordering ;  the  projecting  tops  of  the  four  rods  are 
each  taken  in  turn,  passed  in  front  of  three  stand- 
ing stakes,  then  behind  the  fourth,  and  left  in 
front  of  the  fifth,  whilst  the  last  standing  stake  to 


Fig.  106. — Border  on  Bottle-casing. 

the  left  is  laid  down  beside  it.  These  two  actions 
are  repeated  right  round  where  the  last  four  or 
five  tops  are  "  crammed  "  beside  those  stakes  that 
were  first  laid  down.  Cut  off  neatly  the  projecting 
tops  of  stakes  close  to  the  border,  and  the  two  han- 
dles can  then  be  worked  on  the  border.  One  rod  or 
cane  is  generally  used  for  each  handle,  and,  of 
course,  the  "  cramming  "  in  of  the  border  is  always 
covered  with  one  of  the  handles ;  the  other  is  then 
put  on  opposite. 


Fig.  107. — Handle  on  Bottle-casing  Border. 


Cut  a  point  to  the  butt 
at  A  (Fig.  107),  and  push  it 
the   border   beside  a  stake 
fashion,  bend  it  to  the  left, 
border   in   front,   using  the 
through  from  the  back  ;  lap 
bow  that  has  been  formed, 


of  each  handle-rod  as 
down  from  the  top  of 
;  now  twist  it  rope- 
and  push  it  under  the 

bodkin,  and  pull  it 
it  three  times  over  the 

then  pass  it  through 


BASKET  BOTTLE-CASINGS.  103 

the  border  to  the  right  of  its  pointed  butt  end ; 
pull  through  again,  lap  it  across  in  the  groove,  as 
shown  by  the  dotted  line  in  Fig.  107 ;  return  it 
through  the  opening  at  E,  and  finish  at  F ;  cut  off 
neat  and  close.  If  worked  tightly  these  single-rod 
handles  often  last  longer  than  the  case.  When  very 
thin  cane  is  used,  work  it  twice  under  the  border  c 
(Fig.  107)  instead  of  returning  at  E ;  it  must  then 
be  finished  at  B. 

In  the  slewing  of  these  casings  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  cut  the  butts  of  the  rods  just  on  the  slant  by 
holding  a  small  handful  level  in  the  left  hand  and 
using  the  shop-knife ;  by  laying  all  in  with  the  cut 
part  next  to  the  jar,  they  will  not  be  so  likely  to 
bulge  the  stakes  outwards.  Cut  off  all  top  ends  of 
the  slewing  rods  outside  clean  and  smooth,  and 
the  case  is  finished.  The  workman  must  stand 
over  the  jar  to  work  the  cap,  steadying  the  jar  with 
his  left  knee  or  in  any  other  convenient  way. 


104 


CHAPTER   IX. 
DOCTORS'  AND  CHEMISTS'  BASKETS. 

A.  DOCTOR'S  or  chemist's  basket  is  made  by  the 
method  about  to  be  described.  First  cut  six  sticks 
each  16  in.  long,  and  put  them  in  a  screw  block, 
first  putting  in  the  two  outer  ones  at  a  distance  of  8 
in.  apart,  outside  measurement.  Fill  in  with  weaving 
for  a  depth  of  13  in.,  which  it  is  best  to  mark  off  with 
a  pencil  when  beginning  the  bottom.  The  method 
of  beginning  the  filling-in  work  is  described  in  the 
chapter  on  making  a  grocer's  basket,  pp.  27  to  30. 

Remove  the  sticks  from  the  block,  finish  off  the 
work  neatly,  and  cut  off  the  ends  of  the  sticks  close. 
The  border  inside  the  basket  is  6j  in.  deep ;  ten 
stakes,  say  of  the  thickness  of  an  ordinary  lead 
pencil,  will  be  required  for  each  side,  and  seven 
for  each  end.  Cut  the  butts  pointed  on  the  outer 
or  convex  side  for  driving  into  the  bottom.  First 
drive  in  the  end  stakes,  one  at  the  side  of  five  of  the 
sticks,  and  two  at  the  third  (one  each  side)  from 
the  right  hand.  When  kneeling  on  the  bottom, 
prick  and  bend  them  up.  Treat  the  other  end  in 
the  same  way  and  pierce  the  side  sticks  with  the 
bodkin  to  receive  the  ten  side  stakes.  Do  not  put 
the  outside  stakes  in  the  sides  too  close  to  the  ends 
as  the  basket  has  corner  sticks,  which  greatly  add 
to  its  appearance.  After  the  ten  stakes  have  been 
pushed  in,  prick  them  up  and  tap  them  in  close 
with  the  flat  part  of  the  iron.  Do  the  same  with 
both  of  the  sides ;  carefully  bend  the  stakes  up 
one  at  a  time  and  place  them  in  a  hoop,  lapping 
a  top  round  the  hoop  at  each  side  to  prevent  the 
latter  working  off.  Cut  four  sticks  about  7  in.  long 


DOCTORS?  AND  CHEMISTS'  BASKETS.       105 

for  the  corners,  and  shave  a  little  off  at  the  thin 
ends  to  rest  against  the  corners ;  then  proceed 
with  the  upsetting  by  placing  the  tops  of  three  rods 
between  the  stakes  in  the  side,  at  the  left-hand 
corner,  and  working  in  exactly  the  same  manner 
as  for  the  grocer's  square  basket  already  described 
(see  Chapter  III.).  The  stakes  should  be  regulated 
in  upsetting ;  this  applies  especially  to  the  two 
stakes  beside  the  third  stick  in  the  ends,  so  that 
one  may  appear  as  a  middle  stake.  The  two  stakes 
at  the  handle  space  on  each  side  also  should  be 
kept  properly  apart,  and  a  few  minutes  spent  in 


A       B 


Fig.  108.— Bordering  Doctor's  Basket. 

straightening  them  after  staking  the  bottom  will 
save  much  trouble.  Two  rounds  of  upsetting  can 
be  put  on,  as  they  will  keep  the  stakes  upright  and 
firm.  Take  one  or  two  stakes  out  of  the  hoop  at 
each  side  of  the  four  corner  sticks,  and,  after  draw- 
ing a  good  double  handful  of  small  rods  to  their 
different  lengths,  proceed  with  the  weaving  as  illus- 
trated by  Fig.  41,  p.  39.  Never  weave  in  rods  as 
thick  as  the  stakes  or  the  work  will  be  a  failure. 
When  a  depth  of  about  5^  in.  (inside)  has  been 
worked  all  round  the  wale  can  be  worked  on.  As 
the  lid  of  the  basket  has  two  flaps,  each  opening 
from  the  end  and  hinged  on  a  bridge  across  the 
handle  spaces,  the  wale  can  be  worked  in  the  same 


ro6  BASKET  WORK. 

way  as  the  upsetting.  One  round  of  six  rods  is 
used,  the  six  tops  overlapping  the  entire  length  of 
the  side  where  they  begin  and  end.  Cut  off  the  ends 
of  the  corner  sticks  and  drive  a  stake  in  the  top  of 
each.  Wet  the  stakes  well  and  commence  the  bor- 
der by  laying  down  the  third  stake  in  the  side  and 
the  three  following,  not  counting  the  left-hand  stake 
in  the  handle  space,  which  is  left  standing  upright. 
This  border  is  worked  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  foot 
rim  of  the  grocer's  square  basket  (see  p.  29),  except 
that  it  is  close  and  even.  In  Fig.  108  the  stakes 
first  laid  down  are  shown  at  A,  B,  c,  and  D  ;  E,  F,  and 
G  are  the  finished  tops  of  A,  B,  c ;  H  is  the  handle 
epace. 

When  the  border  is  finished  a  bridge  is  worked 
across  the  width  of  the  basket  at  the  handle 
spaces.  Point  the  butt  ends  of  two  rods  and  push 
them  down  one  of  the  handle  spaces  as  far  apart 
as  possible.  Then  take  a  weaving-rod,  cut  a  few 
inches  off  its  top  and  push  it  also  down  the  handle 
space ;  bring  it  round  the  right-hand  bridge-rod  B 
(Fig.  109),  then  between  the  rods  and  round  the 
left-hand  rod,  as  illustrated.  Work  up  the  rod  in 
this  manner,  putting  its  butt  end  behind  one  of  the 
bridge  rods,  as  at  D  (Fig.  109).  As  each  rod  is 
worked  up,  push  in  the  top  end  of  another,  as 
shown  at  E,  and  when  sufficient  rods  have  been 
worked  to  form  the  bridge,  carefully  cut  off  the 
butt  ends  of  the  weaving-rods  close  under  the 
bridge.  Bend  the  latter  down,  bend  each 
of  the  bridge-rod  ends  at  right  angles,  point  them, 
and  push  them  down  the  handle  space  at  the 
opposite  side  of  the  basket;  this  will  form  a 
bridge  (Fig.  110)  on  which  the  flap  lid  can  be  tied. 
When  bending  a  rod  to  a  sharp  angle,  as  with  the 
bridge-rod  ends,  always  give  it  a  slight  twist, 
which  will  prevent  it  breaking.  The  foot  rim  is 
put  on  next,  as  described  for  the  square  basket  in 
Chapter  III.  For  the  flap  lids,  two  rods  are  bent  to 


DOCTORS'  AND  CHEMISTS'  BASKETS.       107 

the  shape  of  the  basket  on  each  side  of  the  bridge  ; 
place  the  butt  end  of  one  along  the  side  of  the 
basket,  and  make  two  slight  notches  at  the  corners. 
Bend  the  rod  to  shape,  and  tie  a  strainer  across 
to  keep  it  so,  as  shown  in  A  (Fig.  111).  Cut  six 


Fig.  109.  Fig.  110. 

Figs.  109  and  110.— Working  Bridge  for  Doctor's  Basket. 

scallom-rods  (Fig.  112),  as  shown  at  B  (Fig.  Ill),  and 
lap  them  on  the  bow,  in  the  manner  illustrated  by 
Fig.  111.  The  clear  space  c  is  for  the  staple  at 
each  end  of  the  basket.  First  lap  D  on  the  bow, 
and  then  E  and  F  ;  lap  the  other  three  rods  in  the 


Fig.  111.—  Flap  Lid  for  Doctor's  Basket. 


opposite  direction,  and  weave  in  some  small  rods 
for  about  three  turns  at  each  side  of  the  space,  as 
shown  at  a.  Then  work  a  pair  across  from  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  bow,  placing  a  butt  end 


io8  BASKET  WORK. 

between  the  bow  and  the  first  scallom-rod ;  bring 
the  butt  tightly  round  the  bow,  behind  the  first 
scallom,  and  finish  it  in  front  of  the  second  scallom. 
Now  work  its  top  part  over  it,  behind  the  second 
and  in  front  of  the  third  scallom,  piece  the  finished 
butt  with  another  rod,  and  work  up  the  two  alter- 
nately. Having  thus  formed  the  space  for  the 
staple,  weave  in  single  rods  from  side  to  side, 
working  the  rods  tightly  and  neatly  round  the  bow 
at  each  turn.  To  determine  when  the  flap  is  of 
about  the  correct  size  to  cover  one  side  from  the 
end  to  the  bridge,  place  it  in  position,  and  if  it  is 
within  \  in.  it  will  do,  as  that  amount  will  be  taken 
up  by  the  bordering  of  the  scallom-rod  tops. 

To  finish  the  lid,  perhaps  a  beginner  had  better 
place  it  in  the  screw  block  with  the  rough,  unpicked 
side  facing  the  worker.  Push  in  a  pointed  rod  be- 
side the  bow  at  the  left-hand  side ;  take  another 
small  rod,  and  at  about  7  in.  from  its  butt,  lap  it 
round  the  bow  and  also  round  the  extra  stake. 
Put  its  butt  behind  the  first  scallom-rod,  and  leave 
it  in  front  of  the  second  rod  where  it  is  finished  ; 
the  extra  stake  is  then  laid  down  beside  it.  The 
other  strand  of  the  lapping-rod  is  passed  behind 
the  second  scallom  and  in  front  of  the  third,  and 
the  first  scallom  is  laid  beside  it.  Repeat  these 
two  actions  until  the  sixth  or  last  scallom  is  reached. 
Then  push  down  the  small  bodkin  at  the  side  of 
the  bow  and  pass  the  scallom-rod  that  now  lies  in 
front  of  the  remaining  upright  one  twice  round  the 
bodkin  and  the  bow  (to  correspond  with  the  opposite 
side  of  the  lid),  and  finish  by  laying  it  close  behind 
the  sixth  rod,  which,  as  the  bodkin  is  pulled  out,  is 
bent,  pointed,  and  placed  in  the  position  of  the 
bodkin.  This  secures  everything,  and  the  lid  can 
be  carefully  picked  and  the  ends  of -the  bow  cut  off 
close  as  at  A  (Fig.  113).  The  other  flap  is  made  in 
exactly  the  same  way,  and,  when  this  is  done,  tie 
the  flaps  on  each  side  of  the  bridge.  Pick  out  four 


DOCTORS'  AND  CHEMISTS'  BASKETS.        109 

long  thin  rods,  point  their  butts,  and  use  two  for 
each  flap.  First  push  in  the  bodkin  beside  the 
bordered  scallom  D  (Fig.  113),  wet  one  of  the  rods 
and  slip  it  in  the  weaving.  Hold  the  flap  between 
the  knees,  and  twist  the  rod  rope  fashion ;  about 
4  in.  along  the  weaving,  at  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  scallom,  push  in  the  tip  of  the  twist-rod,  pull 
it  through  from  the  back  of  the  flap,  and  pass  it 
back  to  the  front,  at  the  other  side  of  the  same 
scallom,  two  strands  nearer  its  starting  point.  It 
is  then  formed  as  a  twist  or  band,  as  it  is  called,  by 
twice  lapping  it  round  the  4-in.  length,  pulling  each 


Fig.  112.— Scallom  Eod ;   Fig-.  113.— Finishing-  Lid;  Figs. 
114  and  115. — Forming  Bands  for  Doctor's  Basket. 

lap  very  tightly  (see  Figs.  114  and  115),  then  it  will 
appear  neat  and  even  as  in  Figs.  116  and  117,  where 
A  represents  the  border,  B  the  band  rod,  c  the 
scallom,  D  the  weaving,  and  E  the  part  used  for 
tying  the  flap  to  the  bridge.  Leave  the  band  whilst 
working  the  second  rod  at  E  (Fig.  113)  in  the  same 
way,  when  the  flap  can  be  tied  to  the  bridge.  Wet 
the  ends  of  the  twisted  rods  and  place  the  flap  in 
position,  using  the  bodkin  freely  when  tying.  Push 
the  bodkin  in  the  bridge  weaving,  insert  the  end  of 
the  twisted  rod  and  pull  it  from  inside  the  basket 
through  the  flap  to  the  outside  (tightly),  and  again 
through  the  bridge  up  through  the  flap.  It  is  then 
worked  in  its  groove,  in  the  original  twist  or  band, 
and  cut  off  outside,  where  the  band  rod  first  went 


no  BASKET  WORK. 

through  the  weaving.  The  three  other  tie-rods  are 
worked  in  the  same  way  at  their  respective  posi- 
tions (see  Fig.  118),  where  A  is  one  of  the  bridge 
sticks,  B  the  lid  border,  and  c  the  finished  end  of 
the  band. 

For  the  bow  and  skein  handle,  first  cut  two  small 
sticks  to  form  the  bow,  and  place  them  side  by  side 
in  the  handle  spaces  H  (Fig.  110,  p.  107),  bending  one 
at  a  time,  of  course.  Be  sure  that  they  are  perfectly 
level  at  the  shoulder  bends.  The  highest  part  of 
the  bow  sticks  may  be  about  8  in.,  or  any  other 
desirable  height  from  the  bridge.  Cut  a  scallomed 
rod  and  push  its  cut  part  under  the  border  in  front 
of  the  bow,  and  up  through  the  top  of  the  border, 
in  contact  with  the  bow  front  at  Figs.  119  and  120, 
where  A  is  the  border,  B  the  bow,  c  the  scallam- 
rod,  and  D  the  skein.  Push  the  wide  end  of  a 
soaked  skein  behind  the  bows,  bring  it  over  the 
border  at  the  left-hand  side,  pass  it  over  the 
scaHom-rod,  and  under  the  border  at  the  right ; 
then  bring  it  over  at  the  same  side,  cross  it  over, 
and  pass  it  under  the  border  at  the  left  side. 
Again  bring  it  over  the  front  and  lap  it  round  the 
bows  and  scallom-rod  six  or  seven  times,  working 
upwards  ;  then  pass  the  skein  behind  the  scallom- 
rod,  as  shown  at  E  (Fig.  120).  After  lapping  the 
bows  and  scallom  together  for  three  turns,  again 
pass  them  under  the  scallom  once,  and  so  on. 
About  3  in.  or  4  in.  from  the  finishing  side  the 
scallom-rod  must  be  twisted  rope  fashion  and 
pushed  under  the  border  in  front ;  then  pull  it  up 
tightly  beside  the  bows,  to  correspond  with  the 
beginning.  Proceed  by  lapping  all  the  bows,  etc., 
close,  and  finish  off,  to  correspond  with  the  other 
side,  by  pulling  the  skein  between  the  scallom  and 
border  once  or  twice  and  cutting  it  off;  then  it 
will  be  quite  secure.  As  the  handle  will  take 
several  skeins,  the  piecing  is  shown  in  Fig.  121. 
The  end  A  is  pointed,  and  pushed  in  the  lapping 


DOCTORS'  AND  CHEMISTS'  BASKHTS.       in 

under  the  bows  for  about  2  in.  at  2  in.  from  the 
end  of  a  finished  skein  B.  Bend  both  at  right 
angles,  as  shown,  the  skein  A  taking  the  place  of  B, 
and  bind  the  latter  firmly  out  of  sight. 

The  bows  should  be  pegged  by  piercing  through 
the  wale  in  a  line  with  the  border  and  just  under 
it,  at  both  sides  of  the  basket.  A  pointed  short 


Fig.  122. 


Fig.  121. 


Figs.  116  to  118. — Forming  Bands  for  Doctor's  Basket; 
Figs.  119  and  120. — Lapping  Handle ;  Fig.  121. — Piecing 
Skeins;  Fig.  122.— Staple. 

piece  of  rod  is  tapped  in  and  cut  off  slanting  so  as 
not  to  catch  in  anything.  The  staples  are  pieces 
of  rod  bent  closely  round  the  bodkin  as  shown  in 
Fig.  122  ;  put  them  in  the  basket  ends  so  that  they 
project  through  the  space  in  the  flap-lid,  and  use 
the  bodkin  to  get  them  in  the  border,  one  on  each 
end,  at  the  middle  stake,  finally  pushing  themdo\vn 
and  pegging  them. 


112 


CHAPTER  X. 

FANCY    BASKETS. 

THE  elementary  instruction  given  in  Chapter  II.  is 
concerned  with  fancy  work,  and  now  some  further 
information  on  the  subject  can  be  given.  It  is 
obvious  from  a  glance  at  the  illustrations  that  ac- 
company this  chapter  that  all  kinds  of  articles  can 
be  made  in  basket>work.  A  rubbish  basket,  for 
instance,  may  be  made.  With  a  rope  edge  at  the 
top  this  basket  requires  such  long  oanes  as  to  be 
worked  with  difficulty,  the  long  canes  being  very  un- 
manageable ;  but  there  is  thick  cane  (No.  16),  flat 
on  one  side,  which  is  very  suitable,  and  this  can  be 
obtained  in  10  in.  lengths,  exactly  the  right  height 
for  a  rubbish  basket.  Begin  by  making  a  close 
round  bottom  about  9  in.  in  diameter,  and  finish 
it  with  a  thick  rope  edging.  Then  take  the  flat 
canes,  which  can  be  used  dry  without  soaking,  and 
stick  them  rather  close  together  into  the  bottom  of 
the  basket,  between  the  weaving  strands,  about 
1  in.  or  l£  in.  from  the  edge.  If  the  bottom  is  very 
close  and  firm  they  will  stand  upright  quite  easily, 
and  after  a  few  rows  of  weaving  they  will  be  as  firm 
as  possible.  The  bottom  of  the  basket,  being 
damp,  will  shrink  in  drying,  and  hold  the  uprights 
quite  tightly.  Weave  the  sides  of  the  basket  as 
usual  till  within  2  in.  of  the  top ;  then  cut  pieces 
of  No.  8  cane  long  enough  to  make  the  rope  edging, 
and  push  them  down  about  1  in.  by  the  side  of 
each  upright.  Weave  to  the  very  top  of  the  uprights, 
then  use  the  No.  8  stakes  for  the  rope-twist.  It  is 
u  little  monotonous  to  weave  a  whole  rubbish  basket 
alike  all  the  way  up,  but  variety  can  be  introduced 


FANCY  BASKETS.  113 

easily.  Weave,  say,  2  in.  in  the  usual  way ;  then 
introduce  a  second  strand,  and  weave  another  2  in. 
with  two  strands  together,  one  above  the  other ; 
then  do  another  band  of  plain  weaving,  and  so  on. 
Or  there  is  another  material  known  as  "insides" 
or  "  flat  pulp."  This  makes  a  nice  variety,  woven 
in  alternate  bands  with  the  round  cane.  It  is  to  be 
had  in  two  widths,  \  in.  or  \  in.  wide,  Nos.  40  and 
50.  It  can  also  be  had  in  black,  but  the  black  dye 


Fig1.  123. — Open-work  Design. 


comes  off  on  the  hands.  Straw  plait  woven  in  gives 
variety,  or  plaited  chip,  which  can  be  had  in  all 
colours  at  kindergarten  shops.  Green  rush  plait 
also  can  be  used. 

Open-work  patterns  are  effective,  and  one  is 
shown  by  Fig.  123.  Work  as  usual  till  the  sides  of 
the  basket  are  about  1  in.  high,  then  finish  off  with 
a  row  of  twist  (Fig.  25,  p.  20).  Leave  a  space  of 
about  an  inch  (or  more  if  a  big  basket),  and  begin 
again  with  a  row  of  twist ;  to  do  this  measure  on 
a  weaving  strand  rather  more  than  the  circumfer- 

H 


ii4  BASKET  WORK. 

ence  of  the  basket,  double  the  strand  at  that  dis- 
tance from  the  end,  loop  it  round  an  upright,  and 
work  the  twist  as  before  (Fig.  124),  fasten  off  the 
short  end  when  the  row  is  finished,  and  continue 
weaving  with  the  long  end.  Having  finished  the 
basket,  bend  over  the  stakes  for  a  "  trellis-work " 


Fig.  124. — Spoke  and  Twist  Design. 

edging  ;  but  instead  of  pushing  them  straight  down 
make  them  cross  the  open  space,  as  in  Fig.  123. 
Another  variety  of  this  pattern  is  made  by  using 
very  fine  cane  for  the  cross  bars  in  the  open  part. 
Work  the  upper  row  of  twist  as  in  Fig.  124,  and 
two  rows  of  weaving  above  it ;  then  take  some  very 


Fig.  125. — Crossed  Open-work  Design. 

fine  cane — say  No.  00 — push  in  one  piece  at  A 
(Fig.  125),  take  it  across  the  open  space,  and  push 
it  down  at  B.  Then  put  in  another  piece  at  c,  take 
it  across  to  D,  thus  making  a  crossways  pattern 
in  each  open  space,  as  shown  at  H  in  Fig.  125. 
Repeat  this  in  each  space,  or  in  alternate  spaces, 
all  round  the  basket.  If  long  ends  are  left  of  the 


FANCY  BASKETS.  115 

fine  cane,  each  of  the  original  uprights  will  have  a 
fine  cane  on  each  side  of  it,  as  at  s.  Continue 
weaving  to  the  top  of  the  basket,  treating  each 
group  as  though  it  were  only  one  upright,  and  this 
will  hold  the  fine  cane  firmly.  To  finish  the  basket, 
make  a  twist  outside,  using  only  the  original  thick 
canes  (the  thin  ones  can  be  curled  round  inside 
the  basket  to  be  out  of  the  way),  and  when  that 


II 


Fig.  126.— Zigzag  Pattern. 


is  done,  make  a  twist  inside  the  basket  of  the  fine 
canes  ;  this  makes  a  pretty  double  border. 

A  great  variety  of  fancy  patterns  can  be  made 
hi  the  style  illustrated  by  Fig.  126.  It  looks  best  to 
have  a  large  number  of  uprights  very  close 
together,  and  to  use  a  double  strand  for  weaving. 
For  the  pattern  shown  at  Fig.  126  the  number  of 
uprights  must  be  divisible  by  twelve,  that  being 
the  number  required  for  each  repetition  of  the 
pattern.  The  pattern  is  really  all  alike  in  each 


n6  BASKET  WORK. 

row — over  four,  under  one,  over  three  ;  under  one, 
over  one,  under  four.  In  the  second  row  this  is  re- 
peated, only  beginning  one  upright  more  to  the  right, 
and  so  on  till  it  is  time  to  turn  ;  then  work  the  next 
row  one  spoke  to  the  left,  and  each  row  one  more  to 
the  left,  so  that  the  pattern  will  go  in  zigzags.  Fig. 
126  explains  this  more  clearly  than  any  written 
description  can. 

Knitting  patterns  will  often  suggest  ideas  for 
this  kind  of  "  fancy  stitch,"  and  cross-stitch 
patterns  of  a  simple  kind  also  can  be  worked  out 
in  fine  weaving. 


Fig.  127.— Sewing. 

The  lid  of  a  fancy  basket  is  like  the  bottom,  the 
weaving  being  pulled  rather  tight  to  make  the  lid 
slightly  hollow ;  but  a  lid  will  not  fit  neatly  on  a 
twisted  edge,  therefore  both  the  top  of  the  basket 
and  the  edge  of  the  lid  should  be  finished  with  a 
flat  binding.  Some  use  "pink  tie"  for  binding, 
this  being  the  cane  used  for  chair  seats,  shiny  on 
one  side  ;  but  the  shiny  surface  is  apt  to  flake  off, 
and  it  is  always  a  darker  colour  than  the  basket. 
A  far  nicer  material  is  the  "  insides  "  or  "  flat  pulp  " 
mentioned  before ;  it  is  the  same  colour  as  the 
round  cane,  but  flat.  To  bind  a  basket,  finish  the 
weaving  with  a  row  of  twist  (Fig.  25,  p.  20),  and 
cut  off  the  uprights  close  above  it.  Cut  two  pieces  of 
the  flat  cane  to  the  measurement  of  the  circum- 
ference of  the  basket,  and  hold  them  face  to  face, 


FANCY  BASKETS. 


one  on  each  side  of  the  uprights.  Then,  with  a 
longer  piece  of  the  flat  stuff,  sew  them  tightly  round 
the  basket  by  pushing  one  end  of  the  sewing  piece 
through  the  side  of  the  basket  about  two  strands 
from  the  top,  then  over  both  the  binding  pieces  and 
again  through  the  basket,  exactly  like  ordinary 
sewing.  About  two  stitches  between  each  spoke 
will  be  found  the  best,  as  the  sewing  should  be 
done  close.  The  binding  pieces  must  be  pulled 
tight  as  the  sewing  goes  on.  Fig.  127  helps  to 


Fig.  128. 


iprs.  128  and  129.— Basket 
Frame. 


explain  the  sewing.  The  edge  of  the  lid  should  be 
bound  in  exactly  the  same  way,  and  should  be 
made  a  trifle  larger  than  the  top  of  the  basket.  It 
can  easily  be  fastened  on  with  a  piece  of  the  sewing 
material  for  a  hinge.  A  glance  at  any  basket  with 
a  lid  will  show  how  this  is  done.  Headers  who 
have  mastered  the  more  useful  and  practical  work 
described  in  former  chapters  will  have  no  difficulty 
here. 

One  kind  of  square  or  oblong  fancy  basket  is 
made  on  a  frame  of  thick  cane  (No.  8  or  No.  9). 
Bend  it  into  a  square  by  pinching  the  corners,  and 
tie  the  ends,  which  should  overlap,  with  thin  string, 
as  in  Fig.  128. 


n8  BASKET  WORK. 

Cut  the  uprights  as  usual,  long  enough  to  go 
down  one  side  of  the  basket,  across  the  square 
bottom,  and  up  the  other  side,  and  tie  them  with 
string  to  the  bottom  of  the  frame,  leaving  the  other 
ends  free  (Fig.  129).  With  a  No.  3  oane  weave  back- 
wards and  forwards  across  the  frame,  taking  in  the 
sides  of  the  frame  also.  After  a  few  rows  of  weaving 
insert  a  cane  right  across,  long  enough  for  the  sides 
of  the  basket ;  weave  a  few  more  rows  and  insert 
another  long  cane,  and  so  on  at  even  distances  till 


181. 

Fig.  130.— Bottom  of  Oblong  Basket  j  Fig.  131. — Square 
Fancy  Basket. 

the  frame  is  quite  filled.  Then  cut  away  the  string 
and  this  square  piece  will  be  the  bottom  of  the 
basket  (Fig.  130). 

The  sides  can  now  be  turned  up,  not  over  the 
frame,  but  away  from  it,  and  a  thick  stake  must  be 
stuck  upright  in  the  very  corner  of  the  frame,  as 
shown  by  the  white  circles  in  the  corners  of  Fig 
130.  The  canes  may  be  turned  quite  upright  01 
sloping  outwards,  according  to  the  shape  required 
Straight  sides  are  the  easier. 


FANCY  BASKETS.  119 

The  weaving  is  done  just  as  in  a  round  fancy 
basket,  only  pinching  the  weaving-strand  at  each 
corner  when  it  comes  outside  the  thick  spoke,  to 
make  the  corners  sharp.  As  there  is  an  even  num- 
ber of  spokes,  two  weaving-strands  must  be  used  ; 
one  had  better  be  rolled  up,  or  they  will  get  very 
much  entangled.  When  the  sides  are  done,  the 
loose  sides  of  the  frame  should  be  sewn  to  the  bas- 
ket to  make  a  neat  finish.  See  Fig.  127,  p.  116,  for 
the  way  to  do  the  sewing. 

An  uncommon  kind  of  square  fancy  basket  is 
illustrated  by  Fig.  131.  It  must  be  made  in  toler- 
ably fine  cane,  say  No.  1,  of  which  a  large  quantity 
will  be  required.  The  uprights  are  all  of  the  fine 
cane  ;  they  must  be  cut  very  long,  and  arranged 
as  in  Fig.  132.  The  crossway  canes,  in  groups  of 
six,  should  be  laid  on  a  table,  with  weights  at  each 
end  to  keep  them  steady.  Then  the  longway  canes, 
in  groups  of  three,  are  threaded  in  and  out,  and 
pushed  quite  close  together,  while  the  crossway 
canes  remain  at  some  distance  apart.  A  string  tied 
across  each  end  will  be  found  a  great  help  in  arrang- 
ing this  ;  it  can,  be  cut  away  afterwards. 

With  two  weaving-strands  of  No.  1  cane  make  a 
row  of  twist  all  round  to  keep  it  all  together ;  but 
as  there  are  too  many  uprights  at  the  ends,  each 
pair  of  bundles  must  be  overlapped  and  used  as  one 
group ;  this  being  shown  at  the  upper  end  of 
Fig.  132.  This  helps  to  make  the  uprights  firm  ;  but 
if  it  seems  clumsy,  some  of  them  may  be  cut  short. 
The  side  canes,  on  the  contrary,  are  much  too  far 
apart,  therefore  more  groups  of  six  must  be  in- 
serted at  A,  B,  and  c  on  each  side,  as  shown  in  the 
diagram,  Fig.  132.  There  will  be  difficulty  in  getting 
all  this  fixed.  However,  when  it  has  been  done, 
weave  round  and  round,  keeping  the  work  flat  on  a 
table  till  it  is  the  right  size  for  the  bottom  of  the  bas- 
ket. Two  or  three  rows  of  twist  may  be  done  before 
the  weaving ;  it  helps  to  keep  everything  in  its  place. 


120  BASKET  WORK. 

Turn  up  the  sides  as  usual  (they  will  come  up 
best  if  a  binding  is  sewn  round  the  bottom,  as  in 
Fig.  127,  p.  116),  and  stick  in  a  short  thick  stake  of 
No.  8  cane  at  each  corner.  Weave  as  usual,  pinch- 
ing the  corners  whilst  weaving  till  the  basket  is 
about  two-thirds  of  the  required  height,  and  finish 
the  weaving  as  usual  with  a  row  of  twist.  Now  there 
are  numerous  uprights  in  groups  of  six.  Divide  each 
group  in  half,  and  use  three  at  a  time  for  a  looped 
edging,  with  a  broad  flat  plait  below  it  (Fig.  131). 
Take  a  group  of  three  uprights,  bend  them  to  the 
right,  and  pass  them  behind  three  groups,  in  front 
of  two  groups,  behind  two  groups,  in  front  of  two 
groups,  and  behind  one  group,  the  ends  now  com- 
ing down  outside  the  basket.  Always  remember 
that  each  group  now  consists  of  only  three  uprights, 
so  that  each  large  set  must  be  divided  as  the 
worker  proceeds. 

Continue  this  all  round,  taking  each  set  of  three 
uprights  behind  3,  in  front  of  2,  behind  2,  in 
front  of  2,  and  out  behind  1.  When  this  is  done 
all  round,  pull  down  the  uprights  till  the  edge 
is  quite  even  all  round,  and  then  make  the  plait. 
Take  each  upright  in  turn,  and  pass  it  under  two 
to  the  right.  Do  this  all  round,  and  the  ends  will 
now  all  be  pointing  upwards,  still  outside  the 
basket.  Pull  them  all  as  tight  as  they  will  con- 
veniently go,  and  get  them  even  all  round.  Now 
again  pass  each  upright  under  2,  downwards  to 
the  right ;  pull  them  tight  all  round,  and  the  plait 
should  lie  flat  against  the  basket  just  below  the 
looped  edging,  with  the  ends  pointing  downwards. 
When  dry,  cut  off  the  ends  in  the  middle  of  the 
plait  as  close  as  possible. 

A  handle  may  be  made  of  two  long  pieces  of 
No.  8  cane,  closely  bound  round  with  the  flat 
"insides,"  or  with  "pink  tie."  Fasten  one  end 
firmly  in  one  corner,  and  the  other  end  in  the 
opposite  corner  diagonally  across  the  basket.  Pre- 


FANCY  BASKETS. 


121 


pare  another  similar  handle,  and  fasten  it  in  the 
other  two  corners,  making  it  cross  the  first  handle 
in  the  middle,  where  the  two  must  be  fastened 
together. 

An  effective  way  of  binding  a  handle  is  to  place 
two  or  three  lengths  o£  thick  cane  side  by  side  ; 


Fig.   132. — Weaving  Square  Fancy  Basket. 

wind  round  with  "  insides,"  or  "  pink  tie,"  say,  five 
times  ;  then  push  the  binding-piece  under  one  of  the 
foundation  pieces,  and  bind  only  two  together  for 
three  stitches.  Then  wind  over  all  the  pieces  five 
stitches  more,  and  repeat  this  for  the  whole  length 
(Fig.  133). 

Oval   baskets   can   be  made   with   a  foundation 


122  BASKET  WORK. 

adapted  from  Fig.  132,  with  six  or  eight  long-way 
pieces,  of  No.  3  cane,  and  six  sets  of  three  for  cross- 
way  spokes,  the  weaving  being  done  with  No.  1  or 
No.  0.  This  avoids  a  raised  ridge. 

Dolls'  furniture  in  basket-work  is  made  with  fine 
cane,  unless  the  articles  are  to  be  of  large  size. 

For  a  doll's  garden  chair  (Fig.  134)  use  No.  4 
cane  for  uprights,  and  No.  0  for  weaving.  The  seat 
is  done  first,  on  a  square  frame  (Fig.  128,  p.  117), 
the  back  end  being  a  trifle  narrower  than  the  front. 
Having  filled  the  frame,  turn  up  the  thicker  canes 
and  weave  a  few  rows,  about  six,  finishing  with  a 
row  of  twist.  Leave  a  space,  begin  again  with  a 
row  of  twist,  weave  six  more  rows,  and  finish  off  by 
bending  each  of  the  spokes  in  turn  behind  one,  in 


»/jflJ&^^^ 


fig.  133.— Handle  for  Fancy  Basket. 


front  of  one,  behind  one,  in  front  of  one,  behind  one. 
All  the  ends  are  now  inside,  and  can  be  cut  off.  This 
is  the  base  of  the  chair.  Stand  it  down  with  the 
seat  uppermost.  Now  put  in  stakes  for  the  arms 
and  back,  by  pushing  them  down  into  the  upper 
rows  of  weaving  on  three  sides  of  the  seat,  leaving 
the  front  open.  Weave  a  few  rows  backwards  and 
forwards,  turning  back  when  the  last  spoke  is 
reached.  After  a  few  rows  finish  with  a  row  of 
twist ;  leave  a  space  and  begin  weaving  again,  to 
match  the  base.  Make  another  narrow  band  of 
weaving  as  shown  in  Fig.  134,  leave  a  second  space, 
and  then  bend  over  the  spokes  to  finish  the  top. 
This  should  be  done  higher  at  the  back  than  in  front. 
Each  spoke  goes  behind  one,  in  front  of  two,  behind 
one,  in  front  of  one,  behind  one.  This  must  be 
done  on  each  side,  starting  from  the  opposite  ends, 
so  as  to  make  the  two  sides  match,  and  the  middle 


FANCY  BASKETS. 


1*3 


spokes  must  be  pushed  in  anywhere  to  make  a  neat 
finish.  Of  course,  both  the  basje  and  back  could  be 
done  entirely  in  close  weaving  if  preferred,  but  leav- 
ing spaces  as  described  makes  the  chair  look  lighter. 
Another  kind  of  doll's  chair  is  shown  by  Fig.  135. 
Begin  with  a  round  flat  piece  as  for  an  ordinary 
basket.  When  it  is  large  enough  for  the  seat  of  the 
chair,  turn  up  the  uprights  and  weave  the  sides, 
drawing  the  weaving  tighter  and  tighter  till  the  up- 
rights are  quite  close  together;  then  gradually 


Fig.  134. 


Fig.  135. 


Fig.  134.— Doll's  Garden  Chair ;  Fig.  135.— Doll's  Round 
Chair. 

spread  them  again  until  the  shape  resembles  an  hour- 
glass, and  finish  off  with  a  rope  edge.  This  makes  a 
capital  round  stool,  but  to  make  it  into  a  chair  it 
must  have  a  back.  Run  in  new  stakes  for  the  back, 
either  flat  into  the  seat  or  perpendicular  into  the 
sides,  leaving  a  space  for  the  front,  and  weave  back- 
wards and  forwards  for  the  sides  and  back.  The 
back  is  made  higher  by  putting  in  more  rows  of 
weaving.  When  the  sides  are  high  enough,  leave 
out  the  first  upright  on  each  side  ;  in  the  next  row 
leave  out  two  uprights  on  each  side,  and  so  on  till  the 
back  slopes  up  nicely.  Finish  with  a  rope  edge,  or 
any  other  preferred. 


124  BASKET  WORK. 

For  a  doll's  cradle  (Fig.  136)  make  a  shallow  oval 
basket,  having  the  uprights  at  one  end  much  longer 
than  the  rest  to  form  the  hood.  Turn  up  the  sides, 
and  finish  with  a  trellis-work  edge  drawn  close  down 
upon  the  weaving.  This  edge  must  not  be  done  all 
round ;  the  part  for  the  hood  must  be  left,  and  the 
weaving  continued.  For  the  hood,  weave  backwards 
and  forwards  a  few  rows ;  then  work  as  shown  in 
Fig.  137  in  order  to  raise  the  weaving  higher  in  the 
middle.  Work  a  few  rows  plain,  all  across,  and 
again  raise  the  middle,  repeating  this  till  the  hood 
is  sufficiently  large.  Bend  the  front  spoke  on  the 


Fi#.  136.— Doll's  Cradle. 

right  across  the  front  of  the  hood  and  push  it  down 
by  the  side  of  the  front  spoke  on  the  left.  Take 
the  left  front  spoke  and  push  it  down  in  the  same 
way  on  the  opposite  side ;  this  makes  a  good  firm 
rim  for  the  hood.  Each  remaining  spoke  must  be 
turned  over  this  front  rim  and  pushed  back  upon 
itself  to  make  a  neat  edge. 

A  doll's  table  can  be  made  like  Fig.  138.  The 
top  is  a  round  flat  piece,  finished  with  a  rope  edge. 
For  the  legs  take  two  pieces  of  cane,  No.  4  or  5, 
and  having  made  the  middle  of  the  table  as  in  Fig. 
139,  push  in  one  end  of  one  piece  at  the  opening,  A, 
and  the  other  end  at  B.  In  the  same  way  push  down 
the  second  piece  at  c  and  D,  pulling  the  four  ends 
down  underneath  the  table  till  the  top  is  quite  flat. 


FANCY  BASKETS.  125 

Each  of  these  ends  must  be  twice  the  height  of  the 
table.  Turn  the  table  upside  down  with  the  legs 
pointing  upwards,  and  weave  a  few  rows  to  spread 


Fig.  137.  Fig.  138. 

Fig.  137.— Hood  of  Cradle;  Fig.  138.-  Doll's  Table. 

them  outwards.  The  best  way  is  to  twist  the  weav- 
ing strand  right  round  each  upright  in  turn,  and 
three  or  four  rows  of  this  will  be  sufficient.  Or 


Fig.  140.  Fig.  141. 

Figs.  139  to  141.— Constructing  Doll's  Table. 

another  way  is  to  weave  backwards  and  forwards 
three  rows  between  spokes  1  and  2  ;  repeat  the  same 
between  spokes  2  and  3,  then  between  3  and  4,  then 
between  4  and  1.  Each  leg  is  finished  separately, 


126 


BASKET  WORK. 


and  to  do  this,  double  one  spoke  into  a  loop  of  the 
length  required  for  the  height  of  the  table,  cut  it, 
and  push  the  end  into  the  weaving  just  done  ;  then 
weave  backwards  and  forwards,  filling  up  the  loop 
as  closely  as  possible,  as  shown  in  Fig.  140;  and 
when  the  loop  is  filled,  fasten  off  the  end  of  the 
weaving  strand  by  pushing  it  in  somewhere.  The 
loop  must  be  filled  much  closer  than  is  illustrated ; 
it  is  drawn  loosely  worked  to  show  how  the  weaving 
is  done,  but  when  properly  filled  it  must  appear  as 


Fig.  142. 


Fig.  143. 


Fig.  144. 


Fig.  142.— Fire  Screen  ;  Fig.  143.— Basket  Work  of  Screen; 
Fig.   144. — Screen  Stand. 

in  Fig.  141.  Work  all  four  legs  in  the  same  way, 
taking  great  care  that  they  are  all  exactly  the  same 
height,  as  otherwise  the  table  will  not  stand  steadily. 
A  fire-screen  for  real  use  is  shown  by  Fig.  142. 
Make  a  round  flat  piece  of  weaving  with  as  many 
main  canes  as  can  be  worked  with,  keeping  it 
as  flat  as  possible.  Weave  round  and  round  till 
the  radials  or  thicker  canes  get  too  far  apart,  and 
when  that  happens,  push  in  stakes,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  143,  one  on  each  side  of  each  of  the  radials. 
Fig.  143  shows  how  thirteen  radials  have  been  in- 
creased to  thirty-seven.  Go  on  weaving,  still  keep- 
ing it  quite  flat,  till  more  stakes  are  required.  In- 


FANCY  BASKETS. 


127 


sert  these  again  in  the  same  way,  and  so  continue 
till  there  is  a  flat  circular  piece  2  ft.  or  more  in 
diameter.  Finish  this  with  a  thick  rope  edge,  as 
firmly  as  possible.  An  iron  stand  resembling  Fig. 
144  will  have  to  be  made.  Push  the  long  spike  of 
the  stand  right  up  into  the  weaving  as  far  as  the 
middle  ;  this  should  be  done  before  the  rope  edge 
is  made,  so  that  the  rope  holds  it  quite  tight.  Paint 
the  iron  stand  to  match  the  basket-work,  or  else 
cover  it  entirely  with  "  flat  pulp  "  wound  closely 


Fig.  145.— Paper  Rack. 

round  it.  Finish  off  with  a  bow  of  ribbon,  as  sug- 
gested in  Fig.  142.  If  the  iron  rod  is  rather  thick 
and  cannot  be  pushed  in,  one  or  more  of  the  spokes 
can  be  cut  close  to  the  middle  and  pulled  out,  and 
the  iron  inserted  in  the  space  thus  made.  This 
screen  stands  on  the  floor.  Hand-screens  can  be 
made  in  much  the  same  Avay,  with  black  and  gold 
handles,  which  can  be  bought  for  a  small  sum. 

In  making  a  paper  rack,  Fig.  145,  begin  with  the 
flat  bottom  on  which  the  papers  stand.  This  is  made 
on  a  rectangular  frame,  like  the  bottom  of  a  square 
basket  (see  Fig.  128,  p.  117).  Fill  the  frame  by 
weaving  backwards  and  forwards ;  and  to  finish  off 


128 


BASKET   WORK. 


the  thicker  canes  fold  them  over  the  frame  at  the 
ends,  and  run  them  back  into  the  weaving.  No 
cross  canes  are  required.  When  the  bottom  is  done, 
push  through  it  at  one  side  a  sufficient  number  of 
stakes,  as  in  Fig.  146,  but  preferably  there  should  be 
an  even  number.  The  end  stakes  must  be  one  piece 
of  cane  bent  over  :  this  makes  the  handle  ;  the  others 
are  single  pieces  (see  Fig.  147).  Now  weave  the 
side,  backwards  and  forwards,  to  the  height  re- 
quired, and  finish  with  a  looped  edge,  as  shown  in 


Fig.  146.  Fig.  147. 

Figs.  146  and  147. — Constructing  Paper  Rack. 

Fig.  145.  Stake  B,  Fig.  147,  is  pushed  down  by  the 
side  of  A,  c  by  B,  D  by  c,  E  by  D  ;  then  a  false  spoke 
must  be  added  to  make  the  loop  between  E  and  p. 
Work  the  other  side  of  the  rack  exactly  to  match. 

Turn  the  whole  thing  upside  down,  and  weave  a 
few  rows  for  the  band  below  the  bottom,  to  make 
it  steady.  This  also  is  to  be  finished  with  a  looped 
edge,  as  illustrated,  both  sides  alike. 

If  the  rack  is  to  have  a  division  in  the  middle, 
stakes  must  be  pushed  through  in  the  middle  of  the 
bottom,  and  a  piece  worked  exactly  like  the  sides. 
It  will  be  easier  to  do  this  first  and  the  sides  after- 
wards. A  piece  below  the  bottom  should  also  be 


FANCY  BASKETS. 


129 


woven  at  the  two  ends,  to  hold  the  sides  upright. 
Push  both  ends  of  a  stake  downwards  through  the 
bottom,  and  draw  them  down  tightly  ;  each  piece  of 
cane  will  thus  make  two  stakes. 

If  the  rack  is  a  large  one,  the  handle  can  be  made 
much  thicker  by  inserting  two  extra  pieces  of  cane 
by  the  side  of  it  and  binding  the  three  together,  as 
in  Fig.  148,  with  either  "  pink  tie  "  or  "  flat  pulp." 

Variety  can  be  given  by  making  a  close  bottom 


Fig.  148. 


Fig.  149. 


Fig.  148. — Paper  Rack  Handle  ;   Fig.  149. — Open-work 
Side  for  Paper  Rack. 

and  open-work  sides  to  the  paper-rack.  This  could 
be  lined  with  bright-coloured  material  (see  Fig.  149). 
A  doll's  bedstead  (Fig.  150)  can  be  made  very 
much  like  a  miniature  paper-rack,  the  ends  instead 
of  the  sides  being  woven,  and  one  end  being  higher 
than  the  other,  for  the  head  of  the  bed ;  with  a 
little  ingenuity  the  same  plan  could  be  adapted 
easily  in  making  a  sofa,  by  weaving  the  two  ends  and 
the  back.  A  plain  chair  could  also  be  made  in  the 
same  way,  with  a  square  seat,  omitting  the  upper 
part  of  the  footboard. 


130 


BASKET   WORK. 


A  Madeira  oval  open-work  basket  (Fig.  151)  is 
made  on  much  the  same  plan  as  that  described  for 
the  square  fancy  basket,  pp.  119  to  121.  The  whole 
basket  should  be  made  in  the  very  finest  cane,  No.  00. 


150.— Doll's  Bedstead. 


For  the  bottom  there  are  twenty  cross-way  canes  in 
five  sets  of  four ;  and  thirty-two  long-way  canes,  ar- 
ranged in  six  sets  of  two  in  the  middle  and  ten  single 
ones  on  each  side.  The  bottom  is  held  together  by 
four  rows  of  twist  all  round,  then  thirty-two  rows  of 
plain  in-and-out  weaving  are  done,  keeping  the 


Fig.  151. — Madeira  Open-work  Basket. 

principal  canes  divided  into  groups  of  four.  This 
makes  a  flat  oval  bottom  about  7|  in.  by  5^  in.  Push 
in  extra  stakes  about  20  in.  long,  always  in  sets  of 
four,  one  set  ainons  each  set  of  the  principal  canes, 


FANCY  BASKETS.  131 

and  one  set  in  each  space  between  (cutting  the  ori- 
ginal canes  off  short)  till  there  are  fifty-six  groups 
of  four  strands  each.  Turn  these  up  at  right  angles 
to  the  flat  bottom.  There  is  no  plain  weaving  at  the 
sides,  the  open-work  beginning  at  once  (see  Fig.  152). 
Take  each  group  of  four  uprights  in  turn  to  the 
right,  in  front  of  three  groups,  'behind  two,  in  front 
of  two,  behind  two,  and  bring  the  ends  down  outside 
the  basket.  Go  all  round  like  this,  threading  in  and 
out  by  the  same  rule, and  return  to  the  starting  point. 


Fig.  152.— Side  of  Madeira  Basket. 

Pull  all  the  ends  till  the  border  has  an  even  height 
of  2  in.  all  round.  The  ends  are  all  outside,  point- 
ing downwards.  For  the  plait,  which  also  makes  a 
little  rim  for  the  basket  to  stand  on,  take  each  set  of 
four  stakes  in  turn  and  pass  it  to  the  right  in  front 
of  two  groups,  behind  two,  and  leave  the  ends  point- 
ing upwards.  Get  this  even  all  round.  Then  take  each 
set  again  to  the  right,  in  front  of  two  groups,  and  be- 
hind one,  the  ends  now  all  pointing  downwards.  Hav- 
ing got  this  even  all  round,  cut  off  the  ends  an  inch 
or  two  from  the  basket ;  let  it  get  quite  dry,  and 
then  cut  them  close  in  the  middle  of  the  plait.  If 
the  basket  is  not  quite  dry  before  the  final  cutting, 
the  ends  will  shrink  and  the  plait  come  undone. 


T32 


CHAPTER    XI. 

SUSSEX    TRUG     BASKETS. 

THE  Sussex  trug  basket  is  made  of  very  thin  wood 
instead  of  osiers,  and  was  first  made  in  Sussex ; 
even  now,  it  is  believed,  they  are  not  made 
outside  a  radius  of  ten  miles  of  the  original  manufac- 
tory, which  is  a  matter  for  surprise.  The  uses  to 
which  they  can  be  put  are  legion ;  the  larger  sizes 
are  used  in  breweries,  coal-yards,  timber-yards,  gar- 
dens, and  in  many  other  places ;  while  the  smaller 
sizes  find  a  large  sale  at  seaside  towns  for  children ; 
ornamental  kinds  are  used  largely  as  ladies'  work- 
baskets,  flower-pots,  etc.  They  are  very  durable, 
and,  if  not  allowed  to  be  continually  wet,  they  will 
last  a  lifetime. 

The  principal  tool  used  in  making  Sussex  truga 
is  the  drawing-knife,  known  also  as  the  draw-shave  ; 
this  will  have  to  be  bought.  Other  necessary  tools 
are  a  hand-saw,  small  axe,  cleaving  axe,  hammer, 
and  an  old  flat-iron  ;  further  appliances  required  can 
be  made  by  the  worker  himself. 

The  most  useful  of  these  home-made  appliances 
is  the  shaving-horse,  shown  in  side  view  by  Fig.  153 
and  in  end  view  by  Fig.  154.  To  make  this,  get  a 
plank  about  6  ft.  long  and  from  10  in.  to  12  in.  wide, 
and  about  6  in.  from  each  end  bore  two  ij-in.  holes, 
and  drive  a  leg  in  each,  to  form  a  stool  as  high  as  a 
chair ;  the  legs  must  spread  well,  so  as  to  make  the 
bench  firm.  Get  two  pieces  of  ash  or  similar  wood, 
2  ft.  6  in.  long,  and  about  3  in.  by  l£  in.,  and  in  each 
piece  bore  two  l^-in.  holes  6  in.  from  each  end,  and 
a  |-in.  hole  13  in.  from  the  top  end  ;  these  pieces  are 
marked  D  in  Figs.  153  and  154.  Two  round  pieces 


SUSSEX  TRUG  BASKETS. 


133 


fit  the  largest  holes,  one  (E)  3  in.  longer  than  the 
stool  is  wide,  and  the  other  (H)  12  in.  longer.  These 
must  be  driven  tightly  into  the  side  pieces,  to  form 
a  frame  which  will  easily  slip  on  the  stool.  Bore  a 


Fig.  153. — Side  Elevation  of  Shaving-horse. 

f-in  hole  through  the  stool  edgeways,  1  ft.  9  in.  from 
one  end,  and,  putting  the  frame  on,  pass  a  bolt  (i) 
through  the  sides  of  the  frame  and  through  the  stool. 
There  now  is  a  stool  with  a  frame  swinging  on  it.  The 
longer  round  piece  should  be  at  the  bottom,  and 
should  project  4£  in.  at  each  side.  A  block  of  wood, 


Fig.  154. — End  Elevation  of  Shaving-horse. 

10  in.  long  and  about  4  in.  wide  by  3  in.  thick  (see  F), 
must  be  fixed  in  the  centre  of  stool,  an  inch  or  two 
nearer  the  long  end  than  the  bolt,  I.  To  fix  F,  tenon 
it  through  the  top  of  stool  and  pin  it.  Cut  off  the 


134  BASKET  WORK. 

block  on  the  bevel  as  illustrated,  so  that  a  board  Q, 
which  is  6  in.  wide,  will  bed  on  top  of  it ;  fix  this 
board  to  the  short  end  of  the  bench.  Fig.  153  ex- 
plains what  is  meant.  A  cushion  (j)  upon  which  to 
sit  is  placed  on  the  shaving-horse,  which  then  is 
complete. 


Fig.  155.  Fig.  156. 

Figs.  155  and  156. — Shaving-brake. 

The  method  of  using  the  shaving-horse  is  to  sit 
astride  it,  place  the  wood  to  be  shaved  on  the  board 
o  (Figs.  153  and  154),  and  put  the  feet,  one  on  each 
aide,  on  the  projecting  pieces  H,  thrusting  them  for- 
ward ;  the  frame  swings  on  the  bolt  I,  and  clips  the 
wood  between  the  board  G  and  the  round  piece  E  ; 
the  more  pressure  required  on  the  work  the  more  are 
the  feet  thrust  forward.  This  shaving-horse  is  a 
very  useful  appliance  in  any  wood-working  shop. 


TRUG  BASKETS. 


The  whole  of  the  wood  for  the  smaller  trugs  can 
be  prepared  on  the  shaving-horse  ;  but  the  rims  and 
handles  for  the  larger  sizes  are  prepared  on  the 
shaving-brake,  shown  in  end  view  by  Fig.  155  and 
in  side  view  by  Fig.  156.  This  simply  is  a  stump 
driven  in  the  ground  and  two  pegs  inserted  in  it,  one 
a  trifle  higher  than  the  other.  The  piece  to  be 


Fig,  157. — Steaming  Trough. 


shaved  has  its  end  put  between  the  two  pegs,  its 
other  end  being  bent  up  to  the  top  of  a  shorter 
stump,  when  the  spring  of  the  wood  will  hold  it 
firmly.  Fig.  156  makes  the  arrangement  clear.  The 
pegs  should  be  about  4  ft.  from  the  ground  ;  that  also 
is  the  height  from  the  ground  of  the  shorter  stump. 

A  steam  trough  for  steaming  the  rims  and  han- 
dles, to  make  them  bend  easily,  will  be  required 
only  by  those  who  go  in  for  the  largest  sizes,  or 
make  in  a  large  way  to  sell  again.  It  may  be  fitted 


i36 


BASKET  WORK. 


up  in  connection  with  the  ordinary  washing  copper 
In  Fig.  157  L  is  the  copper,  M  the  fire,  o  the  chimney, 
p  the  stokehole,  Q  a  support  for  the  end  of  trough  K, 
which  is  a  watertight  box  about  6  ft.  long  and  9  in. 
square,  stopped  at  the  end  nearest  the  chimney,  and 


Fig.  159. 


Fig.  158. 
Figs.  159  and  160.—  End 


Fig.  158.—  Steaming  Apparatus; 

of  Steam  Trough  ;    Fig.    161.  —  Attachment   of   Steam 
Tube  to  Copper. 

fitted  with  a  movable  lid  at  R  ;  a  square  tube  N  leads 
from  the  copper  to  the  trough,  and  it  is  understood 
easily  that  when  the  trough  K  is  filled  with  the  pieces 
of  Avood,  the  door  R  closed  firmly,  and  the  water  kept 
boiling  for  half  an  hour,  the  wood  will  be  steamed 
well,  and  will  then  bend  without  difficulty.  The 
smaller  pieces  of  wood  can  be  boiled  in  water,  in 
which  case  a  trough  is  not  required. 


SUSSEX  TRUG  BASKETS. 


137 


Details  of  the  steaming  apparatus  may  be  given 
for  the  benefit  of  those  who  intend  to  work  in  a  large 
way. 


Fig.  162.— Front  View  of  Sussex  Trug. 

The  steam  trough  proper  (A,  Figs.  158  to  161)  is 
a  square  box  about  6  ft.  long,  made  from  four  9-in.  by 
1-in.  boards,  and  strengthened  as  at  B.  The  end  c 
(Fig.  158)  is  closed  up,  but  at  the  end  D  the  strength- 
ening pieces  project  about  lj  in.  beyond  the  trough 
so  as  to  form  a  rebate.  All  round,  in  this  rebate, 


Fig.  163. — End  View  of  Sussex  Trug. 

a  door,  G,  is  fitted,  and  held  in  place  by  a  button,  I, 
on  each  side,  as  shown  in  Fig.  159.  The  door  is 
strengthened  by  ledges,  H.  The  trough  is  connected 


138  BASKET  WORK. 

with  the  copper  by  means  of  the  wooden  pipe  E, 
which  fits  in  a  socket  formed  by  nailing  four  cleats, 
F,  on  to  bottom  side  of  trough,  and  also  on  lid  of 
copper,  K.  A  square  hole  is  cut  in  the  lid,  and  also 


Fig.  164.— Rim  of  Sussex  Trug. 

in  the  trough,  for  the  steam  to  pass  through.  The 
trough  is  fixed  in  a  horizontal  position,  the  pipe  E 
supporting  the  end  c,  while  the  other  end  can  be 
suspended  from  the  roof  or  propped  from  the  floor, 
as  most  convenient  (see  Fig.  157).  Fig.  158  is  an  ele- 
vation of  steam  trough  attached  to  set  pan  ;  Fig.  159, 


Fig.  166. 


Fig.  165. 

Fig.  IGo.— Handle  of  Sussex  Trug  ;   Fig.  166.— Foot  of 
Sussex  Trug. 

elevation  of  end,  showing  movable  door ;  Fig.  160, 
vertical  section  through  end  and  door  ;  Fig.  161,  plan 
of  attachment  of  steam  tube  to  copper  lid. 


SUSSEX  TRUG  BASKETS. 


139 


A.  Sussex  trug  basket  is  shown  in  side  view  by 
Fig.  162  and  in  end  view  by  Fig.  163,  and  from  these 
it  will  be  seen  to  consist  of  four  parts — the  rim  (Fig. 
164),  the  handle  (Fig.  165),  the  feet  (Fig.  166),  and 
the  boards  (Fig.  167).  The  rims  and  handles  are 
made  of  ash  or  chestnut  poles  about  2  in.  in  diameter, 
the  straightest  material  and  that  most  clear  from 
knots  being  most  suitable  ;  these  should  be  cut  to 
lengths  and  quartered,  that  is,  cleft  through  the 
middle  and  then  cleft  at  right  angles  to  the  first 
cleaving,  thus  producing  four  pieces  in  section  like 
Fig.  168.  Shave  off  the  sharp  angle  at  the  pith,  trim 


Fig.  167. 


Fig.  169. 


Fig.  167.— Boards  of  Sussex  Trug ;   FigB.  168  and  169.— 
Sections  of  Rim  of  Sussex  Trug. 

off  any  irregularities  left  from  cleaving,  and  just  take 
off  all  sharp  edges,  the  section  then  resembling  Fig. 
169.  The  less  the  outside  is  touched  the  better, 
because  strength  is  wanted  there  in  bending.  The 
ends  for  about  6  in.  must  be  thinned  down,  so  that 
two  ends  may  come  together  and  form  a  neat  joint, 
about  the  same  thickness  as  the  rest  of  the  rim.  The 
handles  are  made  in  exactly  the  same  way.  The 
shaving  being  done,  the  wood  is  steamed  or  boiled, 
and  then  the  putting  together  can  be  proceeded  with. 
This  the  beginner  will  manage  best  by  making  a 
board  of  the  same  shape  as  a  rim.  In  making  a  trug 
about  15  in.  by  8  in.,  a  board  is  required  i  in.  less 
each  way  than  this,  with  the  corners  rounded  off ; 


140  BASKET  WORK. 

bend  the  rim  round  the  edge  of  the  board,  and  fasten 
the  splicing  with  three  or  four  nails.  The  splicing 
should  be  in  the  middle  of  the  long  side,  as  at  C 
(Fig.  164).  The  handle  will  be  managed  in  the  same 
way,  only,  of  course,  the  board  will  have  to  be  the 
shape  of  Fig.  165 ;  and  as  the  handle  is  nailed  on 
outside  the  rim,  the  inside  measurement  of  the 
handle  will  have  to  be  as  much  as  the  outside  meas- 
urement of  the  rim,  though  this  need  not  be  exact, 
as  they  will  yield  one  to  another.  After  some  prac- 
tice the  workman  will  learn  to  dispense  with  the 
boards  altogether,  and  bend  both  handles  and  rims 
without  such  assistance,  as  is  done  in  the  trade. 
The  handle  and  rim  being  ready,  nail  them  together ; 
to  do  so,  slip  the  handle  over  the  rim,  hold  it  at 
right  angles  to  the  latter,  and,  having  a  solid  sup- 
port, drive  a  nail  right  through  as  at  A  (Fig.  162) ; 
then  turn  the  whole  over  and  do  the  other  side  the 
same,  clinch  the  nails  inside,  and  the  frame  for  the 
trug  is  done.  Lay  it  on  one  side  while  preparing  the 
laths  (Fig.  167),  which  are  made  from  sallow  poles, 
a  soft  kind  of  willow ;  it  is  usually  called  "  sally." 
The  poles  are  cut  off  to  the  lengths  required  for  the 
various  sizes  ;  the  trug  of  the  size  mentioned  above 
will  require  boards  21  in.  long.  The  wood  is  clef  b  as 
thin  as  possible — the  thinner  the  better — as  there  is 
then  less  shaving  to  do.  After  cleaving  out  with 
the  cleaving  axe,  lay  them  in  a  pile  by  the  side  of 
the  shaving-horse,  so  that  they  can  be  reached  with- 
out the  worker  moving  from  his  seat ;  shave  one 
side  plain,  and  do  the  other  side  the  same,  but  a 
trifle  round,  so  as  to  make  them  thinnest  at  the 
edges ;  then  turn  ends  and  do  the  same  again,  the 
lath  then  being  finished.  Boards  can  be  made  to 
any  of  the  shapes  shown  in  Fig.  167,  whichever  will 
suit  best,  and  they  will  all  come  in.  In  putting  the 
bottom  in  the  trug,  select  a  lath  resembling  A  (Fig. 
167),  press  it  down  in  the  framework,  and  drive  a 
nail  into  the  handle  at  B  (Fig.  162) ;  bend  the  lath  to 


TRUG  BASKETS.  141 

the  shape  there  shown,  and  nail  again  at  C.  Do  the 
other  end  the  same,  and  the  first  lath  is  fixed,  as 
one  nail  at  each  place  is  enough.  Take  a  lath  some- 
thing like  B  (Fig.  167),  and  proceed  in  the  same  way, 
just  allowing  it  to  lap  over  the  edge  of  the  first  one, 
and  so  proceed  on  each  side  from  the  centre  till  the 
trug  is  finished.  The  last  lath  on  each,  side  will  re- 
semble c  (Fig.  167),  and  will  most  likely  require  fit- 
ting a  little  to  the  rim,  which  is  best  done  with  a 
sharp  knife  ;  the  knife  also  is  used  for  trimming  off 
ends  of  laths  after  they  are  nailed  in.  It  will  be 
found  that  it  takes  about  seven  laths  to  complete  the 
job,  though,  if  they  are  of  a  good  width,  five  will  do 
it,  and  again,  if  very  narrow,  it  will  require  more  ; 
but  there  should  always  be  an  odd  number — that  is, 
there  should  be  an  equal  number  on  each  side  of  the 
centre  one. 

The  feet,  Fig.  166,  p.  138,  now  have  to  be  made 
and  put  on.  They  can  be  made  from  any  odds  and 
ends  of  wood,  and  are  about  1  in.  thick.  They  are 
nailed  through  from  the  inside. 

A  cleaving  axe  is  mentioned  above  ;  this  is  shown 
by  Fig.  170,  in  which  A  is  the  wooden  handle,  B  ia  the 
blade,  and  c  the  eye  of  the  blade  in  which  the  handle 
is  fixed  ;  D  is  a  plan  of  the  blade  looking  at  the  bot- 
tom. To  use  it,  the  piece  of  wood  to  be  cleft  is 
stood  on  one  end,  and  the  edge  laid  on  it  where  it  is 
to  be  split,  the  handle  being  held  upright  in  the  left 
hand ;  the  blade  is  struck  on  the  thick  part  with  a 
billet  of  wood  until  it  is  well  in,  when  the  handle  is 
used  as  a  lever  and  at  once  splits  the  wood.  The 
proper  nails  to  use  are  the  stout  wire  ones  with  large 
flat  heads,  and  they  are  clinched  on  the  flat-iron  be- 
fore mentioned  ;  they  can  be  driven  in  fearlessly,  as 
there  is  no  fear  of  splitting  the  wood. 

The  walking-stick  basket  (Fig.  171)  is  simply  a 
combination  of  the  trug  with  a  walking-stick,  and 
made  very  simply.  First  make  the  trug  part,  as  al- 
ready described  ;  it  must  be  about  8  in.  in  diameter 


142 


BASKET  WORK. 


each  way.  The  stick  is  a  straight  piece  of  ash,  the 
crook  on  the  top  being  formed  by  steaming  and  bend- 
ing in  the  same  way  as  the  rims  and  handles ;  cut  a 
hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  trug,  so  that  the  stick  will 
go  just  through.  Get  two  turned  collars,  as  shown 
in  plan  and  sectional  elevation  by  Fig.  172,  and  fix 
one  of  these  on  the  stick,  about  6  in.  below  the  crook  ; 


Fig.  170. 


Fig.  173. 


V 

'.  171. 


Fig.  170.— Cleaving  Axe;  Fig.  171.— Walking-stick  Basket; 
Fig.  172.— Collar  for  Walking-stick  Basket ;  Fig.  173.— 
Caul,  or  Wood  Basket. 


then  pass  the  stick  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  trug,  so  that  the  collar  fits  in  the  trug ;  slip 
the  second  collar  on  the  stick,  and  fix  up  close  to  the 
trug  with  a  small  nail ;  then  the  walking-stick  basket 
is  complete. 

This  basket  is  sold  very  largely  in  places  fre- 


TRUG  BASKETS. 


143 


quented  by  tourists,  who  use  it  for  fern  and  flower 
gathering,  etc.  ;  geologists  use  it  for  collecting  spe- 
cimens, and  ladies  use  it  for  fruit  gathering. 

The  caul  or  wood  basket  (Fig.  173)  may  be  de- 
scribed as  an  ordinary  trug,  only  larger.     It  is  from 


Fig.  174.— Stable  or  Feeding  Basket. 

3^  ft.  to  5  ft.  long ;  and  as  this  would  be  a  very  un- 
wieldy burden  for  anyone  to  carry,  the  handle  is  dis- 
pensed with,  and  instead  a  hand-hole  is  cut  at  each 
end,  just  under  the  rim  (A,  Fig.  173).  It  has  a  rim 
the  same  as  an  ordinary  trug,  and  instead  of  the 
handle  going  over  the  top,  it  stops  at  the  rim,  to 
which  it  is  nailed.  There  are  two  braces  on  each 
side  of  the  handle,  as  shown.  The  laths  thus  are 


Fig.  175.— Coal  Basket. 

nailed  in  five  different  places,  which  makes  it  very 
strong  and  durable. 

The  stable  or  feeding  basket  (Fig.  174)  is  a  form 
of  trug  used  for  feeding  cattle  and  horses  in  their 
stables;  it  is  believed  to  be  used  largely  by  the 
Army.  It  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  the  ordinary 


144 


BASKET  WORK. 


trug,  except  that  it  is  quite  round,  and  about  20  in. 
in  diameter,  the  framework  consisting  of  the  rim  and 
three  braces,  as  illustrated. 

The  coal  basket  (Fig.  175)  is  very  similar  to  the 
common  trug,  except  that  it  is  made  smaller  at  one 
end  than  the  other,  and  the  handle  is  placed  nearer 
to  the  \vide  end.  A  hole  is  made  under  the  rim  at 
the  wide  end,  in  the  same  way  as  in  the  caul  basket. 
This  makes  it  very  convenient  for  throwing  coal  on 
the  fire,  thus  dispensing  with  the  ordinary  coal- 
scuttle and  shovel. 


Fig.  176.— Lady's  Work  Basket. 

Ladies'  work  baskets  (Figs.  176  and  177)  are  in 
great  demand,  being  used  for  other  purposes  as  well. 
They  are  made  in  various  sizes,  ranging  from  5  in.  in 
diameter  to  15  in.,  and  are  ornamented  in  various 
ways.  The  rims  and  handles  are  made  on  blocks  in 
the  same  way  as  those  of  the  ordinary  trug,  but,  of 
course,  more  care  must  be  taken  with  the  work,  and 
they  must  be  made  much  lighter.  The  laths  also 
must  be  shaved  as  thin  as  possible,  and  a  good  finish 
is  given  to  the  basket  by  fastening  them  together 
with  upholsterers'  silvered  nails.  After  the  laths  are 


Sussex  TRUG  BASKETS.  145 

put  in,  they  should  be  trimmed  round,  about  \  in. 
above  the  rim,  and  then  small  notches  cut  with  the 
knife.  This  gives  the  basket  an  ornamental  ap- 
pearance at  little  expense  of  time.  A  good 
effect  is  also  given  by  staining  each  alter- 
nate lath  a  different  colour,  the  staining 
being  done  before  the  laths  are  nailed  in. 
The  baskets  are  much  improved  by  having  handles 
which  fold  down.  This  is  effected  by  cutting  the 
handle  asunder,  just  above  the  rim,  and  inserting 
a  piece  of  tin-plate  1  in.  long,  half  of  it  in  each  part, 


Fig.  177.— Lady's  Work  Basket. 

with  a  rivet,  formed  with  a  tin  tack  or  brad,  through 
each,  which  forms  a  hinge  for  the  handle,  and  allows 
it  to  fold  easily.  The  hinge  is  made  clear  in  the  dia- 
gram, Fig.  178,  in  which  B  B  are  the  pieces  of  tin- 
plate,  and  A  A  A  A  the  rivets.  Figs.  176  and  177  show 
baskets  with  one  and  two  handles  respectively. 

The  parcel-post  basket  has  not  so  general  a  use 
as  the  ether  kinds  of  trugs,  though  for  those  who 
send  game,  fruit,  etc.,  by  parcel-post,  it  will  be  found 
useful.  It  is  simply  two  ordinary  baskets  without 
handles,  hung  together  at  one  end  by  the  rims,  so 
I 


146  BASKET   WORK. 

that,  when  folded  together,  they  form  a  box.  The 
rims  can  be  tied  together  at  the  other  end  to  make 
all  secure.  Its  recommendation  is  its  lightness, 
which  saves  postage,  and  its  strength. 

Handsome  flower-pots  can  be  made  out  of  the 
same  materials,  and  in  the  same  way  as  the  trugs. 
To  make  them,  first  cut  out  in  \-\ft..  deal  an  octagon 
of  the  same  size  as  the  inside  of  the  proposed  flower- 
pot ;  this  octagon  will  form  the  bottom  of  the  pot. 
Make  a  rim  of  the  same  size  or  a  shade  larger  inside 
measurement,  and  prepare  eight  laths,  if  a  small 
pot,  or  sixteen,  if  a  large  one,  and  proceed  to  nail 


Fig.  178.— Folding  Handles  for  Work  Basket. 

them,  first  to  the  bottom,  and  then  to  the  rim,  with 
silvered  nails  ;  trim  off,  and  ornament  in  the  same 
way  as  mentioned  for  ladies'  work  baskets.  These 
pots  can  be  used  either  as  standing  or  hanging  pots, 
and  can  be  finished  off  with  enamel  paint. 

Dolls'  cradles  can  be  made  of  the  same  materials, 
but  the  trug  maker  will  now  have  gained  such  an  ex- 
perience that  this  and  many  other  useful  articles  will 
suggest  themselves  to  him ;  and  there  is  no  need'  to 
take  up  space  in  describing  the  process  of  making 
them.  The  same  applies  to  the  butcher's  tray,  which 
is  exceedingly  simple  to  make.  It  may  be  noted, 
however,  in  the  case  of  the  cradle,  that  if  it  is  to  rock, 
curved  rockers  must  be  put  under  the  tray  itself,  in- 
stead of  the  straight  pieces  of  wood  that  are  gener- 
ally added  to  it  as  feet. 


M7 


CHAPTER    XII. 

MISCELLANEOUS   BASKET  WORK. 

IN  this  chapter  attention  will  be  devoted  to  a  few 
of  the  jobs  which  occasionally  the  working  basket 
maker  has  to  undertake  ;  and  brief  instructions  will 
be  given  for  making  one  or  two  kinds  of  baskets  not 
yet  mentioned. 

For  a  hawker's  oval  basket  with  a  false  bottom, 
say  16  in.  long,  the  basket  being  9  in.  deep,  take 
eight  rods,  and  tie  a  slarth  of  four  lays  of  sticks,  as 
illustrated  in  Figs.  57  to  59,  pp.  56  and  57,  and  fill  in 
the  bottom  by  working  rods  in  pairs,  as  described  in 
Chapter  V.  When  the  bottom  is  finished,  stake  it, 
being  particular  to  get  a  pair  of  stakes  in  the  middle 
of  both  sides  to  form  a  space  for  the  handle  bow. 
After  the  stakes  have  been  gathered  and  placed  in  a 
hoop,  begin  to  upset  with  four  rods,  as  described  in 
Chapter  V.  After  putting  on  two  rounds  of  upset- 
ting, weave  in  rods  singly,  as  in  Fig.  41,  p.  39.  If  tne 
space  under  the  false  bottom  is  to  be  utilised  as  well, 
a  small  opening  must  be  left  for  a  door,  either  at  one 
of  the  ends  or  near  a  handle  space.  Each  weaving  rod 
is  worked  round  the  stake  and  back  again  until  suffi- 
cient space  D  (Fig.  179)  is  left  to  admit  or  remove 
such  articles  as  may  be  reauired.  Of  course,  the 
door  space  D  may  require  two  or  even  three  stakes 
left  bare  ;  only  one  is  shown  as  an  example.  At 
about  4  in.  from  the  border  must  be  formed  a  ledge 
of  some  kind  on  which  the  false  bottom  rests.  See 
that  the  weaving  is  of  one  depth  all  round  ;  then  take 
four  fair-sized  rods  and  work  on  a  wale,  as  in  Fig. 
180.  Place  A  behind  stakes  E,  F,  G  ;  B  behind  F,  G,  H  ; 
o  behind  G,  H,  J,  and  D  behind  H,  j,  K ;  and  repeat, 


i48 


BASKET  WORK. 


each  wale-rod  passing  in  front  of  one  stake 
and  behind  three ;  work  them  tight  to  form 
a  substantial  ledge  for  the  false  bottom. 


Fig.  179. — Weaving  for  Hawker's  Basket. 

Piece  each  wale-rod  butt  where  it  finishes,  and 
lap  the  tops  properly.  Now  finish  weaving,  and 
when  the  top  wale  is  put  round  use  four  rods  (see  Fig. 
43,  p.  41).  Work  each  rod  inside  two  stakes  and 
outside  two  stakes,  piecing  the  butts  as  before.  The 
border  can  now  be  laid  down ;  this  is  worked  much 
like  the  one  in  Fig.  46,  p.  44,  the  difference  being  that 


Fig.  180.— Waling  for  Hawker's  Basket. 

there  are  not  any  corners  ;  instead,  leave  the  space 
for  the  handle  bow  or  bows  exactly  the  same.  A  rod, 
cane,  or  skein  handle,  whichever  is  preferred,  can  be 


MISCELLANEOUS  BASKET  WORK. 


149 


made,  and  for  the  last  use  three  bows  instead  of  two, 
as  in  Fig.  120,  p.  Ill,  and  two  scallom  rods,  as  a 
more  substantial  handle  will  be  required.  The  false 
bottom  is  made  like  the  fixed  one,  and  should  fit  well 
on  the  wale.  The  door  can  be  formed  with  four  scal- 
lom rods  lapped  on  the  stake  E  (Fig.  179),weaving  be- 
tween them  sufficient  small  rods  to  cover  the  space 
to  the  stake  F,  and  cramming  the  two  outside  ones 
beside  each  other.  Cut  off  the  second  inside  scal- 
lom. and  cram  the  first  down  by  the  side  of  it.  Cut 


Fig.  181.— Basket  for  Show  Fowls. 

off  the  uncovered  part  of  the  stake  in  the  space  D, 
and  fasten  the  door  at  the  stake  P  in  any  convenient 
way.  The  four  lapped  parts  of  the  scallom  rods  act 
as  hinges  on  the  stake  E. 

A  round  basket  for  conveying  show  fowls  may  be 
2  ft.  in  diameter  and  2  ft.  or  more  in  height,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  birds.  The  bottom  is  formed  as  in 
an  ordinary  basket  or  hamper,  and  the  sides  are  as 
shown  in  Fig.  181.  The  wicker-work  is  made  to  a 
height  of  6  in.  at  the  base,  and  at  the  level  A  two 
well-twisted  rods  are  put  on  as  shown  in  plan  (Fig. 


'5° 


BASKET  WORK. 


182)  for  strength.  The  top  is  finished  with  two  rods 
in  a  similar  manner, and  the  upright  rods  are  twisted, 
bent  dowu,  and  worked  in  with  the  finishing  rods  so 


Fi".  182. — Woven  Twisted  Rods. 


as  to  form  a  rim.  The  basket  is  lined  with  light  can- 
vas, which  should  project  about  1  ft.  above  the  top. 
The  canvas  is  finished  like  a  pillow-case,  having  a 
hem  to  receive  a  string  ;  when  this  is  drawn  and  tied 
there  will  remain  a  hole  at  the  top  which  will  give 


Fig.  183.— Eel  Trap. 


sufficient  ventilation.      These  baskets   are  cheap, 
light,  and  quickly  made. 

Eel-traps  for  sinking  in  a  river  are  made  of  wicker- 
work,  as  shown  by  Fig.  183.  The  body  consists  of 
a  cigar-shaped  basket  about  3  ft.  6  in.  long  and  about 
6  in.  diameter  at  the  largest  part.  The  sticks  should 


MISCELLANEOUS  BASKET  WORK.          151 

be  about  f  in.  apart.  At  one  end  (A)  a  funnel-shaped 
basket  is  fitted  up,  the  small  end  of  which  projects 
into  the  trap.  This  is  made  of  pointed  flexible 
wooden  strips,  which  spring  apart  as  the  eels  enter, 
but  will  not  permit  them  to  leave  the  trap.  The 
opening  B  is  used  for  putting  in  the  bait  and  remov- 
ing the  captures,  and  is  closed  when  the  trap  is  in 
use  with  a  piece  of  sacking  tied  over  the  mouth. 
An  easily  made  specimen  of  basket  work  is  the 


Tig.  184.— Crab  and  Lobster  Pot. 

crab  and  lobster  pot,  shown  in  Fig.  184.  This  is  a 
mere  openwork  wicker  basket,  about  30  in.  in  dia- 
meter by  20  in.  high,  the  bottom  being  made  very 
strong.  Stones  are  lashed  to  the  bottom  inside  so 
as  to  cause  the  pot  to  sink,  and  a  strong  line  having 
cork  floats  fixed  at  intervals  to  denote  the  position 
of  the  pot  is  attached  to  the  side. 

For  making  baskets  or  hand-guards  for  single- 
sticks, take  about  eight  long  thin  osiers  and  with 
them  form  a  slarth,  as  described  on  p.  49,  and  shown 
by  Figs.  52  and  53.  As  both  butts  and  tops  of  these 


152  BASKET  WORK. 

eight  osiers  are  to  form  the  border,  they  must  be 
laid  thus — a  butt,  a  top,  a  butt,  and  so  on.  Use  two 
small  rods  to  tie  the  slarth.  Four  of  the  eight  osiers 
will  have  to  be  laid  first,  then  the  other  four  across 
them.  When  the  tie-rods  have  been  worked  alter- 
nately twice  round,  the  osiers  are  opened  in  turn  by 
working  the  tie-rods  between  them,  thus  forming 
sixteen  uprights  to  receive  the  weaving,  or  pairing, 
as  it  is  called.  The  half  stick  I  (Fig.  52,  p.  50)  will 
not  be  required ;  a  small  piece  is  scallomed  at  the 
butt  of  one  tie-rod  and  lapped  round  the  four  under 
rods.  To  get  the  hand-guard  to  shape,  carefully 
gather  the  sixteen  stakes  and  place  them  in  a  small 
hoop ;  peg  the  whole  to  the  edge  of  the  workboard 
with  a  small  bodkin  or  wire  nail  passed  through  a 
leaden  weight.  Now  form  each  stake  by  gently  pull- 
ing and  bending.  Take  two  small  rods,  place  one 
top  behind  a  stake,  with  the  tip  end  in  front  of  the 
stake  before  it,  and  the  other  rod  behind  the  next 
stake  to  the  right ;  pair  these  two  rods  round  one 
over  the  other  in  and  out  of  the  stakes.  When  they 
will  not  work  any  further,  piece  them  with  the  butt 
ends  of  two  other  rods  (see  Fig,  40,  p.  36).  Pair  the 
work  to  the  proper  depth,  which  will  be  between  3  in. 
and  4  in.,  when  the  stakes  can  be  laid  down  to  form 
the  border,  as  in  Fig.  185.  A,  B,  and  c  first  are  laid 
down,  each  stake  passing  behind  two  others,  in  front 
of  the  third  and  fourth,  and  finishing  in  front  of  the 
sixth,  as  shown  at  F.  The  stakes  D  are  to  be  laid 
down  in  turn.  The  fencing-stick  is  passed  through 
near  the  border  of  one  side  of  the  guard,  and  out  near 
the  crown  at  the  opposite  side.  Small  wood  pegs  are 
put  in  the  sticks  outside  to  keep  them  in  position. 

Some  instructions  on  repairing  oval  and  square 
baskets  may  be  given  here. 

Baskets  should  be  repaired  before  they  are  too 
badly  worn  As  soon  as  the  foot  rim  gets  broken, 
well  soak  that  part,  draw  out  all  foot  stakes  (with 
pincers,  if  necessary),  and  put  on  a  new  rim.  If  there 


MISCELLANEOUS  BASKET    WORK.          153 

is  no  foot  rim,  cut  out  the  worn  bottom  with  shears  ; 
or,  if  the  bottom  part  is  thoroughly  soaked,  the  work- 
man can  push  it  inwards  with  his  foot.  If  the  bot- 
tom edge  of  the  body  itself  is  worn,  pull  off  a  few 
rounds,  push  down  a  stake  wherever  one  may  have 


B  ^^£=-^^Hi 

D 

Fig.  185. — Border  for  Single-stick  Hand-guard. 

worn  or  broken,  and  work  some  upsetting  (see  Fig. 
38,  p.  35)  to  replace  that  which  has  been  removed.  A 
new  bottom  must  be  made  to  replace  the  old  one. 
Of  course,  the  stakes  in  the  body  must  be  cut  quite 
level  all  round  at  the  bend  after  the  upsetting  has 
been  finished  off.  Occasionally  gauge  the  bottom  to 
the  body  so  as  to  get  a  good  fit ;  then  cut  off  the  ends 
of  ths  bottom  sticks,  and  tie  in  the  bottom  with  osier 
bands.  An  oval  basket  will  require  about  six  bands, 
two  at  each  side  and  one  at  each  end.  A  large 
square  basket  may  require  eight  or  ten  bands,  three 
at  each  side  and  two  at  the  ends.  To  keep  the  bot- 
tom in  place  while  tying,  push  two  or  three  bodkins 


Fig.  186.— Tying-in  Band. 

through  the  upsetting  and  into  the  bottom,  down  be- 
side the  bottom  sticks.  Next  pick  out  and  point  six 
or  eight  band  rods.  Push  one  down  the  upsetting 
in  the  body,  and  begin  twisting  it  rope  fashion  from 
the  tip  end  to  the  butt.  The  rod  now  can-be  drawn 
in  and  out  exactly  as  can  a  piece  of  rope.  With  the 


ij4  BASKET  WORK. 

bodkin,  open  the  weaving  in  the  bottom,  about  4  in. 
from  the  edge,  at  the  right-hand  side  of  the  nearest 
bottom  stick  ;  pull  the  band  through  from  the  inside, 
then  out  again  at  the  other  side  of  the  same  stick  ; 
twist  it  over  the  4-in.  lap  twice,  pulling  it  very  tight 
and  even,  then  carry  it  for  about  6  in.  up  the  side  of 
the  basket,  and  push  it  through  to  the  left  of  a  stake. 
Bring  it  out  to  the  right  about  1  in.  nearer  the  bot- 
tom, and  again  twist  it  over  itself  three  times  along 


Fig.  187.— Bottom  of  Strawberry  Punnet. 

the  bottom  twisted  part ;  return  it  through  the  first 
loop,  still  keeping  an  even  twist,  then  pass  it  through 
the  edge  of  the  bottom,  and  upset,  again  forming  a 
close  and  even  twist  up  the  side  ;  finally,  pass  it 
through  the  side  loop,  pull  very  tightly,  and  cut  off 
the  waste  piece  neat  and  close.  Fig.  186  shows  part 
of  a  tying-in  band.  A  is  passed  through  the  side  of 
the  body  and  comes  out  again  at  the  right-hand  side 
of  the  stake,  and  is  worked  the  whole  length  again, 
when  it  is  turned  in  the  loop  in  the  bottom  (outside), 


MISCELLANEOUS  BASKET   WORK. 


155 


and  finishes  as  at  B,  outside.  The  even  twist  is  ob- 
tained by  pulling  tightly.  When  all  the  bands  are 
finished,  a  foot  rim  can  be  worked  on,  as  described 


Fig.  188. — Uprights  and  Lacing  of  Strawberry  Punnet. 

on  p.  45  in  the  chapter  on  making  a  grocer's  basket. 
Should  any  of  the  top  border  stakes  be  broken,  push 
down  others  in  their  places,  bend  them  down,  draw 


Fig.   189. — Uprights  and  Lacing  of  Strawberry  Punnet. 

them  through  from  the  front,  and  cram  them,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  47,  p.  44.  Some  stakes  will  require 
merely  pushing  through  the  border  from  the  front 
and  cramming,  the  inside  end  being  cut  off  close. 


156  BASKET  WORK. 

Strawberry  punnets  or  baskets  as  used  by  fruit- 
erers are  made  with  thin  strips  of  wood,  well  soaked 
before  use.  The  bottom  and  uprights  are  comprised 
of  six  pieces  of  -fa  in.  wood ;  the  bottom  and  side 
pieces  may  be  of  ash,  and  the  lacings,  which  are  -^\ 
in.  thick  and  \  in  wide,  may  be  of  pine.  To  make  a 
punnet  5j  in.  across  the  bottom  and  2f  in.  deep,  cross 
the  six  lengths  (as  shown  in  Fig.  187)  under  the  left 
foot.  Split  A  down  half  its  length,  which  will  give 
thirteen  uprights.  Take  a  \  in.  lacing,  put  it 
between  A  and  B,  and  weave  it  round  to  the 
right  as  shown  between  the  split  upright, 
and  continue  the  weaving  until  the  bottom 
is  5^  in.  wide.  The  cross  pieces  now  are  bent  up- 
wards carefully,  and  the  tops  held  in  a  small  hoop  to 
keep  them  in  position  until  a  few  rounds  of  the  side 
lacings  have  been  inserted,  when  the  hoop  can  be 
dispensed  with.  As  each  length  of  lacing  is  finished, 
it  is  pieced  with  another  (inside).  When  the  depth 
is  obtained,  cut  off  level  with  the  top  every  alternate 
(2|  in.)  upright.  Of  the  other  uprights  (only  three 
are  shown),  a  portion  (A,  Fig.  188)  is  shaved  thin, 
bent  outwards,  and  the  ends  tucked  into  the  side 
as  at  B.  Push  in  a  long  lacing  at  the  left-hand  side 
of  one  of  the  turned-down  uprights.  Lap  one  strand 
round  the  basket,  and  with  the  longest  strand  bind 
it  and  the  last  or  top  lacing  firmly  together.  Fig. 
189  is  a  section  of  a  punnet  body;  w  shows  the 
lacings  and  u  the  uprights. 


INDEX 


Axe,  Cleaving,  141 

Awl,  15 

Band  on  Doctor's  Basket,  109 

,  Tying-in,  154 

Basket  (for  details  see  under  sepurate 
headings) 

Bottle-casings,  98-103 

• ,  Brown  Stain  for,  15 

,  Cane,  16-26,  112-131 

,  Caul,  143 

,  Coal,  144 

,  Chemist's  or  Doctor's,  104-111 

,  Fancy,  16-26,  112-131 

— ,  Feeding,  143,  144 

,  Flat  Fruit,  64-73 

,  Grocer's  Square,  27-48 

- — ,  Ladies'  Work,  144,  145 

• ,  Linen,  55-63 

,  Madeira  Open-work,  ]30,  131 

,  Mahogany  Stain  for,  15 

,  Oblong  Fancy,  117-121 

,  Oval,  55-63 

, Fancy,  24,  122 

, ,  for  Hawker,  147-149 

— ,  Parcel-post,  145,  140 

Repairing,  152-155 

— ,  Round,  49-54 

, Fancy,  16-22 

— ,  — r— ,  for  Show  Fowls,  149,  150 

,  Rubbish,  112,  113 

— ,  Single-stick,  151-152 

,  Square,  27-48 

— ,  — -  Fancy,  117-121 

,  Stable,  143,  144 

— ,  Stains  for,  15 
— ,  Strawberry,  156 

,  Sussex  Trug  (see  Trug) 

• ,  Walking-stick,  141-143 

,  Wood,  148 

Bedstead,  Doll's,  129 
Binding  Fancy  Handles,  120 
•leaching  Cane,  15 
Block,  Screw,  9 

— , ,  Use  of,  27,  28 

Boards  for  Trug  Baskets,  140 
— ,  Work,  14 
Bodkins,  9 
Border  on  Bottle-casing,  102 

Doctor's  Basket,  104-106 

Flat  Fruit  Basket,  68,  69 

Foot  Rim  of  Elbow-chair,  S3 

Grocer's  Basket,  41-43 

Oval  Linen  Basket,  62 

— ,  Plaited,  93,  94 

on  Hound  Basket,  53 

— —  round  Elbow-chair  Corner  Posts, 

84 
on  Single-stick  Hand-guard,  152 


Bottle-casing,  Basket,  98-108 

—  Beginning,  98 

—  Border  on,  102 

—  Cap  of,  99 

—  Handle  on,  102 

-  Slewing,  100,  101,  10S 

—  Tap-opening  in,  101 

—  Upsetting,  100 
Bottom  of  Doctor's  Basket,  104 

— ,  False,  to  Oval  Basket,  147,  148 

of  Flat  Fruit  Basket,  64 

Grocer's  Basket,  28-30 

Oval  Linen  Basket,  55-58 

Round  Basket,  49-51 

Trug  Basket,  140 

Bow  for  Basket  Lid,  69-72 

Doctor's  Basket,  110,  111 

Elbow-chair,  74-97 

,  Lapping,  74 

—  Handle  of  Grocer's  Basket,  46,  41 

,  Lapping,  47 

Boxwood  Cleaves,  13 
Bridge  on  Doctor's  Basket,  106 
Brown  Stain  for  Baskets,  15 
Buff-coloured  Chairs,  Osiers  for,  13 
Butcher's  Tray,  145 

Cane  Baskets,  16-26,  112-131 

,  Bleaching,  15 

Casing,  Bottle,  98-103 

, ,  Beginning  98 

, ,  Border  on,  102 

, ,  Cap  of,  99 

, ,  Handle  on,  102 

, ,  Slewing,  100,  101,  10S 

, ,  Tap-opening  in,  101 

, ,  Upsetting,  100 

Caul  Trug  Basket,  143 

Chair,  Buff-coloured,  Osiers  for,  IS 

Doll's  Garden,  122 

, Plain,  129,  130 

, Round,  123 

,  Wicker  Elbow,  74-97  (see  alx 

Elbow-chair) 
Chemist's  Basket,  104-111 

,  Border  on,  104-106 

,  Bottom  of,  104 

,  Bow  for,  110,  111 

,  Bridge  on,  106 

,  Flap  Lids  of,  106 

(  Handle  for,  110,  111 

,  Lapping  Handle  of,  110 

,  Staples  for,  111 

— ,  Twist  or  Band  on,  109 

,  Tying  on  Lids  of,  109 

,  Upsetting,  105 

,  Wale  on,  105 

Chip,  Plaited,  113 

Cleave,  Boxwood  Splitting,  13 


i58 


INDEX. 


Cleave  for  Peeling  Osiers,  10 

,  Splitting,  Making  Skeins  with, 

13,  14,  95-97 

Cleaving  Wood  for  Trug  Baskets,  140 
Cleaving-axe,  141 
Coal  Basket,  144 
Cob,  49-54 

Border  for,  53 

Bottom  of,  49-51 

Laying  Slarth  for,  49-51 

Slewing  for,  50,  53 

Stoking  Bottom  of,  51 

Upsetting  Stakes  of,  51,  52 

White  Randed,  54 

Commander,  9 

Corner    Posts,    Elbow-chair,    84-86, 
92,  93 

, ,  Bordering  Round,  84 

, ,  Plaiting  over,  97 

Crab  and  Lobster  Pot,  151 
Cradle,  Doll's,  124,  146 
Cramming,  45 

Damping  Osiers,  12 
Doctor's  Basket,  104-111 

,  Border  on,  104-106 

,  Bottom  of,  104 

,  Bow  for,  110,  111 

,  Bridge  on,  106 

,  Flap  Lids  of,  106 

,  Handle  for,  110,  111 

,  Lapping  Handle  of,  110 

,  Staples  for,  111 

• ,  Twist  or  Band  on,  109 

,  Tying  on  Lids  of,  109 

,  Upsetting,  105 

-,  Wale  on,  105 

Doll's  Bedstead,  129 

• Cradle,  124,  146 

Garden  Chair,  122 

Plain  Chair,  129,  130 

Round  Chair,  123 

Sofa,  129 

Table,  124-126 

Drawing-knife,  132 
Draw-shave,  132 

Edging  (see  also  Border) 

,  Rope,  25 

,  Trellis-work,  21 

Eel  Traps,  150,  151 
Elbow-chair,  74-97 

,  Back  of,  86-88 

,  Bordering  Foot  Rim  of,  S3 

, round  Corner  Post  of,  84 

,  Bow  for,  74 

,  By-staking,  88 

,  Corner  Posts  of,  84-86,  91,  93 

,  "Fetching,"  80-83,  88-92 

,  Foot  of,  77 

,  Height  of,  77 

,  Lapping  Bow  of,  74 

- — -,  Open-work  on,  80 

,  Plaited  Border  on,  93  94 


Elbow-chair,  Plaiting    Corner  Post* 
of,  97 

,  Seat  of,  76,  77 

,  Skeins  for  Posts  of,  95-97 

,  Staking,  74,  75,  78 

,  Upsetting,  79 

,  Weaving  on,  74-76 

Fancy  (see  also  Doll's) 

Basket,  Binding,  116 

—  Lid,  117 

Furniture,  122-126,  129,  14 

Madeira  Basket,  130,  131 

Oblong  Baskets,  117-121 

Oval  Basket,  24,  122 

Round  Basket,  16-22 

Rubbish  Basket,  112,  113 

Square  Baskets,  117-121 

Feeding  Basket,  143,  144 
Feet  of  Trug  Basket,  141 
"Fetching"  on  Elbow-chair,  80-S3,> 

88-92 

Fire-screen,  126,  127 
Flap  Lids  on  Doctor's  Basket,  106 
Flat  Basket  (see  Fruit  Basket) 

Iron,  10,  30 

Pulp  or  Insides,  113 

Flower-pots,  146 

Foot  Rim  of  Elbow-chair,  77 

Grocer's  Basket,  45 

Fowls,  Round  Basket  for,  149,  150 
Fruit  Basket,  64-73 

,  Border  on,  68,  69 

,  Bottom  of,  64 

,  Bow  for  Lid  of,  69-72 

,  Handles  on,  66,  67 

— ,  Lid  of,  70-73 

,  Pairing  off  in  making,  68 

,  Tying  on  Lid  of,  72,  73 

— ,  Upsetting  Sides  of,  64-66 

-,  Weaving  on,  66 

Furniture,  Doll's,  122-126,  129,  146 

Garden  Chair,  Doll's,  122 
Grease-horn,  32 
Green  Rush  Plait,  113 
Grocer's  Basket,  27-48 

,  Beginning,  28 

,  Bordering  on,  41-43 

,  Bottom  of,  28-30 

,  Bow  Handle  of,  46,  47 

,  Foot  Rim  on,  45 

,  Hooping  Stakes  of,  33,  34 

,  Lapping  Handle  of,  47 

,  Picking,  45 

— ,  Randing  on,  37-40 
,  Stakes  for,  31 

,  Staking  Bottom  of,  31-34 

,  Strainers  fur,  38 

,  Upsetting  Rim  Stakes  of,  46- 

, Sides  of,  34-37 

,  Wale  on,  40,  41 

,  Weaving  on,  3C,  37-40 

Hampers.  Handles  for.  67 


INDEX. 


Hand-guards,  Single-stick,  151-152 
Handles  on  Bottle-casings,  102 

Doctor's  Baskets,  110,  111 

,  Fancy,  120 

on  Flat  Fruit  Baskets,  60,  67 

Grocer's  Baskets,  46,  47 

Hampers,  67 

,  Lapping,  47 

on  Oval  Linen  Basket,  62,  63 

Round  Baskets,  26 

. Trug  Baskets,  139 

Hawker's  Oval  Basket,  147-149 
Hooping  Stakes,  33,  34 
Horn,  Grease,  32 
Horse,  Shaving,  132-134 

Insides  or  Flat  Pulp,  113 
Iron  Commander,  9 
,  Flat,  10,  30 

Jar-casing  (see  Bottle-casing) 
Joints  in  Weaving,  18 

Knife,  Drawing,  132 

,  Picking,  9 

, ,  Sharpening,  45 

,  Shop,  9 

,  Trimming,  9 

Lacing  Strawberry  Punnet,  156 
Ladies'  Work  Baskets,  144,  145 
Lapping  Bow  of  Elbow-chair,  74 

Handles,  47 

Handle  of  Doctor's  Basket,  110 

Lids  on  Doctor's  Basket,  106 

Fancy  Baskets,  117 

Flat  Fruit  Baskets,  TO-73 

L;nen  Basket,  55-63 

,  Border  on,  62 

,  Bottom  of,  55-58 

,  Handles  on,  62-63 

,  Handing  on,  61 

-,  Slarth  for,  55-58 

,  Staking  Bottom  of,  59 

,  Upsetting  Sides  of,  59,  60 

.  Wale  on,  61 

Lobster  Pot,  151 

Madeiia  Op"n-work  Basket,  130,  131 
Mahogany  Stain  for  Baskets,  15 
Measure,  Yard,  10 
Materials,  15,  113,  116,  140 

Newspaper  Rack,  127-129 

Oblong  Fancy  Baskets,  117-121 

,  Binding  Handles  of, 

120 

,  Handles  for,  120 

,  Weaving  on,  119.  120 

Open-work  Basket,  Madeira,  130,  131 

or  Elbow-chair,  80 

Open-work  Patteuis,  113,  114 


Open-work,  Crossed,  114 
Osiers,  Boiling,  13 

for  Buff-coloured  Chairs,  13 

Cleave  for  Peeling,  10 

Splitting,  13 

Damping,  11 

Making  Skeins  from,  13,  14,  97 

Obtaining,  10 

Peeling.  10,  1) 

Shears  for  Cutting,  9,  10 

Splitting,  95 
Oval  Basket,  55-«3 

,  Border  on,  62 

-,  Bottom  of,  55-58 

,  Handles  on,  62,  63 

,  Hawker's,  147-149 

,  Randing  on,  61 

,  Repairing,  152-155 

,  Slarth  tor,  55-58 

,  Staking  Bottom  of,  59 

,  Upsetting  Sides  of,  59,  60 

,  Wale  on,  61 

Fancy  Basket,  24 

Pairing-off  in  making  Flat  Basket,  68 
Paper  Rack,  127-129 
Parcel-post  Baskets,  145,  146 
Peeling  Osiers,  10,  11 
Picking  Grocer's  Basket,  45 
Picking-knife,  9 

.  Sharpening,  45 

Pink-tie,  116 

Plait,  Green  Rush,  113 

on  Madeira  Basket,  131 

,  Straw  Woven,  113 

Plaited  Border,  93,  94 

-Chip,  113 

Posts,  Elbow-chair,  84-86,  92,  93 

, ,  Bordering  round,  84 

, ,  Plaiting  over  97 

Pot,  Crab  and  Lobster,  151 

,  Eel,  150,  151 

Pulp,  Flat,  113 
Punnet,  Strawberry,  156 

Rack,  Paper,  127-129 
Handed  Cobs,  54 
Randing  (see  also  Weaving) 

on  Grocer's  Basket,  37-40 

Oval  Linen  Basket,  61 

Repairing  Baskets,  152-155 
Rim,  Foot,  of  Elbow-chair,  77 

, , Grocer's  Basket,  4u 

Stakes,  Upsetting,  46 

- —  for  Trug  Basket,  139 
Rope  Edging,  25 
Round  Basket,  49-54 

,  Border  for,  53 

,  Bottom  of,  49-51 

,  Laying  Slarth  for,  49-51 

for  Show  Fowls,  149,  150 

,  Slewing  for,  50,  53 

,  Staking  Bottom  of,  51 

,  Upsetting  Stakes  of,  51,  52 


i6o 


INDEX. 


Round  Chair,  Doll's,  123 

Cob  (see  Cob) 

Fancy  Basket,  16-22 

'  Rubbish  Basket,  112,  113 

,  Weaving  on,  112,  113 

Rush  Plait,  Green,  113 

Screen,  Fire,  126,  127 
Screw-block,  9 

,  Using,  27,  28 

Seat  of  Elbow-chair,  76,  77 
Sharpening  Picking-knife,  46 
Shave,  13 

,  Draw,  132 

,  Upright,  14 

Shaving-brake,  135 

Shaving-horse,  132-134 

Shears,  9,  10 

Shop  Knife,  9 

Single-stick  Hand-guards,  151-152 

Skeins,  Making,  13, 14,  95-97 

Slarth  for  Oval  Linen  Basket,  55-58 

Hound  Basket,  49-51 

Slewing,  50,  53 

• Basket-casing,  100,  101,  103 

Sofa,  Doll's,  129 
Splitting  Osiers,  95 

,  Cleave  for,  13 

Square  Basket,  Grocer's  (see  Grocer's) 

— — -,  Repairing,  152-155 

Fancy  Baskets,  117-121 

,  Binding  Handles  of,  120 

— ,  Handles  for,  120 
—  • — -,  Weaving  on,  119,  120 
Stable  Basket,  143,  144 
Stains  for  Baskets,  16 
Stakes  for  Grocer's  Basket,  81 

— ,  Hooping,  33,  34 
Staking  Bottom  of  Grocer's  Basket, 
31-34 

Oval  Linen  Basket,  59 

Round  Basket,  51 

Elbow-chair,  74,  75,  78 

Staples,  111 
Steam  Trough,  135-138 
Steaming  Wood,  135-138 
Strainers,  38 
Strawberry  Punnet,  156 
Straw-woven  Plait,  113 
Sussex  Trug  Baskets,  132-146  (see  also 
Tmg  Baskets) 

Table,  Doll's,  124-126 

Tap  Opening  in  Bottle  Casing,  101 

Tools,  9-15,  132-135,  141 

Trap,  Crab  and  Lobster,  151 

,  Eel,  150, 151 

Tray,  Butcher's,  146 
Trellis-work  Edging,  21 
Trimming-knife,  9 
Trough,  Steam,  135-138 
Trug  Baskets,  132-140 
,  Boards  for  140 


Trug  Baskets,  Bottoms  of,  140 

,  Caul,  143 

,  Cleaving  Wood  for,  140 

,  Cleaving-axe  for  making,  141 

— ,  Coal,  144 

,  Doll's  Cradle,  146 

,  Drawing-knife  for  making, 

132 

-,  Feeding,  143,  144 

— ,  Feet  for,  141 

,  Flower-pot,  146 

— ,  Handles  for,  139 
— ,  Ladies'  Work,  144,  145 
— — ,  Parcel-post,  145,  146 
— ,  Putting  together,  139,  140 

,  Rims  for,  139 

,  Shaving-brake  for  making, 

135 

,  Shaving-horse  for  making, 

132-134 

,  Stable,  143, 144 

,  Steaming  Wood  for,  135-138 

— ,  Tools  for  making,  132-135, 
141 
— -,  Walking-stick,  141-143 

,  Wood,  143 

Twist  on  Doctor's  Basket,  109 

Tying-in  Band,  154 

Tying-on  Lids  of  Doctor's  Baskets,  109 

Flat  Fruit  Baskets,  72, 

73 

Upright  Shave,  14 
Upsetting  Bottle-casing,  100 

— -  Doctor's  Basket,  105 

Elbow-chair,  79 

Fruit  Basket,  64-66 

Grocer's  Basket,  34-37 

Oval  Linen  Basket,  59,  CO 

Rim  Stakes,  46 

—  Round  Basket,  51,  52 

—  Square  Basket,  34-37 

Wale  on  Doctor's  Basket,  105 

Grocer's  Basket,  40,  41 

• Hawker's  Basket,  147 

Oval  Linen  Basket,  61 

Walking-stick  Trug  Basket,  141-143 
Weaving  (see  also  Handing) 

on  Elbow-chair,  74-76 

Flat  Fruit  Basket,  66 

Hawker's  Basket,  147 

,  Joints  in,  18 

,  Simple,  30 

•  on  Square  Fancy  Baskets,  119, 120 

Wetting  Osiers,  12 

Wicker  Elbow-chair  (see  Elbow-chair) 

Wood  Basket,  143 

Work  Baskets,  Ladies',  144,  145 

Work-boards,  14 

Yard-measure,  10 
Zig-zag  Pattern,  115 


PRINTED  BY  CASSBLL  &  COMPANY,  LIMITED,  LDDOATB  HILL,  LONDON,  E.G. 
15.212 


HANDICRAFT  SERIES  (continued). 

Electro-  Plating.     With  Numerous  Engravings  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — introduction.  Tanks,  Vats,  and  other  Apparatus.  Batteries, 
Dynamos,  and  Electrical  Accessories.  Appliances  for  Preparing  and  Finishing 
Work.  Silver-Plating,  Copper-Plating.  Gold-Plating.  Nickel-plating  and 
Cycle- Plating,  1  inishing  Electro-Plated  Goods.  Electro-Plating  with  Various 
Metals  and  Alloys.  Index. 

Clay  Modelling  and  Plaster  Casting.    With  153  Engravings  and 

Diagrams. 

Violins  and  Other  Stringed  Instruments.    With  about  180 

Illustrations. 

Contents. — Materials  and  Tools  for  Violin  Making.  Violin  Moulds.  Violin 
Making.  Varnishing  and  Finishing  Violins.  Double  Bass  and  a  Violoncello. 
Japanese  One-string  Violin.  Mandolin  Making.  Guitar  Making.  Banjo 
Making.  Zither  Making  Dulcimer  Making.  Index. 

Glass  Writing,  Embossing,  and  Fascia  Work.    (Including 

the  Making  and  Fixing  of  Wood  Letters  and  Illuminated  Signs.)     With 

129  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Plain  Lettering  and  Simple  Tablets.  Gold  Lettering.  Blocked 
Letters.  Stencil  Cutting.  Gold  Etching.  Embossing.  French  or  Treble 
Embossing.  Incised  Fascias,  Stall-plates,  and  Grained  Background.  Letters 
in  Perspective  ;  Spacing  Letters.  Arrangement  of  Wording  and  Colors.  Wood 
Letters  Illuminated  Signs.  Temporary  Signs  for  Windows.  Imitation 
Inlaid  Signs.  Imitation  Mosaic  Signs.  Specimen  Alphabets.  Index. 

Photographic  Chemistry.     With  31  Engravings  and  Dkgrams. 

Photographic  Studios  and  Dark   Rooms.     With  180  Illus- 
trations. 

Contents. — Planning  Studios.  Building  Studios.  Portable  and  Temporary 
Studios.  Studios  Improvised  from  Greenhouses,  Dwelling  Rooms,  etc. 
Lighting  of  Studios.  Backgrounds.  Scenic  Accessories.  Dark-Rooms.  Portable 
Dark-Rooms.  Dark-Room  Fittings.  Portable  Dark  Tent.  Index. 

Motor   Bicycle   Building.     With  137  Illustrations  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Frame  for  Motor  Bicycle.  Patterns  for  Frame  Castings.  Build- 
ing Frame  from  Castings.  Making  3i  H.  P.  Petrol  Motor.  Spray  Carburettor 
for  3^  H.  P.  Motor.  Ignition  Coils  for  Motor  Cycles.  Light-weight  Petrol 
Motor  for  Attachment  to  Roadster  Bicycle.  Spray  Carburettor  for  Light- 
weight Motor.  Index. 

Rustic  Carpentry.    With  172  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Light  Rustic  Work,  Flower  Stands,  Vases,  etc.  Tables,  Chairs 
and  Seats.  Gates  and  Fences.  Rosery  Work,  Porch,  Swing  Canopy  Aviary, 
Footbridges  Verandahs.  Tool  Houses,  Garden  Shelters,  etc.  Summer  Houses, 
Dovecot.  Index. 

Pumps  and    Rams!    Their  Action   and   Construction. 

With  171  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Suction  Pumps  and  Lift  Pumps.  Making  Simple  Suction  Pumps. 
Pump  Cup  Leathers,  Pump  Valves,  Ram  or  Plunger  Pumps.  Making  Bucket 
and  Plunger  Pump.  Construction  of  Plumbers'  Force  Pump,  Wooden  Pumps, 
Small  Pumps  for  Special  Purposes,  Centrifugal  Pumps,  Air  Lift,  Mammoth, 
and  Pulsometer  Pumps,  Hydraulic  Rams.  Index. 
Domestic  Jobbing.  With  107  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Cutlery  Grinding,  Sharpening  and  Repairing.     Simple  Soldering 
and  Brazing.     China  Riveting  and  Repairing.     Chair  Caning,  Furniture  Re-. 
pairing,  Glazing  Windows,  Umbrella  Making  and  Repairing.     Index. 
Tinplate  Work.     With  280  Illustrations  and  Diagrams. 

Contents. — Tinmen's  Tools,  Appliances  and  Materials.  Elementary  Ex- 
amples in  Tinplate.  Hollowing  Tinplate.  Simple  Round  Articles  in  Tinplate. 
Saucepan  Making.  Square  and  Oval  Kettle  Making.  Oil  Cooking  Stove. 
Set  of  Workshop  Oil  Cans.  Fancy  Paste  Cutters.  Lamps  and  Lanterns. 
Index. 

Other  Volumes  in  Preparation. 
DAVID  McKAY,  Publisher,  604-608  South  Washington  Square,  Philadelphia. 


TECHNICAL  INSTRUCTION. 

Important  New  Series  of  Practical  Volumes.  Edited  by  PAUL 
N.  HASLUCK.  With  numerous  Illustrations  in  the  Text. 
Each  book  contains  about  1 60  pages,  crown  8vo.  Cloth, 
$l.oo  each,  postpaid. 

Practical  Draughtsmen's  Work.    With 226 illustrations. 

Contents. — Drawing  Boards.  Paper  and  Mounting.  Draughtsmen's  Instru- 
ments. Drawing  Straight  Lines.  Drawing  Circular  Lines.  Elliptical  Curves. 
Projection.  Back  Lining  Drawings.  Scale  Drawings  and  Maps.  Colouring 
Drawings.  Making  a  Drawing.  Index. 

Practical  Gasfitting.    With  120  Illustrations. 

Contents  — How  Coal  Gas  is  Made.  Coal  Gas  from  the  Retort  to  the  Gas 
Holder.  Gas  Supply  from  Gas  Holder  to  Meter.  Laying  the  Gas  Pipe  in  the 
House.  Gas  Meters.  Gas  Burners.  Incandescent  Lights.  Gas  Fittings  in 
Workshops  and  Theatres.  Gas  Fittings  for  Festival  Illuminations.  Gas  Fires 
and  Cooking  Stoves.  Index. 

Practical  Staircase  Joinery.    With  215  illustrations. 

Contents. — Introduction  :  Explanation  of  Terms.  Simple  Form  of  Staircase 
— Housed  String  Stair  :  Measuring,  Planning,  and  Setting  Out.  Two-flight 
Staircase.  Staircase  with  Winders  at  Bottom.  Staircase  with  Winders  at  Top 
and  Bottom.  Staircase  with  Half-space  of  Winders.  Staircase  over  an  Oblique 
Plan.  Staircase  with  Open  or  Cut  Strings.  Cut  String  Staircase  with  Brackets. 
Open  String  Staircase  with  Bull-nose  Step.  Geometrical  Staircases.  Winding 
Staircases.  Ships'  Staircases.  Index. 

Practical  Metal  Plate  Work.    With 247 illustrations. 

Contents. — Materials  used  in  Metal  Plate  Work.  Geometrical  Construction 
of  Plane  Figures.  Geometrical  Construction  and  Development  of  Solid 
Figures.  Tools  and  Appliances  used  in  Metal  Plate  Work.  Soldering  and 
Brazing.  Tinning.  Re-tinning  and  Galvanising.  Examples  of  Practical 
Metal  Plate  Work.  Examples  of  Practical  Pattern  Drawing.  Index. 

Practical  Graining  and  Marbling.    With  79  illustrations. 

Contents. — Graining:  Introduction,  Tools,  and  Mechanical  Aids.  Graining 
Grounds  and  Graining  Colors.  Oak  Graining  in  Oil.  Oak  Graining  in  Spirit 
and  Water  Colours.  Pollard  Oak  and  Knotted  Oak  Graining.  Maple  Graining 
Mahogany  and  Pitch-pine  Graining.  Walnut  Graining.  Fancy  Wood  Grain- 
ing. Furniture  Graining  Imitating  Woods  by  Staining.  Imitating  Inlaid 
Woods.  Marbling :  Introduction,  Tools,  and  Materials.  Imitating  Varieties 
of  Marble.  Index. 

Painters'    Oils     Colors  and   Varnishes.     With    Numerous 

Illustrations. 

Contents. — Painters'  Oils.  Color  and  Pigments.  White  Pigments.  Blue 
Pigments.  Chrome  Pigments.  Lake  Pigments.  Green  Pigments.  Red  Pig- 
ments. Brown  and  Black  Pigments.  Yellow  and  Orange  Pigments  Bronze 
Colors.  Driers.  Paint  Grinding  and  Mixing.  Gums,  Oils,  and  Solvents  for 
Varnishes.  Varnish  Manufacture.  Index. 

Practical  Plumbers'  Work.    With  298  illustrations. 

Contents. — Materials  and  Tools  Used.  Solder  and  How  to  Make  It.  Sheet 
Lead  Working.  Pipe  Bending.  Pipe  Jointing.  Lead  Burning.  Lead-Work 
on  Roofs.  Index. 

Practical  Pattern  Making.    With  295  Illustrations. 

Contents.  —  Foundry  Patterns  and  Foundry  Practice.  Jointing-up  Patterns. 
Finishing  Patterns.  Circular  Patterns.  Making  Core  Boxes.  Boring  Holes 
in  Castings.  Patterns  and  Moulds  for  Iron  Columns.  Steam-Engine  Cylinder 
Patterns  and  Core  Boxes.  Worm  Wheel  Pattern.  Lathe  Bed  Patterns. 
Head  Stock  and  Poppet*  Patterns.  Slide-rest  Patterns.  Valve  Patterns  and 
Core  Boxes.  Index. 

Practical  Handrailing.    vvith  144  illustrations. 

Contents. — l^unciple^  ot  riandrailing.  Definition  of  Terms.  Geometrical 
Drawing,  ijimple  Handrails.  Wreathed  Handrails  on  the  Cylindrical  System. 
The  Uses  of  Models  Obtaining  Tangents  and  Bevels.  Face  Moulds  •  their 
Construction  and  Use.  Twisting  the  Wreath.  Completing  the  Handrail 
Orthogonal  or  Right-angle  System  of  Setting  Wreathed  Handrails.  Handrails 
lor  btone  Stairs.  Setting  out  Scrolls  for  Handrails.  Setting  out  Moulded 
Caps.  Intersecting  Handrails  without  Basements.  Index. 


TECHNICAL  IN& 

Practical  Brickwork.    With  368  Illustrations. 

Contents. —  Lnglisn  and  Flemish  Bonds.  Garden  and  Boundary  Walls. 
Bonds  for  Square  Angles.  Excavations,  Foundations,  and  Footings.  Junctions 
of  Cross  Walls.  Reveals,  Piers.  Angles  and  other  Bonds.  Jointing  and 
Pointing.  Damp-proof  Courses  and  Construction.  Hollow  or  Cavity  Walls. 
Chimneys  and  Fireplaces.  Gauged  Work  and  Arches.  Niches  and  Domes. 
Oriel  Windows. 

Practical  Painters'  Work.     With  Numerous  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Objects,  Principles  and  Processes  of  Painting.  Painters'  Tools 
and  Appliances.  Materials  used  by  Painters.  Preparing  Surfaces  for  Paint- 
ii  g,  Painting  Woodwork,  Painting  Ironwork,  Painting  Stucco  or  Plaster; 
Distempering  and  Whitewashing  Color  Combination.  House  Painting.  Varnish 
and  Varnishing.  Stains  and  Staining.  Estimating  and  Measuring  Painters' 
Work.  Index. 

Textile    Fabrics   and    Their    Preparation   for    Dyeing. 

With  Numerous  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Cotton.  Flax,  Jute,  and  China  Grass.  Wool.  Silk.  Cotton 
Bleaching.  Linen  Bleaching.  Mercerising.  Wool  Scouring  and  Bleaching, 
Scouring  and  Bleaching  Silk.  Water.  About  Dyeing.  Index. 

Coloring    Matters   for    Dyeing   Textiles.     With  Numerous 

Illustrations. 

Contents. — Indigo  Coloring  Matters.  Logwood  Coloring  Matters.  Natural 
Red  and  Yellow  Coloring  Matters.  Aniline  Coloring  Matters.  Azo  Coloring 
Matters.  Anthracene  Coloring  Matters.  Chrome  Yellow,  Iron  Buff,  Man- 

finese   Brown,  Prussian   Blue,  Method   of  Devising  Experiments  in  Dyeing, 
stimation  of  the  Value  of  Coloring  Matters.     Index. 

Sanitary  Construction  in  Building.    With  131  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Introductory.  Soils,  Subsoils,  and  Sites.  Materials  of  Construc- 
tion. Footings,  Foundations,  and  Damp-proof  Courses.  Stability  of  Walls. 
Roofs.  Floors,  Hearths,  and  Staircases.  Air  Space  and  Ventilation.  A 
Typical  Dwelling.  Index. 

Iron!   Its  Sources,  Properties,  and  Manufacture.    With 

Numerous  Illustrations. 

Contents. — Introductory;  Terms  Explained.  Refractory  Materials,  Crucibles, 
etc.  Ores  of  Iron.  Metallurgical  Chemistry  of  Iron.  Cast  Iron  or  Pig  Iron. 
Preparation  of  the  Ores.  Changes  in  the  Blast  Furnace.  Blast  Furnace. 
Air  Supply.  Blowing  Engines  Workjng  the  Blast  Furnace.  By-products. 
Malleable  or  Wrought  Iron.  Production  of  Malleable  Iron.  Preparation  of 
Malleable  Iron  in  Open  Hearths.  Puddling.  Refining  Pig  Iron  and  Dry 
Puddling.  Forge  Machinery.  Iron-rolling  Mill.  Index. 

Steel '.     Its  Varieties,    Properties,  and    Manufacture. 

With  132  Engravings  and  Diagrams.  BY  WILLIAM  HENRY  GREENWOOD. 

Revised  and  Rewritten  by  A.  HUMBOLDT  SEXTON. 

Contents. — Steel:  Its  Properties  and  Manufacture.  The  Bessemer  Process. 
The  Basic  Bessemer  Process.  Modifications  of  the  Bessemer  Process.  Gas 
Producers  and  the  Siemens  Furnace.  The  Siemens  or  Open-hearth  Steel 
Process.  The  Basic  Open-hearth  Process.  Modifications  of  the  Open-hearth 
Process.  Steel  Works  Appliances.  The  Cementation  and  Monor  Steel  Pro- 
cesses. Casting  Steel.  Forging  and  Rolling  Steel.  Microscopic  Structure  of 
Steel.  Heat  Treatment  of  Steel.  Theory  of  Steel.  Testing  Steel.  Specifica- 
tions of  Steel  for  Various  Purposes.  Alloy  Steels.  Index. 

Other  New  Volumes  in  Preparation. 

DAVID  McKAY,  Publisher,  604-608  South  Washington  Square,  Philadelphia. 


